First off Alfred at Tuning Technologies Tuning Technologies in Colton did an awesome job. I am super happy with the way everything came out. I drove the car over on some 510cc injectors, and installed the 1000cc right there. So he had to rebuild my map from teh ground up. Our goal was about 500awhp on C16 while using the stock block, stock head, and stock intake manifold. We made it up to 461awhp and 394tq. We only ran the motor out to 7.5k and 24-25psi. This was all on a stock block. The car drives super smooth, and runs awesome.
The car is tuned for 0 knock. So we still have alot more we can get out of it. I just dont know how much more the stock bottom end can take. My overall goals are 650awhp on a 2.0.
At about 7pm everyone was getting a little tired, so we called it quits at 24-25psi, but I will be heading back in a few weeks to get it up into the 30+psi range on the stock block.
As an FYI, I have another block on the way, I am just waiting for the shop to finish putting it back together, that is the only reason I am running on the stock block.
Full Mods List
ECU
- AEM EMS
- AEM 3.5bar Map Sensor
- GM IAT Sensor
- AEM WB Gauge Type
- AEM Controller Type WB
- GM Boost Controller
Ignition
- C.O.P.
- BPR7ES .28
Turbo
- Forced Performance DSM88HTA(GT37r/T67)
Fuel
- Bosch 044 In tank Pump
- -6 AN Fuel Line
- Jegs -8 Inline Fuel Filter 10micron
- AEM Fuel Rail
- FTS Fuel Pressure Regulator
- FIC 1000cc Injectors
Head
- Stock N/T Throttle Body
- Stock Intake Manifold drilled with 3 extra pressure ports
- Stock Unmolested JDM Head
- Stock Springs
- Stock Retainers
- Stock Valves
- HKS 272 Cams
- Stock Cam Gears
- Stock Head Gasket
- ARP Head Studs TQ 92 foot pounds
Nice numbers on a astock block with stock valve springs and retainers. The numbers aren't that low IMO considering all the little things that's holding it back.. i.e springs, IM, unported head etc..
Springs and an Intake manifold will probably bring it up a good bit considering how bad springs can actually work against you when they can't close hte valves fast enough.
Ya, I am just waiting for the machine shop to finish the othe motor. This was to get a good idea of what the turbo could do on a stock motor. I have see people up to about 520hp on the stock block. I will try to push this motor a little further, but as someone else pointed out it will not last long at those power levels.
So in a few weeks it will be back to the dyno, to either run up to 30psi, or the other motor will be in and then we go for 40psi.
Nice numbers on a astock block with stock valve springs and retainers. The numbers aren't that low IMO considering all the little things that's holding it back.. i.e springs, IM, unported head etc..
Springs and an Intake manifold will probably bring it up a good bit considering how bad springs can actually work against you when they can't close hte valves fast enough.
The springs retainers, head really isnt holding it back. Its the low boost level. That thing at around 35psi should put down some good power. At 25psi with no cams I think its pretty good. Isnt that turbo capable of 80lb/min and 40+psi?
The springs retainers, head really isnt holding it back. Its the low boost level. That thing at around 35psi should put down some good power. At 25psi with no cams I think its pretty good.
The car has cams. I made the same power and more torque on the S258 on pump, also on stock head/block/intake. This thing should be cracking 500whp at this level of tune. Jake made more power on the regular, non-BB, non-HTA 3575 at less boost on pump.
Thanks for all the feed back guys. As I stated I still need to do lots of tuning. A/F is pretty good I would like to run it about 12.5 and get alot more agressive with the timing. It is setup for 0 knock right now. If we start pushing the timing we can get a lot more power out of this setup, however on the stock block I am super happy with the power level.
Thanks for all the feed back guys. As I stated I still need to do lots of tuning. A/F is pretty good I would like to run it about 12.5 and get alot more agressive with the timing. It is setup for 0 knock right now. If we start pushing the timing we can get a lot more power out of this setup, however on the stock block I am super happy with the power level.
12.5 is pushing it. If you must run it that lean, I would keep it around 12.2 or richer.
To the Op, I hope to have my 35r-hta on within the next two weeks and get to the dyno. I was hoping for mid 450's on my motor and still daily driving it. I am sure some people will flame me and some will support me. I was a little dissapointed with the numbers you are posting especially on c16 but who knows. I guess I will find out soon enough and yeah my profile on my vehicle is current as of now except my dyno numbers posted are lower than my max numbers. I like to keep it real with what I am doing on a daily consisten basis.
Good luck and keep us updated.
Last edited by 99gst_racer; 04-21-2008 at 03:25 PM.
To the Op, I hope to have my 35r-hta on within the next two weeks and get to the dyno. I was hoping for mid 450's on my motor and still daily driving it. I am sure some people will flame me and some will support me. I was a little dissapointed with the numbers you are posting especially on c16 but who knows. I guess I will find out soon enough and yeah my profile on my vehicle is current as of now except my dyno numbers posted are lower than my max numbers. I like to keep it real with what I am doing on a daily consisten basis.
Good luck and keep us updated.
I dont see why you cannot hit 450hp. Just spend the money and make sure you have the correct supporting mods. Tuning is going to be the biggest part on your car. If you want to DD it on pump, just be sure to stay consertive. I am only running 24-25psi right now, I know I can run 30psi without any problems. So you just need to look at how much boost you are going to run on the 35. If you run it about 26psi, you should be close to you 450, on race gas. I dont know about pump. I just watched a hta 35r make 464hp, 340tq over the weeked at 30psi, on C16. The turbo spooled up really quick and ran very strong.
I have the exact same setup but with the 88HTA, and with 5-6psi less I was making same HP and 80fp of TQ more. So it really comes down to tuning. That guy was still working on his map, so it was really rich and had no timing at all. But he did not have any knock either.
For everyone else, I will post up the next dyno sheet in a few weeks.
To the Op, I hope to have my 35r-hta on within the next two weeks and get to the dyno. I was hoping for mid 450's on my motor and still daily driving it. I am sure some people will flame me and some will support me.
Chris at JNZ just made 502whp on pump with his HTA35r, probably still has more in it. You shouldn't have any problems reaching 450whp.
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Goodbye, sis.
Last edited by 99gst_racer; 04-21-2008 at 03:24 PM.
What kinda timing advance were you seeing on this pull? I take it that's where you were conservative as a 12:1 a/f on race is good and the psi even though isn't that low. Do you plan on sticking with the 2.0 or going with a stroker setup when your done reaching your pump gas stock block goals? I think your dyno session went dam good considering I was never big on comparing setups as no two cars are the same even when similar size turbos are used.
nice numbers, congratulations.I think your numbers were realy good.
I am the one with the mirage that put out 464hp and approx 340 pound feet of tourqe. I don't know why but these are the lowest tourqe numbers I have ever had. don't have dino chart in front of me.... trying to show it off haha and left it at my friends. my hx35 had put out approx 380 lb feet tourqe.this was on and awd dino but my car was fwd. so I don't know if that made the difference. it just doesn't seem right I have never put out that low of tourqe.maybe tourqe calibration was off. my boost on my gt35R hta I have a custom persion 62 5 bolt ar housing. on the street I see 22psi (4000rpm) at night, and about 20psi(4000rpm) in the daytime.these were all fourth gear pulls. on the dino I was seeing slower spoll, from the load on the dino. as for the timing I was seeing a peak of 1.6 of knock volts. that is how it is measured on aem.for thoose who don't know that means the car is not even close to knocking. generaly people on aem they use three volts before they consider it knock. a/f I peaked at about 11.9.
trust me from looking at his logs there is definaetly more in it. but we both have stock internal motors.I don't know how long he has had his. but I have had mine and been racing on it for 6yrs. with stock head studs and putting out over 400hp for about 4yrs now.
this isn't my first try at tuning, form afc, dsm link, e-management, dsm chip, mass air translator, e-prom editing programs, stock ecu,loggers, and now aem.
can't wait to see what you put out with a built motor.
Man, 30 psi on a stock block and head is really pushing it on a gt37r turbo. If you really want it to put safe power down it is best if you do further mods to your head and block rather than molesting the stock by overdose for more power. DSM are good and very power cars but the proper action needs to be taken for that or the car will bite you severe in the ass. Not to mention you're are indeed going to have problem with the clutch and transmission if you continue to run your car like this.
good #'s but you sould have made alot more.i made 518hp at 26psi on a 3052 on a stock block 6bolt and intake manny on e85.455hp at 22psi and we detuned it ### it a daily,its not
my car but a friends car that i built.
Another thing is that is one smooth curve No on off switch with a peaky power curve with usless 1000rpm powerband I would be interested in seeing some other dynos of these similar setups see if the curves look similar to this one
The boost moves around on this map, because we had to switch to a Manual Boost controller. I have some wiring issues with my eletronic boost controller. Once we get the boost controller figured out I should be able to see a lot smoother graph, and a solid 25psi across the board.
I am also considering doing an e85 map for the car, because the california 91 is really not fun.
Nothing wrong with that power and that tune for what you have. Pay no heed to some of the useless comments on here. The stock block will handle it to some point. Only thing I can advice you do to is to richen the AF one point and give it more timing advance after peak TQ.
67mm turbo does not have an on-off switch on a 2.0L. Power onset is very smooth and gradual. That car will pull hard all the way to redline. I had one on my car with HKS 272/272s' last year and I was revving it to 8,500rpm with the stock valvetrain with no issues. It ran well.
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10.72@138.08 (Best MPH)
Street Radials, Pump E85
Nothing wrong with that power and that tune for what you have. Pay no heed to some of the useless comments on here. The stock block will handle it to some point. Only thing I can advice you do to is to richen the AF one point and give it more timing advance after peak TQ.
67mm turbo does not have an on-off switch on a 2.0L. Power onset is very smooth and gradual. That car will pull hard all the way to redline. I had one on my car with HKS 272/272s' last year and I was revving it to 8,500rpm with the stock valvetrain with no issues. It ran well.
I was reving my pf2's to 8k with no problem also. these motors can handle alot more then people on here will tell you. i daily drove my car at 23psi with a very similar setup daily for 2 years with no problem with me also ragging on it also. the only thing that killed my motor was the day i got on it and my pressure switch for my methanol decided not to work...
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David 1991 Eagle Talon TSI AWD
Nothing wrong with that power and that tune for what you have. Pay no heed to some of the useless comments on here. The stock block will handle it to some point. Only thing I can advice you do to is to richen the AF one point and give it more timing advance after peak TQ.
67mm turbo does not have an on-off switch on a 2.0L. Power onset is very smooth and gradual. That car will pull hard all the way to redline. I had one on my car with HKS 272/272s' last year and I was revving it to 8,500rpm with the stock valvetrain with no issues. It ran well.
+1 Voice of reason
That's why I was asking him what peak timiing he was seeing because if it was real passive that would be my only suggestion to squeeze some more out to keep it cool for a dd on the stock block. Tuning is a give and take and you see what works best in a nut shell. Some cars will love more boost and less timing and a conservative a/f ratio some will love to run lean with less boost and a little more timing and then you might have a car that loves timing and conservative boos and a/f. Only way to tell is to try it out except with a stock motor messing up usually means your beat lol.
I'll wait for further results.
I think your numbers were realy good.
and left it at my friends. my hx35 had put out approx 380 lb feet tourqe.this was on and awd dino but my car was fwd. so I don't know if that made the difference. it just doesn't seem right I have never put out that low of tourqe.maybe tourqe calibration was off. my boost on my gt35R hta I have a custom persion 62 5 bolt ar housing. on the street I see 22psi (4000rpm) at night, and about 20psi(4000rpm) in the daytime.these were all fourth gear pulls. on the dino I was seeing slower spoll, from the load on the dino. as for the timing I was seeing a peak of 1.6 of knock volts. that is how it is measured on aem.for thoose who don't know that means the car is not even close to knocking. generaly people on aem they use three volts before they consider it knock. a/f I peaked at about 11.9. 
I would be interested in seeing some other dynos of these similar setups see if the curves look similar to this one
