Which BOV? [Merged 3-8] what bov best bov

[Batgirl]

I am looking at replacing my BOV. I was looking at the Greddy XS, but I seem to be seeing people with Greddy problems aplenty. What BOV do you like? Why?

Also, what is a safe PSI for a stock turbo? I hear rumors that anything beyond 14 will raise hell on the engine.

Thanks for your help!
Batgirl

 

[L2RTSiAWD]

Some people have had Greddy Type-S leak. On a stock t-25 I set it at 15psi. I have a Turboxs RFL. Why? Well it's loud and makes a nice BOV sound like a whip-craking as opposed to a whistle or a sneeze noise that some other BOV's make.

Later,

 

[Batgirl]

What is the price on a Turboxs RFL? Also, anyone answering...can you include the price of your choice for a BOV if you know it? Thanks!

Annie

 

[gstspyder1998]

I have a Greddy Type-S and it works fine ($190.00) But I also want to change my BOV but I can't since I got the Dejon UICP with the Greddy Type-S flange!!!!

 

[L2RTSiAWD]

I got a deal on mine. 225 shipped with a greddy flange.

Later,

 

[logic]

I'm pretty happy with the 1g BOV I'm running right now, and I guarantee I paid a lot less than the cost of a GReddy or TurboXS. But then again, I'm a cheap bastard. ;-)

 

[TURBOSPYDER]

I have the old style BLitz BOV. I heard the new style sucks and cant hold high boost. HKS SUper sequential kinda feels like its made of plastic. If I had a choice, Id probably get the 1st gen BOV or APEX.

 

[GRNDSM]

I just did some extensive research on this topic and Tial came up the winner. At $225, it performs similar to HKS $500 BOV and looks much better:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/cgi-bin/gallery/index.pl?photo=1444

 

[NDgsx]

Leon, the tial can not be recuirculated though can it?

I do not like the greddy type S. It works ok at lower boost levels (10-15psi), but once you raise the boost you start to run into problems. The way their valve is setup all the boost pressure is trying to open the valve. So at higher boost pressures you must tighten the spring to keep the valve closed. Now it is too open at low boost levels (3-5psi) which causes compressor surge during low throtle shifts.

For aftermarket units I like the HKS ssq. It has a different valve design where the boost pressure actually pushes the valve against it's seat, so you have no problems with it opening at higher boost levels. This also means the spring does not need to be as stiff, so you don't run into the low throtle compressor surge problems. You do need to have their special flange welded onto your uicp though.

I wouldn't recomend either for you, just get a 1G bov. They have been proven to hold 22psi or more with the top crushed (I think their is a vfaq) and have no problems at low throtle. They are also very cheap. Definetly your most cost effective choice.


You will probably begin to run lean at more than 14psi. It's not that the engine can't handle it, the problem is you have increased airflow and the amount of fuel has not increased accordingly. This is when you need to look at getting a fuel pump, datalogger, and some type of fuel control.

 

[doug]

Originally posted by Batgirl
What is the price on a Turboxs RFL?

You can get prices on all TurboXS stuff at their website, www.turboxs.com. Also, be aware that the RFL vents to atmosphere. The only TurboXS one that recirculates is the H34. I've heard lots of good stuff about it, so I'm planning on getting that one. In fact, I already have the Dejon Tool UICP that's flanged for it.

J Doug

 

[DMS-WhiteGSX]

I have a 1G bov, but after I put my 16G on, it decided it wants to stay open sometimes, and i have a stalling problem, it almost sounds like a POP instead of the normal woosh.. Could a Big16 at 22psi destroy a bov? It perplexes me.. But my favorite BOV of all time is the old school Blitz SS, man it was awesome, too bad they dont sell it anymore, i'll probably get a turboxs rfl or a greddy type s..

Erm.. I also ran 18psi(with a nice 25psi spike ) on the stock t25, and after two months or so, it took a dump on me.. but it pulled really hard.

 

[GRNDSM]

>Leon, the tial can not be recuirculated though can it?

No, it can not be. But you do not really need to as it does not leak at idle.

>I wouldn't recomend either for you, just get a 1G bov. They have been
>proven to hold 22psi or more with the top crushed (I think their is a
>vfaq) and have no problems at low throtle. They are also very cheap.
>Definetly your most cost effective choice.

I have been running crushed 1g BOV for years, as well as crushing them properly for other people. I am a huge of that valve. However, it has some limitations. It is rather small (28mm) and does not lift all that much.

What does mean? Nothing bad on a “small” turbo (20g and smaller). But once you take a really big turbo, and send 500-600sfms through a 60mm throttle body it becomes a different game once you close it. You are then expecting 28mm valve to vent what was going through 60mm. Which it does not do very well… So you end up with a shock to your turbo and with having it slow down too much between shift. Again, this was not noticeable on my 20G but on my 60-1 Garret, it is clear as day and night! So I took out my 1G BOV and installed this Tial unit. Just compare their flanges side by side:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NewEngDSM/files/GRNMCH/BOV Flange comp.jpg

Which one do you think will slow your turbo down more?

Not enough proof. This is what TurboTrix has to say about it:

http://www.turbotrix.com/parts/tialbov.shtml

>I have a 1G bov, but after I put my 16G on, it decided it wants to stay
>open sometimes, and i have a stalling problem, it almost sounds like a
>POP instead of the normal woosh.. Could a Big16 at 22psi destroy a
>bov?

Not really destroy it but stock 1G BOV will leak at around 20psi. That is why you need to ether crush it or do a “Gus mod” to it (now also done by Dejon).

>Erm.. I also ran 18psi(with a nice 25psi spike ) on the stock t25, and >after two months or so, it took a dump on me.. but it pulled really hard.

This happens all the time. T25 will granade itself with-in weeks if you try to run more than 20 psi of boost on it. And it is not a benign as you might think… Something about T-25’s design that allows bearing fragments enter the engine through the oil return tube. My friend blew two T25’s this way and did not think much of it (they are CHEAP). Two month later he spun his rod bearing on a new dealer block with only 20k miles on it. When we took his engine apart, it was full of turbo bearing fragments and somehow they made their way into the engine bearings

 

[Batgirl]

Thanks to everyone for the very helpful advice. It looks like I have a tough choice to make here.

 

[ProjectGSX]

I have been through a bunch of diffent BOVs. I've used the stock 2G BOV, switched to a stock 1G BOV, used the GReddy Type-S, the TurboXS H-BOV, H-RBV, R-RBV, and the H-RFL.

The 1G BOV is the best bang for the buck. Gets the job done, and you can't argue with the price.

The GReddy valve is more convenient to adjust than the TurboXS valves, but the adjustment has to be a TON more precise which makes it a pain to set. The spring it uses is very short, so a small adjustment can make a big difference. The noise it makes is pretty unique too. I didn't care for the sound though, personally.

The H-RBV is a great stock replacement valve. It vents to intake, adds a bit of noise, a big bit of flash to the engine bay, and can hold quite a bit of boost. It has been pressure tested up to 25psi. Drivability gets bad past that, as you need to set the spring so tense that it requires vacuum assistance to open. This is similar to the Tial BOV.

The R-RBV was given to me as a demo unit. I don't think they ever actually produced them.

The H-BOV is pretty much obsolete. The H-RFL replaces it, for the most part. The size and flow characteristics are just about the same and the price is very similar. The H-BOV is $10 less, and not as loud.

The H-RFL is crazy. It is REALLY loud. Their ads say "If you have to ask, it's too loud for you". I would tend to agree with this. I've opened the BOV at people walking down the street before, and actually had people go airborne they were so startled.

So, if you like to frighten the elder and scare away small animals, go for the RFL. If you want a basic stock replacement, I like the RBV. They both run $250 retail with the install kit. If you are buying a new UIC pipe, Dejon Tool sells one with a TurboXS flange built in, so you can save about $60 by not having to buy the install kit.

Here's a pic of my RFL installed:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[NDgsx]

Originally posted by GRNDSM
[BWhat does mean? Nothing bad on a “small” turbo (20g and smaller). But once you take a really big turbo, and send 500-600sfms through a 60mm throttle body it becomes a different game once you close it. You are then expecting 28mm valve to vent what was going through 60mm. Which it does not do very well… [/B]

I can see that happening. I have never run anything bigger than my TDO5H 20g, so I have no first hand experience there.
Looking at the application here I still think the 1g valve will be fine. I doubt batgirl is shooting for tens.

 

[Batgirl]

NDgsx: You would be right, I am not shooting for 10s. I just really want to use my stock turbo to its fullest without damaging it.

ProjectGSX: Thank you for all the information you provided me. Your product descriptions were very helpful. I don't really want a loud BOV so I think the H-RBV will be my best bet.

Thanks again for helping me with this! Who would you guys look at for a boost controller?

 

[BatmanGSX]

Originally posted by NDgsx
Looking at the application here I still think the 1g valve will be fine.

I agree. I'm going to try taking my modded (not crushed) 1G BOV into the 11s.

 

[dsmtrick]

Originally posted by Batgirl
Thanks again for helping me with this! Who would you guys look at for a boost controller?

Depends on if you want manual or electronic.

I had the Apex AVC-R for a few months, but it's expensive and want other things so I'm selling it and went with a Hallman Manual. It holds strong. I'm very happy with it.

Electronic...I've heard nothing but good stuff about the HKS EVC IV.

If you're turning up boost, you might want to get a higher flowing fuel pump also.

Good luck.

 

[rdrkt]

Batman I’m all but there I ran a 116 at 18lbs on my 60trim and my modded (not crushed) bov held fine.

Batgirl the big benefit with the 1st gen is that its cheap you could get it for 30 bucks some times less.

 

[NDgsx]

Originally posted by Batgirl
Thanks again for helping me with this! Who would you guys look at for a boost controller?

I put the JoeP on my friends 91 and was definetly satisfied for the price.
Bang for the buck it's a good piece.

Personally I have a extreme XBC right now, I wouldn't recomend it. They are way overpriced and the adjustment sucks. I'll be getting a profec B later this year so I can be lazy at the track and not get out of my car .

 

[doug]

My boost controller research has narrowed me down to the following:

Electronic: Greddy Profec B
Manual: TurboXS HPBC

I've read lots of good info on these-- not to say there aren't other good ones. The Joe P and Hallman are popular, cheap MBCs as well.

J Doug

 

[rdrkt]

Originally posted by dsmtrick
I had the Apex AVC-R for a few months, but it's expensive and want other things so I'm selling it and went with a Hallman Manual. It holds strong. I'm very happy with it.

Same here. My avc-r was pimpy and all but it was really complicated and the initial setup was difficult. I sold my avcr to some local Honda guy for what I paid for it and put the manual one back on. The manual works fine even though you have to dive under the hood every time you want to change the boost. But how often do you really do that?

Batgirl: save the cash for the important things because god knows you will need it later.

 

[gstspyder1998]

Originally posted by ProjectGSX
I have been through a bunch of diffent BOVs. I've used the stock 2G BOV, switched to a stock 1G BOV, used the GReddy Type-S, the TurboXS H-BOV, H-RBV, R-RBV, and the H-RFL.

The 1G BOV is the best bang for the buck. Gets the job done, and you can't argue with the price.

The GReddy valve is more convenient to adjust than the TurboXS valves, but the adjustment has to be a TON more precise which makes it a pain to set. The spring it uses is very short, so a small adjustment can make a big difference. The noise it makes is pretty unique too. I didn't care for the sound though, personally.

The H-RBV is a great stock replacement valve. It vents to intake, adds a bit of noise, a big bit of flash to the engine bay, and can hold quite a bit of boost. It has been pressure tested up to 25psi. Drivability gets bad past that, as you need to set the spring so tense that it requires vacuum assistance to open. This is similar to the Tial BOV.

The R-RBV was given to me as a demo unit. I don't think they ever actually produced them.

The H-BOV is pretty much obsolete. The H-RFL replaces it, for the most part. The size and flow characteristics are just about the same and the price is very similar. The H-BOV is $10 less, and not as loud.

The H-RFL is crazy. It is REALLY loud. Their ads say "If you have to ask, it's too loud for you". I would tend to agree with this. I've opened the BOV at people walking down the street before, and actually had people go airborne they were so startled.

So, if you like to frighten the elder and scare away small animals, go for the RFL. If you want a basic stock replacement, I like the RBV. They both run $250 retail with the install kit. If you are buying a new UIC pipe, Dejon Tool sells one with a TurboXS flange built in, so you can save about $60 by not having to buy the install kit.

Here's a pic of my RFL installed:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Hey ProjectGSX, is the RFL flange the same for the Greddy Type-S because your picture looks like my Dejon UICP??? I was just wondering because I was checking Dejon and I saw this:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

.

 

[gstspyder1998]

Originally posted by Batgirl
Thanks to everyone for the very helpful advice. It looks like I have a tough choice to make here.

Hey batgirl your PM is full!!!

 

[Batgirl]

I am definitely going to go manual for the boost controller. I don't see the point in getting an electric because I don't see myself changing it.

DSMtrick: Thanks for the very helpful advice! How much does a Hallman manual cost on average?

rdrkt: Thanks for the word to the wise about spending the cash on other mods. You are totally right!

Jdoug: Do you know how much I could expect to spend on the Turbo XS HPBC?

I just want to thank everyone who continues to respond to my questions. I am taking a lot of time to make sure that I make the right decisions for my BOV, boost controller, and UIP. All of your advice and suggestions are pointing me in the right direction. I really appreciate you taking the time to respond and explain!

Annie