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Turbo System Tech Turbos, Intercooling, Boost Control, Wastegates, etc.

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Old 07-26-2008, 08:12 PM   #1 (permalink)
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2G-specific Supra SMIC Install Quick Guide

I know this topic has been pretty thoroughly covered, but I just wanted to share my install of the MKIV Supra SMIC on a 2G Talon. The install took a couple nights as we had to wait until the next day to get parts needed along the way.

First off, I recommend removing the bumper for this install. It makes things a lot easier and you can work a bit more on proper fitment and actually using brackets to retain the SMIC, as opposed to zip ties, or whatever you might rely on.



Access is greatly improved with the bumper off. The stock SMIC is pretty pitiful in comparison.



First off, the goal was to mount the intercooler solid and relatively "hack-free." You might argue on how much that was accomplished, and go right ahead as feedback is welcome.

We wanted to mount the intercooler flush and perpendicular to the frame, while still retaining the side market and not creating a "power bulge" in the bumper. The goal was also to mount it so it did not hang below the bumper. Needless to say, it is a tight fit, and 2.5 of those goals were accomplished.

First off, once you get the intercooler about where you want to mount it, start cutting wildly and randomly. The top hole was cut once for the inlet, but turned out to be a little off so yes, it was opened up a bit more, but not a whole lot, and I think it turned out pretty good. Tools recommended are a good die grinder and reciprocating saw (small air type works best).



As you can see this does move the outlet over significantly, some carressing of the MAF is required, and you may have noticed I have already relocated the fuse box for my ghetto upper intake pipe.

To keep the intercooler mounted at a right angle to the frame we notched the frame rail so the end tank sits inside, therefore the side of the tank sits flush with the frame rail.





Once you have it where you want it, I strongly recommend building some brackets to retain it. We used a few strips of aluminum, which ETS kindly provided, and bent, for free. You can see the three mounting points we used in the following photos.







Due to the orientation of the inlet when the SMIC is mounted flush to the frame, we had to use a 45 degree coupler. We retained the stock lower intercooler pipe coming off the J-pipe and with some work it worked well. I would recommend a hard pipe, which is probably what I'll end up doing in the near future. To connect the 2.5" pipe to the stock tube we used a 2" to 2.5" exhaust adapter. You can get the exhaust adapter at any auto parts store.



We originally were going to use an adapter for the upper pipe, but found a better solution by using a 45 degree coupler and taking the stock adapter ring from the T25 turbo and puting it over the 2.25" upper intercooler pipe. This was cleaner and allowed more room for the intake filter.



I should mention that to get the tank to mount flush with the frame rail you need to grind down the fin. Also, the fin had to be clearanced on the outside to clear the side marker mount.



Sadly, with the tank mounted so high, the end thank sits directly where the side marker is. The temporary solution was to "clearance" the side market, which means more or less cutting the back off and having the tank sit somewhat inside it. I will be ordering some smoked side markers to modify with LEDs to remedy this situation, as the profile can be very low. I will post that up when I get a chance to do it.

The intercooler does not hang down at all below the bumper, and I think all-in-all it turned out very clean.





So far I'm pretty impressed, I have not had a chance to do any tuning from the prior setup, but with this and the meth injection I think it should run pretty well. Its only flowing 32-34lbs/min at the moment but it feels much stronger on the top end, and the knock is completely gone. Thanks for looking.

Last edited by VETDRMS : 07-26-2008 at 08:16 PM. Reason: Grammar
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Old 07-26-2008, 08:30 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Of course I reply to this thread.

I see no air duct currently being utilized. This is an absolute must.

I few weeks ago I also gave in to cutting up the hole to allow for more room to get everything to fit right. Will post up pictures later somewhere on this site. Came out very decent. I believe you forgot to mention the reason for using a die grinder. When using a sawzall (or the like), the remaining edges are sharp. Not good news for couplers. Thus you must soften the edges to help prevent any unnecessary wear-n-tear.

Even with the cutting, I never had to worry about the side marker or inside bumper.


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Old 07-26-2008, 08:42 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Hey Unknown,

Sorry if I haven't been on the forums for a while, so i'm not sure what "Of course I reply to this thread" is referring to [nevermind , think after reading through it several times I would have noticed who posted the "long-version"] , but Yes, right now it is just open-agreed. The bumper is pretty easy to pull, I haven't quite yet decided on how I want to build the cowl. I should have added a note to that affect, but thanks for pointing it out. I do not have the stock Supra cowl to modify.

I did kill one straight coupler on test fitting without deburring the edges. A sawz-all would probably be a pretty bad thing to use, I'm using a fine toothed high speed reciprocating air saw.
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Old 07-28-2008, 05:28 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I just did this install today and to tell you the truth it was very simple...With the greddy intercooler pipes its a straight bolt on, no kidding...











My intercooler is safley secured, doesn't hang lower than the bumper, doesn't bulge the bumper out, i didn't need to cut along the sidemarker, no ghetto rigging it and i didn't need to rearange anything under my hood. I also used the supra cowl and fit fine...but best of all, it pulls like a bat out of hell!
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Old 08-13-2008, 04:35 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I just installed the supra sidemount today. As hypnoticpimp said with hard pipes this is basically a bolt it affair. I did not have to cut anything. I have an RRE UICP and RRE 16g kit for the lower pipes. These lined up pretty well once I turned the lower pipe a bit towards the front. I had previously worried if I could fit this all together around my automatic transmission but it seemed to go together well. I didn't need anything but a 1 foot section of 2.5 inch rubber hose which clamped down to my 2.25 inch pipes very well. I was disappointed with the quality of my RRE pipes in that when I put just a little pressure on the nipple for the lower pipe it flexed enough that the welds now leak and this is the second pipe I've had from them that couldn't hold air at the welds.

First impressions are that my car is noticeably quicker and I gained about 1psi at the manifold after the install so I had to turn down the boost controller. This may well be the best $70 I've spent on my car.
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Old 08-13-2008, 05:09 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I bought a supra ic a few months back, after seeing this post, I think it's time to put that sucker on....
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Old 08-14-2008, 08:17 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I should also mention that I have a true K&N FIPK and stock location fusebox both of which are completely unobstructed. My bottom endtank sticks down below the bumper about a 1/4 inch and my supra air cowl does not completely surround the opening from my bumper but there is enough space and it is close enough that in a couple days when I have time again I can use aluminum tape and 200mph tape to make a workable fix. Nowhere does the cowl obstruct any incoming air. Also I should say thanks to dsmunknown because I referenced his guide a ton. Thanks to the people in this thread too. I do not have any hood problems like dsmunknown mentions but I have a forge bov so that might have something to do with it.
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