LC-1 Wideband Problem

[Altoids94]

Just got my DSMlink v3 full and lc1 wideband set up for narrowband simulation but I am having an odd problem. DSMlink reads the wideband at 14.7 in the logs but my db gauge is reading at 9.

LC1 is wired as follows:
Red wire – Cigarette lighter
Blue wire – Chassis ground
White wire - ECU sensor ground (pin 92)
Brown – ECU pin 76
Yellow – DB gauge’s white wire
Black – Calibration push button to monitoring LED to ground

DB Gauge:
White wire – LC1 yellow wire
Yellow wire - N/A
Red wire - Cigarette lighter
Black wire - Same ground source as LC-1 blue wire

 

[5150DSM]

Maybe a silly thought but did you free-air calibrate the sensor before you fired up the the system?

 

[Altoids94]

That was my first guess so I did it 2 more times. It lines up perfect in DSMlink. Idles nice, seems like the gauge for whatever reason doesn't want to read the same.

 

[TJCTalon]

I had the exact same problem. Never figured it out. Went AEM with no issues

 

[5150DSM]

I would recommend changing the grounding location for the LC-1 white wire. According to Innovate the blue and white wires on the LC-1 should share the same ground along with the black wire from the gauge. (Ideally an engine ground but a good chassis ground will do)

 

[snowborder714]

^That's the one nice thing about the LC-1 is that you have a separate sensor ground. You can run it per their instructions of grounding the white and blue at the same location, but if you can get the sensor ground to the white wire, that's better.


I bet you didn't reprogram the yellow wire (factory narrowband) via LM Programmer
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...21002-innovate-lc-1-installation-options.html

 

[Altoids94]

^That's the one nice thing about the LC-1 is that you have a separate sensor ground. You can run it per their instructions of grounding the white and blue at the same location, but if you can get the sensor ground to the white wire, that's better.


I bet you didn't reprogram the yellow wire (factory narrowband) via LM Programmer
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...21002-innovate-lc-1-installation-options.html

I saw that but it says with the LC1 log item you do not have to change the values and it will work with the stock ones.

I would recommend changing the grounding location for the LC-1 white wire. According to Innovate the blue and white wires on the LC-1 should share the same ground along with the black wire from the gauge. (Ideally an engine ground but a good chassis ground will do)

So change it from pin 91 to the same bolt as the blue and db gauge ground?

 

[5150DSM]

I saw that but it says with the LC1 log item you do not have to change the values and it will work with the stock ones.



So change it from pin 91 to the same bolt as the blue and db gauge ground?

After reading snowboarder714's post and the accompanying links, I no longer feel that this is your issue. I was unaware of the sensor ground option, just working from my own install and the instructions from Innovate. Read through the link snowboarder provided and check out the ECMTuning Wiki info in the post he linked to. From your symptoms I would have to agree that you have a programming issue.

 

[snowborder714]

I saw that but it says with the LC1 log item you do not have to change the values and it will work with the stock ones.

Which option in my link are you specifically looking at?

Your requirements are:
-2g
-DB gauge
-logging in v3

Looks like this option to me:

Basic install (DB gauge, Logging) [LC-1 placed in rear o2 spot or new bung]
Red wire – 12v accessory power source (e.g. cigarette lighter or radio)
Blue wire – chassis ground
White wire - ECU sensor ground (pin 92)
Brown – ECU pin 75 (ECU Pinout - http://www.dsmlink.com/images/forums/2GECUPinout.pdf)
Yellow – DB gauge's white wire
(*Must reprogram Analog Out 1 values to match Analog Out 2 values using LM Config 3.15. Screenshots and software - innovatelc1orlm1install [ECMTuning - wiki])
Black – Calibration push button to monitoring LED to ground




However, you used pin 76, so that tells me you probably put it in the front o2 spot. So I'm assuming you setup narrowband sim inside v3 and are using this setup.

Narrowband simulation install (DB gauge, Logging, ECMlink v3 setup) [LC-1 sensor placed in front o2 spot]
Red wire – 12v accessory power source (e.g. cigarette lighter or radio)
Blue wire – chassis ground
White wire - ECU sensor ground (pin 92)
Brown – ECU pin 76 (ECU Pinout - http://www.dsmlink.com/images/forums/2GECUPinout.pdf)
Yellow – DB gauge's white wire
(*Must reprogram Analog Out 1 values to match Analog Out 2 values using LM Config 3.15. Screenshots and software - innovatelc1orlm1install [ECMTuning - wiki])
Black – Calibration push button to monitoring LED to ground
*Note – The brown and yellow wires can be swapped in this scenario.

Narrowband simulation is then done inside the v3 software - v3narrowbandsim [ECMTuning - wiki]


Note how both have the note about reprogramming the Analog Out1 value using LM Programmer

 

[Altoids94]

Will I tried it only difference it made is it went to about 10.5 wouldn't go any higher. Sat around 9 again.

 

[snowborder714]

Did you reopen the LM Programmer after you reprogrammed it to make sure it took and saved the settings?

If it did save and it's still reading improperly, then you may have an issue with either the gauge or the wideband controller (black box).

 

[Altoids94]

Did you reopen the LM Programmer after you reprogrammed it to make sure it took and saved the settings?

If it did save and it's still reading improperly, then you may have an issue with either the gauge or the wideband controller (black box).

Yes I checked it again with version 3.15. All settings were retained. A/F ratios are bang on in the ecu and line up with A/F est.

Would extending wires for the db gauge cause any problems? There all extended maybe 3 feet. Test ground at blue wire and db gauge all checks out.

 

[snowborder714]

If the extension isn't solidly connected (preferably soldered), there might be more resistance than desired that could cause signal reading inconsistencies. I'm not exactly sure how you'd test resistance on end-to-end though since that wire goes directly into the control box.

If you have it connected well though, it shouldn't be an issue at all.

Another option you could do is run another lead off the brown wire and run that directly to the gauge. No reprogramming is required and you know you're getting a good signal to the ECU.

 

[Altoids94]

If the extension isn't solidly connected (preferably soldered), there might be more resistance than desired that could cause signal reading inconsistencies. I'm not exactly sure how you'd test resistance on end-to-end though since that wire goes directly into the control box.

If you have it connected well though, it shouldn't be an issue at all.

Another option you could do is run another lead off the brown wire and run that directly to the gauge. No reprogramming is required and you know you're getting a good signal to the ECU.

Everything was soldered. So I would just splice into thr brown wire?

 

[snowborder714]

Correct, you could pick anywhere on the wire to splice in another wire to run to the gauge. That would be the next thing I would try.

 

[Altoids94]

Correct, you could pick anywhere on the wire to splice in another wire to run to the gauge. That would be the next thing I would try.

Ok thanks, I'll try that tonight. I will update after it is done.

*Update spliced into the brown wire and it worked! Awesome having a working gauge, many thanks snowborder714

 

[snowborder714]

Glad to hear. Still a bit curious about why the yellow wire was causing issues, but all that matters is it's working.

 

[@TDC]

I am having this same issue. So what you did was splice into the brown wire and run another wire from the spliced brown to the DB gauges white wire correct?