swapping my 16G for a t-25

BOC Jason · 04-30-2008, 03:33 PM

I ordered all my gasket and crush washers and i should be getting those by this friday. (may 2nd). I just need to know how easy is it to take out my 16G and put my stock turbo on. I bought my car from a guy a little over a month ago and he threw in the old turbo an some other parts with it. So when i realized that my 16G is pretty much gone (oil leaking out of it) i decided to put my stock turbo back on.

Is it just a simple unbolt and swap out process or do i have a little more on my plate than i anticipated?

If anyone has any tips or hint they could give me that'd be great. I pretty much get no acceleration above 3,500 rpms with my 16g at the moment so i need to swap it out this weekend.

Thanks guys.

yesItsdsm · 04-30-2008, 04:49 PM

Just remember when you put the T25 on to make sure you have the correct oil and coolant lines. I believe the lines for the 16g are different. Other than that it's pretty simple.

Also remember you will have to use a different lower intercooler pipe.

BOC Jason · 04-30-2008, 08:29 PM

See this is the stuff that i need to know...

Is it where the coolant lines hook up at?

I'm pretty much running blind here... =/

joe · 04-30-2008, 08:33 PM

If I remember correctly you have to put the water line on on the opposite sides and bend 1 a little bit pretty much just make sure that they connect.

BOC Jason · 04-30-2008, 08:49 PM

Ok so i'm not going to have to buy new fittings and stuff like that?

i was told that it was a matter of unhooking everything, replacing gaskets, and then re-hooking everything back up...

I don't know much about coolant lines and oil feed lines and stuff... =/

i've been searching the forums and reading VFAQ but i'm still a little lost..

demografik · 05-01-2008, 01:08 AM

have you considering spending the $100 it takes to get a good condition 14b? it's a direct swap and flows almost as much as a 16g, whereas the t25 is quite a bit smaller and requires different lines and intercooler piping as noted.

90laserRSfwd · 05-01-2008, 06:38 AM

The oil drain line is different too..

daren_p · 05-01-2008, 06:58 AM

Basically a pretty straight forward swap but there are a few differences. If you read the 2g 16g swap procedures on the vfaq, you can basically do the opposite of what they say. As mentioned the stock 2g oil feedline & return are different then the 16g. For the feed you should still be able to pick up a factory line from the dealer (should be 2 pieces) if you don't have a stocker laying around. For the oil return, it depends on what they used when installing the 16g. Most just use the stock 2g & file the bolt holes abit larger, if this is the case in your situation, then you can just reuse it. For the coolent lines, they probably re-used the stockers but may have flipped them over or reversed their location to fit better with the 16g. With the t25 mocked up, you should be able to play with the lines to see what makes them fit properly. Other then that you'll need a need oil return gasket/gaskets(if you remove both ends) & 4 new 14mm crush washers for the coolent lines. The IC pipes will probably be slightly different as well, so you'll either need a stock 2g lower IC pipe or something aftermarket or rig something up.

bling5tatus · 05-01-2008, 07:01 AM

You're not going to have any acceleration above 3.5krpms w/ the known good condition t25 either... hahahaha.... I'm kidding.

ZmanIV · 05-01-2008, 07:02 AM

If you cant afford the repair of a broken/worn out turbo ($100 on ebay for a rebuild kit) then maybe you shouldn't keep the car.

Oops I was wrong $75

eBay Motors: Turbo Rebuild kit Mitsubishi Greddy TD05H 16G 18G 20G (item 380021192295 end time May-04-08 07:38:17 PDT)

BOC Jason · 05-01-2008, 10:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZmanIV

If you cant afford the repair of a broken/worn out turbo ($100 on ebay for a rebuild kit) then maybe you shouldn't keep the car.

Oops I was wrong $75

eBay Motors: Turbo Rebuild kit Mitsubishi Greddy TD05H 16G 18G 20G (item 380021192295 end time May-04-08 07:38:17 PDT)

i never said i wanted to rebuild my 16g right now. There a lot of oil coming out of it and i need to just swap it out for right now until i get the time to take it apart and rebuild it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by daren_p

Basically a pretty straight forward swap but there are a few differences. If you read the 2g 16g swap procedures on the vfaq, you can basically do the opposite of what they say. As mentioned the stock 2g oil feedline & return are different then the 16g. For the feed you should still be able to pick up a factory line from the dealer (should be 2 pieces) if you don't have a stocker laying around. For the oil return, it depends on what they used when installing the 16g. Most just use the stock 2g & file the bolt holes abit larger, if this is the case in your situation, then you can just reuse it. For the coolent lines, they probably re-used the stockers but may have flipped them over or reversed their location to fit better with the 16g. With the t25 mocked up, you should be able to play with the lines to see what makes them fit properly. Other then that you'll need a need oil return gasket/gaskets(if you remove both ends) & 4 new 14mm crush washers for the coolent lines. The IC pipes will probably be slightly different as well, so you'll either need a stock 2g lower IC pipe or something aftermarket or rig something up.

hey can you explain how the LICP is different between the two?

bling5tatus · 05-01-2008, 10:38 AM

Aren't t25's downward facing compressor outlet turbos?

ATLDSM96 · 05-01-2008, 10:55 AM

t-25 is a passenger facing turbo. and a 16g needs a j-pipe which makes it facing down.

BOC Jason · 05-01-2008, 12:34 PM

I went and took some pics of the extra parts i got from the guy and then some pictures of my current turbo. Hopefully this can help other people in the future....

All the parts...

Stock Oil drain and the other two i'm not sure...

Three of my stock turbo and what it looks like and what it still has attached...

Is this gap something i need to worry about???

Current oil drain line and where the oil is leaking at...

RRE oil feed line?? Will that fit my t-25?

J-pipe from my turbo to the LICP..

AND LAST....
i noticed this while i was under my car....

i'm definitely assuming that there's supposed to be a bolt there...

and the other side is loose too it looks...

But this is basically what i'm working here with...(and the gaskets i bought in the mail)
All i need is a little guidance maybe

Feel free to comment or suggest anything.

thanks guys!

ZmanIV · 05-01-2008, 02:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BOC Jason

i never said i wanted to rebuild my 16g right now. There a lot of oil coming out of it and i need to just swap it out for right now until i get the time to take it apart and rebuild it.

hey can you explain how the LICP is different between the two?

The rebuild will take you about 1 hour since you are going thru all the trouble to remove the old leaking one I would just rebuild it, especially since the car is already set up to use it.

BOC Jason · 05-03-2008, 01:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZmanIV

The rebuild will take you about 1 hour since you are going thru all the trouble to remove the old leaking one I would just rebuild it, especially since the car is already set up to use it.

I would definitely rather spend $75 on a rebuild kit than $150 for a 14B...

How can i be sure that me rebuilding it will fix the issue? =/

ilikespeeding · 05-03-2008, 01:37 AM

It would be much easier and cheaper just to park the car until you can rebuild the turbo. Instead of spending $40-$60 on lines and gaskets and a new j-pipe, just get a rebuild kit. Or I got one of my 14b out of a junkyard in good condition for $40. Run that as a temp and keep it as a backup.

Or if you are OUT of money, I'll ship you a 14b, give you some money (like $100) and you can ship me your 16G.

Rebuilding replaces the oil gaskets within the turbo.

EDIT: what size are those injectors he gave you? $$$

BOC Jason · 05-03-2008, 12:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ilikespeeding

It would be much easier and cheaper just to park the car until you can rebuild the turbo. Instead of spending $40-$60 on lines and gaskets and a new j-pipe, just get a rebuild kit. Or I got one of my 14b out of a junkyard in good condition for $40. Run that as a temp and keep it as a backup.

Or if you are OUT of money, I'll ship you a 14b, give you some money (like $100) and you can ship me your 16G.

Rebuilding replaces the oil gaskets within the turbo.

EDIT: what size are those injectors he gave you? $$$

I'm pretty sure they're just stock.. =/
you can't quote me on that though... lol

but one BIG question i have is...
If iwas to rebuild the turbo... is it just a matter of replacing the little rings and stuff? or do i have to send the turbo out to get balanced and everything?

and if you do have to ship it out then about how much does that cost?

ilikespeeding · 05-03-2008, 07:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BOC Jason

I'm pretty sure they're just stock.. =/
you can't quote me on that though... lol

but one BIG question i have is...
If iwas to rebuild the turbo... is it just a matter of replacing the little rings and stuff? or do i have to send the turbo out to get balanced and everything?

and if you do have to ship it out then about how much does that cost?

Nope, you dont have to send it out. You just keep the blades inline by using a marker to keep everything lined up. Different kits have different things. I would try to get the biggest kit possible just to make sure. What kind of 16G is it (small/big/evo3)? I'll send you a link of a good rebuild kit. Here's whats usually included:

#1 Journal Bearings
#2 Retaining rings for journal bearings
#3 Piston ring, turbine end
#5 O-ring for compressor housing
#6 Thrust Ring
#7 Thrust Bearing
#8 O-ring for seal plate
#9 Thrust Collar
#11 Piston ring, compressor end
#12 Seal Plate
#13 Retaining ring for seal plate
#14 Left-hand thread locknut for compressor wheel
n/a Oil drain gasket