mtwollet
15+ Year Contributor
- 180
- 2
- Aug 7, 2004
Question, today I just went to the dyno, and did'nt do too bad , ended up at 293 hp on the small t-28 my question is this.
I ended up with boost spike at 21 psi and settled at about 18 psi at the end of about 6k rpms at a 3rg gear pull , I have the FP adjustable actuator and was thinking that if the spring is causing the flapper door to open at a given point,
It would seem to make sense to do the following.
PS: I have a Greddy Profec-b with high boost, low boost, and wastegate balance knobs,(mild,sharp)
1. I originally had my wastegate balance set almost all the way counter-clockwise to mild, by placing that back to 12 o'clock I stopped the boost spike by setting it at 12 o'clock.
2. I could turn the hi boost setting back as low as possible to comphensate for the changes I'll make to actuator rod length.
3. Then rotate the actuator adjustment clockwise to shorten the rods length, to minimize the amount the flapper door would open that was causing my boost to fall off.
the reason why I was thinking this approach would be good, is because if the actuator's internal spring has a specific holding limit, I could shorten the actual length of the rod to minimize how much the flapper door could open.
Please correct me if im wrong,
thx
I ended up with boost spike at 21 psi and settled at about 18 psi at the end of about 6k rpms at a 3rg gear pull , I have the FP adjustable actuator and was thinking that if the spring is causing the flapper door to open at a given point,
It would seem to make sense to do the following.
PS: I have a Greddy Profec-b with high boost, low boost, and wastegate balance knobs,(mild,sharp)
1. I originally had my wastegate balance set almost all the way counter-clockwise to mild, by placing that back to 12 o'clock I stopped the boost spike by setting it at 12 o'clock.
2. I could turn the hi boost setting back as low as possible to comphensate for the changes I'll make to actuator rod length.
3. Then rotate the actuator adjustment clockwise to shorten the rods length, to minimize the amount the flapper door would open that was causing my boost to fall off.
the reason why I was thinking this approach would be good, is because if the actuator's internal spring has a specific holding limit, I could shorten the actual length of the rod to minimize how much the flapper door could open.
Please correct me if im wrong,
thx
