blcknspo0ln
DSM Wiseman
- 7,773
- 95
- Jul 31, 2003
-
Central,
New_Jersey
Hey guys,
I just installed my turbo tonight and decided to snap some pictures along the way for those who are wondering how to do a 50 trim or ball bearing 50 trim install. If you have a standard 50 trim, don't worry about the water lines I keep referring to, the process is exactly the same.
for starters:
Do everything you would to drop your turbo. This includes all fluids, lines, turbo system parts, etc. Also remove your radiator to make life easier. Then go ahead collect and order all of the parts that you are going to use. This includes all new lines, turbo, gaskets, tools, ratchets, etc. The basic things.
First and foremost, take your BFH and go to down on your water pipe. Be sure not to actually skew the waterpipe as it may cause a leak if the Oring seperates from either the thermostat housing or waterpump housing. You should end up with something like this (picture of my old G50).
*** IMPORTANT*** this applies to both wet and dry 50 trims. REMOVE the banjo bolt/water line that is bolted to the block. It is right below the waterpipe on the passenger side. Lots of coolant will gush out. Now go to the hardware store and pick up a 14 x 1.5 x 10 bolt. Use this bolt as a plug for that hole. You will not need this anymore.
Now, go ahead and do your prep work. This involves PORTING your turbo, RTVing all of your gaskets for install, ziptieing things, etc.
picture of my porting. I used a carbide single cut burr, disc shaped stone grinder, 60 grit 1/2" drum sand paper, then 120 grit. Pay special attention to the flapper entrance, as it is the most crucial part to porting. Be careful and use your judgement concerning how far you go with your porting. TOO MUCH is never good.
*turbine housing comes cut from PTE
Now go ahead and get your turbo system set up. USE antiseize on every fastener you have. torque to spec. Regardless of if you are using stock or brand new water lines, you MUST get 14mm copper crush washers for both sides of the banjo bolt. Once you get the banjo bolt hand tight, go ahead and play around with the actual water line to get it to whatever position you want.
The green lines will indicate a water line, and the red is the oil feed line. Take your oil from the filter housing. *note, I have read others having problems with getting the restrictor and oil feed line bolt to get clearance from a stock 2g manifold. I avoided this problem by having the oil feed line go through the back of the turbo, unlike the traditional way of having it go through the front.
Here are two pictures from the underside of the car. Red denotes the SS feed line, yellow the coolant line running from the thermostat to the oil filter housing, and green is the water line from the front of the CHRA.
*Looking at these pictures made me realize that my MBC line is kinked. Problem was fixed.*
note, although it particularly does not matter which way to route the water lines, I like to believe in Mitsubishi engineers (That's a first, huh?
) so I routed mine the same way it came from the factory. The front water line (picture above) is the water RETURN line. This line connects to the nipple that comes out from the waterpipe. The rear water line is the coolant feed line which is (from the factory) taken from the coolant line coming out of the block. Since that is currently blocked off, a new source of water must be found.
I just installed my turbo tonight and decided to snap some pictures along the way for those who are wondering how to do a 50 trim or ball bearing 50 trim install. If you have a standard 50 trim, don't worry about the water lines I keep referring to, the process is exactly the same.
for starters:
Do everything you would to drop your turbo. This includes all fluids, lines, turbo system parts, etc. Also remove your radiator to make life easier. Then go ahead collect and order all of the parts that you are going to use. This includes all new lines, turbo, gaskets, tools, ratchets, etc. The basic things.
First and foremost, take your BFH and go to down on your water pipe. Be sure not to actually skew the waterpipe as it may cause a leak if the Oring seperates from either the thermostat housing or waterpump housing. You should end up with something like this (picture of my old G50).
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
*** IMPORTANT*** this applies to both wet and dry 50 trims. REMOVE the banjo bolt/water line that is bolted to the block. It is right below the waterpipe on the passenger side. Lots of coolant will gush out. Now go to the hardware store and pick up a 14 x 1.5 x 10 bolt. Use this bolt as a plug for that hole. You will not need this anymore.
Now, go ahead and do your prep work. This involves PORTING your turbo, RTVing all of your gaskets for install, ziptieing things, etc.
picture of my porting. I used a carbide single cut burr, disc shaped stone grinder, 60 grit 1/2" drum sand paper, then 120 grit. Pay special attention to the flapper entrance, as it is the most crucial part to porting. Be careful and use your judgement concerning how far you go with your porting. TOO MUCH is never good.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
*turbine housing comes cut from PTE
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Now go ahead and get your turbo system set up. USE antiseize on every fastener you have. torque to spec. Regardless of if you are using stock or brand new water lines, you MUST get 14mm copper crush washers for both sides of the banjo bolt. Once you get the banjo bolt hand tight, go ahead and play around with the actual water line to get it to whatever position you want.
The green lines will indicate a water line, and the red is the oil feed line. Take your oil from the filter housing. *note, I have read others having problems with getting the restrictor and oil feed line bolt to get clearance from a stock 2g manifold. I avoided this problem by having the oil feed line go through the back of the turbo, unlike the traditional way of having it go through the front.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Here are two pictures from the underside of the car. Red denotes the SS feed line, yellow the coolant line running from the thermostat to the oil filter housing, and green is the water line from the front of the CHRA.
*Looking at these pictures made me realize that my MBC line is kinked. Problem was fixed.*
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
note, although it particularly does not matter which way to route the water lines, I like to believe in Mitsubishi engineers (That's a first, huh?
) so I routed mine the same way it came from the factory. The front water line (picture above) is the water RETURN line. This line connects to the nipple that comes out from the waterpipe. The rear water line is the coolant feed line which is (from the factory) taken from the coolant line coming out of the block. Since that is currently blocked off, a new source of water must be found.
Since October 2005, my talon has seen a total of 330 miles and I have put about 2500 into her on mods and repairs.. but ..
