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tsidrift1

15+ Year Contributor
819
5
May 12, 2004
Decatur, Illinois
OK, I just got a refund from my school since they dropped one of my classes on me(pricks). The good news is, I get some of my money back! I am wanting to get a 50 trim not sure which one yet. I am wanting to know, If I get the turbo,oil lines and wastegate, so it will all be installed, will it be safe to drive at say 10lbs on stock injectors and no tune. I have a walbro 190, thats it for fuel. I will get a 255,750's, maft, and dsmlink eventually, but could I run the car on 10lbs now till the motor gets some more miles on it.(fresh longblock) I don't wanna run more than ten anyways, till the motor gets about 1000 miles on it.


let me know,
Anthony
 
You could do that, but if I was you, I would put the money and buy DSM Link, injectors, and maybe a fuel pump. That way, you won't have any limiting factors in front of you when you decide to get the turbo.

Were you planning to go internal or external wastegate?

Were you looking at T3 or Mitsu bolt-on?
 
You can do that with no problem. It might be a good way to break in the turbo too. Your car will feel slow with the low boost on a t3/t4. I have a dual stage setup on mine and the low is at 10 psi. The car feels so slow. Now at 20 psi it feels great.
 
well, I have the evo III 16g now, I am just the type of person to start big and work my way to its full potential. (If you know what I mean) LOL
 
if you have the evo 3 i would just get the supporting mods first and learn to tune the evo 3 correctly. After you have maxed it out and had your fun with it then jump to the 50 trim and put down some real power.

Thats the way im going to do it anyways. im going to max my small 16g out, then hop on a 50 trim
 
Since you have a e16g I would def get the other mods first...That e16g is a good turbo.
 
First things first, get the DSMlink and tune it so that the motor is breaking in on a good tune. You'll also find that you can make that 16g run like you never thought possible... might even change your mind about spending money on a new turbo so soon. I know a local guy here who has just finished up tuning and ran a mid 12 with just the basic bolt-ons with us Evo3 16g. Car runs great.

What are your goals anyway? Didn't mention those in your post.
 
Thats why I love this site, IT SAVES ME MONEY AND TIME! I see what you guys are saying, I just get moods, i guess, where I just want to go big. That was my original plan, I was going to keep the evoIII for the summer and have some fun with it, and then jump up to the 50 trim. What do you guys think I should get for the 16G? I was thinking dsmlink,680's or 750's, maft, maybe a fuel pump. Let me know what you guys think would be a good setup for the 16G to run at like 18lbs maybe? Probably 15lbs.

P.S. My goals are to eventually have like 400-450 awhp, But this summer I just want something to drive and have fun.

Let me know guys,
Anthony
 
If your gonna keep the e16g (recommended until you max it out), then run it at around 24-25psi. If you plan on getting DSMLink and a bigger turbo in the future, might as well grab the injectors you plan to use with the larger turbo. That way you only have to purchase once. Same goes for the fuel pump. Grab a 255HP and an AFPR if you plan on going big in the future. DSMLink will make whatever injectors you want work right, so just buy once.

If your only goal is 400hp, the e16g will get you there just fine. I just have the feeling that once you get there you'll want more. If not, then you can keep the turbo, scale back the injectors, and work on perfecting your tune.

Speaking from experience, the top end jump from a e16g to a DBB 50-trim is amazing and well worth the upgrade. Just make sure you upgrade when the rest of your system can afford it and you actually need it. I see too many people upgrading from the e16g to try and break low 12s when the e16g can bring you to the 11s with a properly set-up car. I guess the moral is upgrade because you absolutely need it, not because you think you want to.
 
you guys are a big help. I am going to price stuff tonight. Walbro 255, 780cc injectors, AFPR kit(bolt on), MAFT, DSMLINK. I should be set once I have these items, Right?

Let me know
Anthony
 
By the way, You guys crack me up when you say just run it at 24-25lbs, like its no big deal. I have never ran anything over 15 yet! LOL
 
By the way, You guys crack me up when you say just run it at 24-25lbs, like its no big deal. I have never ran anything over 15 yet! LOL

High boost becomes a regular thing... you are now a boost junkie and you tolerance will increase:thumb: I need alot more to get high now, 20psi dosent even make me feel good...

With DSMLink you will be able to really find the limits of that 16G and pump gas, you will probley knock before 25psi on pump... You can def get 20 on pump...
 
I think you will enjoy the 16G at 20+ psi more than you would enjoy a 50 trim @ 10 psi. (Plus you would have to find one with the actuator set that low)
 
High boost becomes a regular thing... you are now a boost junkie and you tolerance will increase:thumb: I need alot more to get high now, 20psi dosent even make me feel good...

With DSMLink you will be able to really find the limits of that 16G and pump gas, you will probley knock before 25psi on pump... You can def get 20 on pump...

Thats funny cause im the same way. 20psi is like nothing now. For the above post who says you would not run 25psi on a 7 bolt I have been doing it for a year first my e316g and now on my 60trim. This is with meth injection of course.:D
 
I had my 50 trim with only walboro 190 before. I did have the B&M FPR mod (increase only or back to stock) and obviously to be safe I increased FP a little bit.

I still got fuel cut at 15psi when I punched it, I was running stock wastegate boost which is the stated 15. I could not floor it basically.

Shortly after, I got dsmlink, denso 660s.

And yes I have ran up to 25 psi on stock 7 bolt, with no knock, but not worth it as I had to rich/remove timing. LOL.
 
I had my 50 trim with only walboro 190 before. I did have the B&M FPR mod (increase only or back to stock) and obviously to be safe I increased FP a little bit.

I still got fuel cut at 15psi when I punched it, I was running stock wastegate boost which is the stated 15. I could not floor it basically.

Shortly after, I got dsmlink, denso 660s.

And yes I have ran up to 25 psi on stock 7 bolt, with no knock, but not worth it as I had to rich/remove timing. LOL.


Fuel Cut has nothing to do with fuel or lack there of.

Also I've run my stock 7 bolt at 24-25psi the last 2 years with lots of knock thanks to the high timing caused by the S-AFC and its still kicking.
 
I'm talking stock as in oem head gasket, oem arp head studs, etc..bone stock. Like my GSX..dunno, I just wouldn't wanna be running 25 psi on it. 20-21 psi at the most for me right now.
 
Stock studs and gasket will handle 24-25psi from a 50 trim.

I have to dissagree alittle. I have a 50 trim with a stock motor. It likes 21 psi at most. I made a few passes at 25 and had a nice oil leak at the heasgasket. I wiped it away and the leak never came back. As soon as I made another pass at 25 psi the oil was back. I wiped it away and was fine no leaky. 25 psi seems to lift the head off the block alittle on stock studs. Everycar is different and this is just my story.
 
I ran 25psi on pump daily on my Green years ago, stock 100k 7 bolt, head was never removed from the block. No issues whatsoever (and this was before the days of Keydiver and DSMlink. My timing was 24+ degrees so I had to run low base timing and pig rich AFRs to keep knock at a minimum.)
 
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