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ECMlink the car started to act weird

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danieltovar

10+ Year Contributor
281
0
Apr 3, 2011
palo akto, California
well guys one day the the car started to have idle at 2 to 3 rps up and down so i did blt and found i small leak at the tb screw. no major leak so i turn it again and it stay at 1200, so i turn the screw all the way to close and still the same.
i did an log the first one i think something is wrong on the maf or o2.

So i turn the car off and back again and did i second log, but these time it had low idle, so i play with the screw and nothing, know the car was low that when i put it into gear the car turn off on me. i had also an problem where the car will turn off when press the cluch so it hard to drive, but know i can drive it cause is getting worse guys is there something wrong on the sensor reading or on the tunning, where is acting up.
One more thing is the car started to act realy bad after cluch and turbo change, so the tune can be realy off that is causing all these.:barf:dsm
 

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O2 and MAF signals look ok. Check the vacuum line that goes from the intake manifold to the BOV. If that line is disconnected, it can cause a shit storm...just my immediate thoughts.
 
I went and check everything again and nothing look off the only thing i notice was that my fpr gauge was reading 20 when off. The car is acting so bad that these time i put a diff maf and did no want to turn on, put mine back in and it turn on. also saw that the wide band when motor off it reads 12. Also when i remove the gas cap dont hear presure. Back then it did. My thinking is that when i tune the car had an big exhaust lea, cause when tunning the turbo would spool late. So these time it spools sooner. And thats why cause is after that turbo swap.
 
Well, from the looks of your idle log, the only things that stand out is the tps signal is slightly offset (use the tps adjust tool in ecmlink), your ISC position is high (slowly unscrew the biss until it reads ~32 at idle), and your airflowperrev is high (lower mafcomp sliders, should be around .25, maybe .30 for your k272's). I'd start there and see how things react. Let us know how it goes...
 
Well, from the looks of your idle log, the only things that stand out is the tps signal is slightly offset (use the tps adjust tool in ecmlink), your ISC position is high (slowly unscrew the biss until it reads ~32 at idle), and your airflowperrev is high (lower mafcomp sliders, should be around .25, maybe .30 for your k272's). I'd start there and see how things react. Let us know how it goes...

Thanks bro I install an new isc and saw that the white wire to the plug was cut off, just by lucky I saw it cause I was inspecting the plug and notice that behind the plastic wire cover saw the cut. So all these time my car was shutting off due to bad circuit between the sensor and wiring, so maybe that was the reason I did not have an check light.
Still have the problem on the cluch when press the idle will get low, but these time it did not shut off.
 
Guy the car started to shut on me, and I notice that when I press jut little on the gas to chance lanes the af goes to 10, could the 2% that sometimes the tps stay opens make my car to get to much fuel and cause to die. It died on me when where going up an hill when going to firts while pressing cluch.
 
Actually, taking a closer look at your first log, it looks like the maf signal gets jumpy in some spots. Also, you have the "simulate idle switch from tps" selected. If your tps is constantly at 2% it's not going to idle properly.

You said you tried a different maf and the car wouldn't even start...are you 100% certain it was a good maf?
 
Yes the second maf works cause it was in the car before I took it off cause it was hack, but it did work, know it might got damage it can be. Do you think the maf is acting weird where I must it damage by removing it, could that be a tune or I maf going bad?
Know what I did is i move my tps when I was seeing 2% and know it stays on 0% all the time. Before it would go to 0 and sometimes it would stay at 2.

Also I notice that when the car off I turn all the way the plate and it reads 97% when I tried to 100%, and let go to close it stays like in 10% close. Why?
 
Yeah this is not good, you can see the choppy maf signal is causing afratioest to jump all over the place and right after your rpms start occilating.
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Yes the second maf works cause it was in the car before I took it off cause it was hack

Ok, the car probably didn't start because you need to tell ecmlink to use a hacked maf.
2ghackedmassettings [ECMTuning - wiki]

On the mafcomp page, under Display Template, select Hacked 2G. Then click Use Template and save to ecu.

Know what I did is i move my tps when I was seeing 2% and know it stays on 0% all the time. Before it would go to 0 and sometimes it would stay at 2.

Also I notice that when the car off I turn all the way the plate and it reads 97% when I tried to 100%, and let go to close it stays like in 10% close. Why?

Instead of manually adjusting the TPS, you can use ecmlink to offset it with the TPSadjust tool. Watch this video:
http://www.ecmtuning.com/demos/initialsetup.html

After watching all of it, read this:
v3tpsadj [ECMTuning - wiki]
 

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