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Link to the 2G T25 Swap/replacement?

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Spoolin4Ever

15+ Year Contributor
1,142
14
Apr 24, 2005
Moses Lake, Washington
Hi I searched, too many matched that aren't what I need. It's quick and simple request;

Where is the best FAQ on swapping out a t25. We would be replacing it with another t25 (on a 2g of course).

I have a chiltons. But I am leaving in an hour to go do it so any quick tips, links would be great.
 
don't break the studs. If your taking off the nuts/bolts, make sure you have the socket on all the way, and you are only applying a torque in the perpendicular direction.

other than that, its super simple
 
OK, thanks appreciate that.

Also thanks to t25_steve, that Pm'd the link, but was unable to post in this forum:

t25 install

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

okay this is really getting old... I can't post in your thread ### I'm a "NEWB" so heres the link.

http://www.team-2g.com/mitsubishi-tech/Turbo/R&RT25.htm

Thanks, hope it helps
 
take out the radiator...it makes life a lot easier and its just 6 bolts ( i think ) and the 2 hoses. It gives you a lot more room to move the turbo around after you get it out.
 
It is possible to take it out without draining your oil or coolant.

This way you will only lose a few drops of each. (do an oil change if your oil is more than 200 miles old though. You wouldn't want to put old oil through a new turbo.)

To use this method take the following steps:

1. Use TONS of PB blaster for at least a few days before hand. I applied it every day for about a weed before the swap, and all of my bolts broke loose with a simple socket wrench. All of them were completely reusable as well. (that is saying something for Utah weather)
2. Remove the heatshields, bring the car to operating tempurature, place the front up on jackstands and quickly(while the car is hot) break loose the 4 turbo to manifold bolts. DP bolts, 02 housing bolts, front o2 sensor, and the oil drain line bolts connecting to the turbocharger. (wear gloves so you don't burn yourself)
3. Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
4. Unbolt the DP.
5. Remove the o2 sensor.
6. Remove the dip stick and the dip stick tube.
7. Remove the Intake, vacuum hoses running to the turbo and the lower IC pipe.
8. Use surgical forceps or something with ample clamping power to clamp the rubber part of the 2 coolant lines running to the turbocharger. now, disconnect them.
9. Using a pair of line wrenches, disconnect the oil feed line. (some oil will come out here, so be prepared)
10. Now here is the fun part: With a friend, support the turbocharger, CAREFULLY bend the oil return line out of the way.
11. Take out the turbo bolts. (stock there should be 3 bolts and 1 stud)
12. Carefully lower the turbo out of the vehicle.
13. Transfer oil and water lines to the new turbo.
14. Transfer the o2 housing to the new turbo.
The reinstallation is reverse of removal.

Be sure to prime the turbo before starting the car. (disable fuel and spark, crank the car for 10 seconds, let it rest for 1 minute. Repeat 3 times)

Be sure to use all new gaskets and crush washers: (here is the list that I came up with while performing my swap.)
Exhaust manifold to turbo gasket: MD128901
Turbo to O2 housing gasket: MD191897
Oil drain line to turbo gasket: MD198888
Oil drain line to oil pan gasket: MR258477
14mm Crush washers: MF660065
6mm Crush washers: MD050317
Turbo Bolts: MR187699

Here are the torque specs:
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If you need more help, feel free to ask.
Good luck and most of all, have fun.
 

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