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Good BOV?

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kylelilley

20+ Year Contributor
83
0
Dec 8, 2002
Howard, Ohio
I've been looking for a good cheap blowoff valve for my 95 TSI AWD. I'd really like to get a 1g bov but the cheapest I can find one is $95 and at that price I might as well spend a little more for a brandname one. Any help on where to get a good cheap 1g would be great. :thumb:
 
go to the junk yard. 1g stock bov is only $10 to $25... and spend another $10 to $20 on the flange, and idk how much the weld is. but ill cost about $50 to get everything done.
 
BTW, even you did spend that 'little extra' to get a new one, it wouldn't perform as well as a 1g bov anyway, just so you know. :)
 
I like my old GReddy Type-S BOV. I bought it used on eBay for $70. Pretty good BOV for the price.
 
+1 for Greddy Type S BOV. Beware of fake Type S BOV on ebay though. What's wrong with the Greddy Type RS BOV?
 
The knockoff Type S and Type RS work just as well as long as the diaphragm holds up. Just like the real ones this is what is prone to failure. The real one obviously with less failure rate. There are many threads on it.

I like my bov flange on my uicp to be a 1g, because it can be modified for greddy, and still use adapter for 1g to hks bovs. So you have 3 to pick from.
 
The knockoff Type S and Type RS work just as well as long as the diaphragm holds up. Just like the real ones this is what is prone to failure. The real one obviously with less failure rate. There are many threads on it.

I like my bov flange on my uicp to be a 1g, because it can be modified for greddy, and still use adapter for 1g to hks bovs. So you have 3 to pick from.

Yeah, I'd like to find a 1g because from what I've read it will be more than enough for what I need.
 
The knockoff Type S and Type RS work just as well as long as the diaphragm holds up. Just like the real ones this is what is prone to failure. The real one obviously with less failure rate. There are many threads on it.

I like my bov flange on my uicp to be a 1g, because it can be modified for greddy, and still use adapter for 1g to hks bovs. So you have 3 to pick from.

I can vouch for the leaking diaphragm issue - my Type S developed a rupture in the diaphragm that I discovered while doing a boost leak test. Also, the replacement diaphragm costed around $60 if I remember correctly.:cry:
 
I have run a few different BOV's. I first upgraded to a brand new 1g valve. At first it was good to around 15psi before it started to leak. I ran it for a summer or two & then it started to leak at about 6 psi. Next I ran the Forge, it held boost great, made the best noise of any valve I've ran but with my setup it wouldn't blow off correctly under full boost (just an issues with my setup). They did have amazing customer service & refunded me the full amount I paid to one of their vendors I purchased it from after a year or so use. Next I ran the Greddy Type RS. This valve worked perfect for me once adjusted properly & never had any issues. I used it for about 4 months & then got a deal on the HKS SSQV, which I always wanted. To be honest I don't think the SSQV is that great when recirculated (though its great if you can vent). It basically always flutters & is the quietest of the aftermarket ones I've ran.
 
zippyshoe said:
Also, the replacement diaphragm costed around $60 if I remember correctly.:cry:







If I remember correctly, Daren stated somewhere that he paid somewhere between 80-to-85 bucks for a replacement. And it took him a few months to recieve it (because the Greddy customer support apparently sucks, according to him).
 
If I remember correctly, Daren stated somewhere that he paid somewhere between 80-to-85 bucks for a replacement. And it took him a few months to recieve it (because the Greddy customer support apparently sucks, according to him).

I actually didn't have any issues with my Greddy Type RS, it worked perfect for me (unlike all the other Greddy parts :mad: ) But I was told of people paying like $80 for the replacement diaphragm but maybe that has dropped abit since. I can say Greddy customer service is extremely slow if needed. I had 3 warranty repairs, 2 took 4 months & one took 7 months.
 
Next I ran the Forge, it held boost great, made the best noise of any valve I've ran but with my setup it wouldn't blow off correctly under full boost (just an issues with my setup). They did have amazing customer service & refunded me the full amount I paid to one of their vendors I purchased it from after a year or so use.


I was wondering if you could go a little more in detail why the forge didnt work for you and your setup. Could you tell me what you were running at that time? Thanks
 
I was wondering if you could go a little more in detail why the forge didnt work for you and your setup. Could you tell me what you were running at that time? Thanks

Now that I know more about BOV's I would say that even though I had tried their lightest spring is was still just a touch to heavy for my setup for some reason & wasn't allowing the valve to blow off in one continuous stream at full boost (thought would work fine till about 10 psi) My BOV was connected directly to the intake mani & was the only thing on that line. At that time I had stock cams so vacuum was probably 19-20 inHg. Something that I never tried at the time was to run a larger vacuum line, this may have been enough for a proper blow off all the time.
 
Now that I know more about BOV's I would say that even though I had tried their lightest spring is was still just a touch to heavy for my setup for some reason & wasn't allowing the valve to blow off in one continuous stream at full boost (thought would work fine till about 10 psi) My BOV was connected directly to the intake mani & was the only thing on that line. At that time I had stock cams so vacuum was probably 19-20 inHg. Something that I never tried at the time was to run a larger vacuum line, this may have been enough for a proper blow off all the time.

That’s strange because I am running 12-14 psi, and mine blows off with one burst sounds like the 1g oem BOV but allot louder. Forge has redesigned there 1g recirculation bov. I run the yellow spring and it holds really well. I tried the green spring and it was opening up under boost in 2nd and creeping up. That’s kind of strange; I am also using the stock BOV vacuum line. Kind of wired.

Forge Valve Spring color coding
Green - 5-15 PSI
Yellow - 15-23 PSI
Blue - 23-30 PSI
Red - 30 + PSI
 
I've been looking for a good cheap blowoff valve for my 95 TSI AWD. I'd really like to get a 1g bov but the cheapest I can find one is $95 and at that price I might as well spend a little more for a brandname one. Any help on where to get a good cheap 1g would be great. :thumb:


Don't know if you found a BOV yet, but there is a 1g valve in the classifieds for only $40 shipped.

Here is the link... 1g BOV (uncrushed)
 
My guess is that daren_p's valve (the Forge) was one of the older designs some of which leaked. This leak was before, or under, the piston which would lower the amount of pressure lifting the piston during discharge causing the flutter.

daren_p,

Contact me privately if you would like to try one of the revised units.
 
don't go for RS, my car ran horribly after I had install the RS. I didn't think it was any to do with the BOV since its new. After I did a boost leak test, my RS leaked pretty bad at 12psi and my boost was set at 19. I just went to ACE and bought a stiffer spring and know it holds more boost but stutters.

Will look into the diaphram these guys are talking about.
 
shadowdrag said:
Will look into the diaphram these guys are talking about.








Or just buy a 1G BOV for less than that of the diaphragm and see if that solves anything.
 
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