6 bolt swap/ 1g cas LOUD spark knock please help

[halestorm]

I have a 1996 tsi 6 bolt swapped. it has crazy loud audible intermittent knock, which i am CERTAIN is ignition related. i have set double, triple, and quadruple checked ignition timing, tried 3 different cam angle sensors, 2 different ecus, and 3 different coil packs. the air/fuel is constantly pegged out at rich, and it may budge a few millimeters the other way occasionally. i know this is not a rod knock, the engine is freshly built, because i put bc 272s and a 1g cas in when i had a 7 bolt right before the swap and it was doing the same exact thing once i put the 1g cas on. i have link, and the computer recognizes when i plug it in but will not connect. i am at about wits end with this goddamn thing, if ANYONE has some insight or similar experience, or lives in northeast indiana who is willing to lend a hand it would be greatly appreciated.

 

[My1GLaser]

Do some searching or start a thread on the Link forums for your connect issue. Then when you get that sorted out you can log and post one up. Looking at a log will make a huge difference in troubleshooting.

If you have a 1G CAS in a 2G you are supposed to uncheck the random misfire detect or something like that IIRC.

 

[miguelmcv]

When you click on connect (Link), does the Cable green Light blinks?, If it doesn't blink, then your cable is not good, I replaced my cable two times already and the light will tell you if the cable is good or bad.

Edit,
I forgot to mention, check for exhaust leak, sometimes it sounds like a really knock, and will cause a malfunction O2 (reading).

 

[Rsawd95dsm]

Do you have the key on when trying to connect? Just a thought and my laptop wont connect in certain COM ports (which I have 3 on my laptop) and i had to try all of them to figure out which one will reconize it

 

[JusMX141]

This isn't the place to solicit business transactions. I'll give you the opportunity to edit the thread title and structure of your opening message before I close the thread.

 

[halestorm]

When you click on connect (Link), does the Cable green Light blinks?, If it doesn't blink, then your cable is not good, I replaced my cable two times already and the light will tell you if the cable is good or bad.

Edit,
I forgot to mention, check for exhaust leak, sometimes it sounds like a really knock, and will cause a malfunction O2 (reading).

yes it blinks as soon as i plug the cable in, then goes away. the computer still shows it is connected to something, but ecmlink refuses to connect. i have checked pin 5 against pin 16 and the voltage is there. loggers connect just fine. but i am
certain it is spark knock, there are no leaks in the exhaust. it is not showing any codes for the upstream o2 sensor.

 

[halestorm]

This isn't the place to solicit business transactions. I'll give you the opportunity to edit the thread title and structure of your opening message before I close the thread.

thanks for the heads up. my apologies

 

[miguelmcv]

OK then do this.
Turn OFF your laptop, but keep the car on the ON position, turn ON the laptop and it will detect Link.
The trick is, once the laptop turns ON, the switch has to be on the ON position for the laptop to detect it.
Do that and report back.

Forgot to remind you.

Change your thread Title so Moderator doesn't close your thread.

 

[halestorm]

UPDATE: I solved the link connection problem. Unfortunately it is about the worst possible scenario, when I bought it I was shafted with a non EPROM ecu, no chip, no eprom conversion, with an EPROM cover. FML. So unfortunately I am not able to provide logs until I deal with that kick to the nuts at REpurchase link AND get the eprom conversion. I have obd gauge for palm, but my palm died since the last time I used it with the 7 bolt, and apparently windows 7 does not support the palm drivers so I have no means to install it at the moment.

BUT all that said, I have discovered that my front o2 signal wire, where spliced for the narrow band, had come undone so I was getting no air fuel reading to the ecu. I corrected the problem, the car ran reasonably well for about 20 minutes, then deteriorated back to the knocking condition. I am assuming because the ecu readjusted the fuel trims. This is seeming more of a fuel trim issue to me. I remembered that when I installed the 6 bolt cas on my 7 bolt and the knock became an issue (as mentioned before) I also installed BC272s (which I have in my 6 bolt now). To my understanding it is POSSIBLE, however not ideal, to run 272s without a tune. I am open to input on whether this could be the cause of my insane amount of knock?