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"11 "- Exhaust Mani to Turbo Bolts?

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Peepers

20+ Year Contributor
120
4
Nov 2, 2002
Toronto, ON, Canada
What do you guys make of this?

A couple of years ago I blew up my T25. I upgraded to an SBR exhaust manifold and EVOIII 16G. I did the recommended mod where one installs 4 bolts (exhaust manifold to turbo) instead of the OEM 3 bolts and 1 nut. I bought all brand new hardware from the dealer when I did this swap. I may have put 10K on the car since all this work was done – never winter driven - all hardware looks brand new

This week I start to install my new FP exhaust manifold. I warm the car to operating temperature to help with the removal of the 4 bolts and one snaps - 1/4" from the end – go figure :mad:. So I spend most of my evening drilling out this broken bolt only to get almost there (hole big enough to fit the eazy-out) and the easy-out snaps:mad: :mad: !! Wow, this bolt was tight!! So now I have an eazy-out acting like a wedge - great!! All this work was done with the turbo still on the car. So I pull the turbo hot side and 02 housing off and go see my neighbor who does HVAC. He pulls out the torch to heat things up. We get everything red hot with vicegrips on the exposed threads and this bolt wasn’t going anywhere. We did it three times and nothing. So finally he cuts / blasts out the remaining bolt and I'm left to retap the hole.

Now here’s the interesting thing. 3 out of the 4 bolts are stamped "11". One is not. Guess which one broke – you got it – the non "11" . All these were OEM right from Markham Mitsubishi.

Anyone come across this before?

Also, should I be worried about my newly taped hole M10X125?
 

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That's funny. Last time I removed my turbo I noticed the exact same thing. 3 bolts with the "11" and one without. Two of them inluding the one without the "11" had damaged threads and were replaced with new oem ones. Both of the new ones do have the "11". Interestingly, the one without the "11" came out the most damaged (due to a deformed SS gasket). The one without the "11" is on the right in the closeup of the threads. Could just be a coincidence.(??)
 

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Romeen, I know exactly what you're referring to about the gasket and how it can eat the threads. At least your bolt came loose. Mine pretty much became one with the turbo housing. I think that Mistu might have gotten cheap on the bolts (to save costs?) not realizing that a lower grade bolt can cause so much problems? I hope the new bolts 2X M10X81 I have on order with my dealer will come in stamped "11" and the two smaller M10X31 (O2 housing bolts) don't cause me any problems down the road??
 
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Get another (11) bolt and grease all your bolts before installing them

Huh, do you mean grease as in axle grease or bearing grease?

Sometimes it is a good idea to use high temp nickel based anticease that is pretty much a must for installations like that. It is used mostly in aircraft industry as I understand but you can get a can by dilligently shopping around. Autozone stuff doesn't cut it from my experience.
 
Hightemp anti seize is great, make sure you get the copper (orange) kind. The nickel (silver) almost acts like a thread lock on temps as high as that. Like on the mani to turbo bolts and such.
 
Huh, do you mean grease as in axle grease or bearing grease?

Sometimes it is a good idea to use high temp nickel based anticease that is pretty much a must for installations like that. It is used mostly in aircraft industry as I understand but you can get a can by dilligently shopping around. Autozone stuff doesn't cut it from my experience.

Hightemp anti seize
 
That gasket swells and digs into the bolts causing the threads to get bitched up. Those damn gaskets are most of the problem. Lay it on the flange and you should see where it rubs the bolts. When I quit using those and started using an OEM one, my broken bolt problems stopped.
 
i just replaced mine with ARP bolts and seem to be working good. a little high $, but worth it.
 
Hightemp anti seize is great, make sure you get the copper (orange) kind. The nickel (silver) almost acts like a thread lock on temps as high as that. Like on the mani to turbo bolts and such.

Not all silver colored antiseize is nickel. Some cheapo stuff is aluminum based and that is a no-no for this purpose. Copper one may be good too but I never tried it though.

The point that guys make about the gasket is very valid as well. The bolt holes can be enlarged a bit just to be on the safe side.
 
i just replaced mine with ARP bolts and seem to be working good. a little high $, but worth it.

I've read more than a few posts about the ARP turbo bolts breaking. I hope they work well for you. :)

To anyone else reading this, IMO the oem bolts are the best way to go, and based on the experiences of Peepers and myself the ones with the "11" on them may be harder/better quality.

And yes, I always coat the threads of fasteners exposed to high heat with copper based anti-sieze. Have had good results this way.
 
OK guys, this is just to confirm that part number MD171220 is indeed for and 7cm EVOIII 16G. I just ordered one up from local Canadian dealer ($31.73). A little pricey, but better than those SS gaskets that get cooked over time
 

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Exact same one I got.:thumb:

Did you get the new turbo bolts yet and, if so, do they have the "11"?
 
Yeap. Got all new hardware and they were stamped 11. I only needed two M10X80mm bolts (11) MR187699 but my dealer told me they only come in packs of 4 - go figure? So I have two spares ($18 for two bolts!! :mad:)

The other two I ordered were the O2 housing bolts (MD062961). These are M10X31mm and they're worth more than the M10X80mm. Shorter in length is worh more $$$ - go figure (again LOL) :mad::mad:

Here's the end result
 

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