Weird check engine light

[kenuwine4g63]

Ok guys my check engine light is doing the wildest things i can imagine..When i first bought the car there was no cel, but the car had a blown intake manifold gasket. I replaced the gasket the car runs a million times better. Now the cel would come on while at cruise on the highway, i could give it about 4-6 psi and the light would go off. Now when i start the car up the light is off, as soon as i touch the gas or come off the clutch the cel comes on. It goes off and on as i drive but never has a effect on anything. This car is not modded at all except for a mbc and boost gauge. I did have to reroute the vacuum hose off the fpr for the boost gauge to work basically cutting out the emission device on the firewall and using the intake manifold as a direct sorce of positive pressure but thats it..Cant figure out why it goes in and out

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Go get the code pulled at autozone or someplace, could be misfires.

 

[kenuwine4g63]

Go get the code pulled at autozone or someplace, could be misfires.

Most places around me dont have a obd1 scanner...except pepboys but they had to charge me a diagnostic fee of $80...and im def not doing that. My car is a 92, i thought as well it could be miss fires but idk

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Most places around me dont have a obd1 scanner...except pepboys but they had to charge me a diagnostic fee of $80...and im def not doing that. My car is a 92, i thought as well it could be miss fires but idk

This is why DSMLink is such a good investment, you can check your CELs anytime you want and have full control over your stock ECU, just a recomendation. how else are you going to know whats wrong if you dont pull the code? you could try a dealer, but they will probably charge you more then pepboys, or you can go to harbor freight and pick up your own OBD1 scanner, i still vote for ECMLink.

 

[MY1GDSM]

You want to see what the CE is for?

Do it yourself

SEE HERE

could be misfires.

1g's don't have a code for any type of misfire... .

 

[kenuwine4g63]

This is why DSMLink is such a good investment, you can check your CELs anytime you want and have full control over your stock ECU, just a recomendation. how else are you going to know whats wrong if you dont pull the code? you could try a dealer, but they will probably charge you more then pepboys, or you can go to harbor freight and pick up your own OBD1 scanner, i still vote for ECMLink.

Hey i understand link is definetely coming soon, i will need it for my upgrades but right now its unavailable.

You want to see what the CE is for?

Do it yourself

SEE HERE

Thanks


1g's don't have a code for any type of misfire... .

ok so i used a voltmeter and checked it but the cel just stayed on...what does that mean

 

[lil corb]

Might want to look into this http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...ting-car-what-else-breaks-when-ecu-fries.html

 

[Archer Fabrications]

1g's don't have a code for any type of misfire... .

i was unaware of this, thanks for that info

 

[Bud92gsx]

I've never even seen a cel light on in my car. Is that weird? Yes the light works.

 

[MY1GDSM]

ok so i used a voltmeter and checked it but the cel just stayed on...what does that mean

I'm not quite sure what your trying to say here... .

But,

It doesn't clear the code you simply can see what the code is for... .

After that AND ONLY After checking and writing down and addressing what ever the code is for, simply disconnecting the -Negative battery terminal for about 15 sec will clear any stored or active codes... .

If they come back you haven't addressed what ever the problem with the car was...

Or if the ECU is having intermittent problems that fixing senors ect. don't fix. It would be a good Idea to take a look at the ECU it's self. As the capacitors leak in them and damage the boards... . Actually it's a good idea in most cases to look regardless.

 

[bryanwheat]

Hey i understand link is definetely coming soon, i will need it for my upgrades but right now its unavailable.



ok so i used a voltmeter and checked it but the cel just stayed on...what does that mean

You aren't looking for the check engine light to flash. The needle on the multimeter will sweep back and forth. You can also use a test light.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

I'm not quite sure what your trying to say here... .

But,

It doesn't clear the code you simply can see what the code is for... .

After that AND ONLY After checking and writing down and addressing what ever the code is for, simply disconnecting the -Negative battery terminal for about 15 sec will clear any stored or active codes... .

If they come back you haven't addressed what ever the problem with the car was...

Or if the ECU is having intermittent problems that fixing senors ect. don't fix. It would be a good Idea to take a look at the ECU it's self. As the capacitors leak in them and damage the boards... . Actually it's a good idea in most cases to look regardless.

it's actually not the capacitors damaging the board that is the issue, its the capacitors leaking at all or bulging is the issue. They hold electrolytes and are basically little battery's to distribute voltage across the board when it is given power. When it leaks, the Capacitor becomes defective and will need to be replaced. if the capasitor does leak on the board traces its not the end of the world unless the electrolyte/acid inside the cap starts to eat away the board, usually if it does leak and you get it soon enough the board is repairable, but not many people out there feel comfortable micro-soldering a circuit board just to replace caps, you also have to worry about ESD (electro static discharge) because even something as small as you cant see or feel has potential to damage a trace without you even knowing it. Then you are looking at a whole board replacement. I deal with and see this crap almost every day as a PC tech.

 

[kenuwine4g63]

Might want to look into this http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...ting-car-what-else-breaks-when-ecu-fries.html

Well the check engine light comes on then goes off and the factory boost gauge does move up to 0. And the light is off when i start the car it only comes on as soon as i move, the car.

You aren't looking for the check engine light to flash. The needle on the multimeter will sweep back and forth. You can also use a test light.

Ohh OK i was using a DMM looking for the ecu to flash

I'm not quite sure what your trying to say here... .

But,

It doesn't clear the code you simply can see what the code is for... .

After that AND ONLY After checking and writing down and addressing what ever the code is for, simply disconnecting the -Negative battery terminal for about 15 sec will clear any stored or active codes... .

If they come back you haven't addressed what ever the problem with the car was...

Or if the ECU is having intermittent problems that fixing senors ect. don't fix. It would be a good Idea to take a look at the ECU it's self. As the capacitors leak in them and damage the boards... . Actually it's a good idea in most cases to look regardless.

Apparently i was doing it wrong i will try again

 

[MY1GDSM]

it's actually not the capacitors damaging the board that is the issue, its the capacitors leaking at all or bulging is the issue. They hold electrolytes and are basically little battery's to distribute voltage across the board when it is given power. When it leaks, the Capacitor becomes defective and will need to be replaced. if the capasitor does leak on the board traces its not the end of the world unless the electrolyte/acid inside the cap starts to eat away the board, usually if it does leak and you get it soon enough the board is repairable, but not many people out there feel comfortable micro-soldering a circuit board just to replace caps, you also have to worry about ESD (electro static discharge) because even something as small as you cant see or feel has potential to damage a trace without you even knowing it. Then you are looking at a whole board replacement. I deal with and see this crap almost every day as a PC tech.

I'm not going to get into a back and forth about this as I know about the various issues Mitsu ECU's have.

But, your taking what I said out of context, making assumptions of what I said and conradicting yourself all in one... .

I was mearly telling the OP to look at the ECU or post pics as it a known problem to look into... .

Regardless, I as well do this stuff daily basis. So I hope at least the OP can understand there is good concern to take a look at the ECU if their problem can not be addressed by the means I stated above

 

[kenuwine4g63]

I'm not going to get into a back and forth about this as I know about the various issues Mitsu ECU's have.

But, your taking what I said out of context, making assumptions of what I said and conradicting yourself all in one... .

I was mearly telling the OP to look at the ECU or post pics as it a known problem to look into... .

Regardless, I as well do this stuff daily basis. So I hope at least the OP can understand there is good concern to take a look at the ECU if their problem can not be addressed by the means I stated above

I just checked my ecu last night. It has checked out perfect(visually) and there is no burn traces or leaking caps at all. Im defenitely leaning towards the coil because cylinder 3 is giving me the weakest spark of them all. So i thought it was the wire and i switched wires and there goes the same weak ass spark. So coil pack it is!

 

[huafist]

I just checked my ecu last night. It has checked out perfect(visually) and there is no burn traces or leaking caps at all. Im defenitely leaning towards the coil because cylinder 3 is giving me the weakest spark of them all. So i thought it was the wire and i switched wires and there goes the same weak ass spark. So coil pack it is!

Make sure it doesn't smell like fish and that the caps aren't "wobbly".

Also, I'll add that anyone who says caps don't damage the PCB other than a little electrolyte leakage has never seen what happens when these things short out. I have a stack of 1G ECUs that are trashed because a cap shorted and blew a hole in the PCB.

 

[kenuwine4g63]

Make sure it doesn't smell like fish and that the caps aren't "wobbly".

Also, I'll add that anyone who says caps don't damage the PCB other than a little electrolyte leakage has never seen what happens when these things short out. I have a stack of 1G ECUs that are trashed because a cap shorted and blew a hole in the PCB.

Yea everything checked out fine thank GOD, but the coil is whats shut down. the coil for 2 and 3

 

[MY1GDSM]

I have a stack of 1G ECUs that are trashed because a cap shorted and blew a hole in the PCB.

As I

I should post a couple pics of couple sometime, I have around that I robbed parts from that were what I would consider "beyond repair" from over the years... .

OP test the coil of course

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

But also the Power Transistor can make the car not fire on two cylinders as well and a good thing to check.

Not sure if I have a link on how to test it handy and just getting off here. But, it's in the Chiltons manual.

Also What codes did you end up pulling?

 

[kenuwine4g63]

As I

I should post a couple pics of couple sometime, I have around that I robbed parts from that were what I would consider "beyond repair" from over the years... .

OP test the coil of course

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

But also the Power Transistor can make the car not fire on two cylinders as well and a good thing to check.

Not sure if I have a link on how to test it handy and just getting off here. But, it's in the Chiltons manual.

Also What codes did you end up pulling?

Ok, i tested the coil...the primary test out at 1.1 ohms and both of the seconday test out at 13.9 The primary may be too high but even a coil that test out good sometimes can be bad. The transitor is good, i even switched my brothers off to mine and still the same thing. Im getting spark on all for just a weak spark on cylinder 2 and 3. Im pretty sure its the coil, i even switched the cas, black top to a green top, and back again. So its the coil.

 

[kenuwine4g63]

Ok guys it's not the coil pack. Tomorrow I'm dissecting this beast to find out what'd giving on and why

 

[kenuwine4g63]

New ecu, new ptu, new coil and guys I'm still getting a bad idle and a cel. On the verge of giving up guys

 

[huafist]

Did you ever check the codes??

 

[kenuwine4g63]

Did you ever check the codes??

No. Ok the plugs that i had in my car were heat range 5. I just bought some ngk bkr6es and the car kinda cured, my problem now is that i have a dead cylinder on #3. I can unplug the injector and pull the plug wire and the car runs the same. I did swap injectors though.

 

[MY1GDSM]

No.

You have the means to see what the car is tellign you may be wrong and you haven't checked

If removing fuel from a signal cylinder is not making a change in the way the car is running I'd be doing a compression test and/or leak down test to rule out a mechanical problem... .

 

[huafist]

No.

Then I'm done here.