New V3 lite 1st street log

[preludeachris]

So im brand new to tuning stuff and i just installed my ECU with the v3 chip in it this weekend, for the most part i understand the basics how to navigate the program and change values and so forth....just not completely yet if someone would be so kind as to take a look at my fist log and see what you think.....its just a log of me driving in town and "getting on it" a few times

The car does seem to run a bit better with the ECM chip but i really dont see much...if any power increase?

My short term goals would be around the neighborhood of 250hp ish

Im pretty much stock

v3 lite, BOV, and a cat-back that came with the car

also note I have a new front 02 and new oem plugs

 

[turbojo]

im not expert tuner but a good start would be to lower your timing in a few spots i seen 5 degs of knock from 5k to redline

 

[jjw205]

Holy knock.

You need a wideband and a MAP sensor so we can see your true AFR's and boost levels. I suspect you are running very lean with all that knock, since your timing looks fine. Its hard to guess anything else without knowing those things.

 

[MY1GDSM]

Not on a PC so I can't look at the log at the moment....

But I suggest you refrain from "getting on it" till you have a better understanding of what your doing and your have your issues addressed...

as said above your gonna need at least a wideband to do any real tuning...

Take small steps there's slot of things to do before letting the car see boost let alone doing wot pulls if you where.

plugging in Ecmlink isn't going to make power... tunning systems don't make power.

A proper tune for the cars setup regardless of how that is achieved does.

 

[Calan]

Yep... you have a lot of knock.

I'm not sure what you expect; you can't just drop in an ECMLink chip and expect HP gains. You have to actually calibrate and tune the car... and without a wideband sensor, that's tough to do with any real success.

Assuming everything else is stock, you should probably at least do some cruise tuning and get your fuel trims dialed in. I'm guessing either your fuel system or airflow isn't accurate, causing a lean condition as jjw205 mentioned. You could also be running very rich...there just isn't a good way to know for sure without a wideband.

 

[preludeachris]

Holy knock.

You need a wideband and a MAP sensor so we can see your true AFR's and boost levels. I suspect you are running very lean with all that knock, since your timing looks fine. Its hard to guess anything else without knowing those things.

ok... I know this isn't really the place for this and i realize i should of put this in the newbie thread.....how do you put in a "wideband and map"? is it expensive? is it difficult?

 

[MY1GDSM]

Not all trying to promote my own services

But, IMHO If your asking simple questions like this you might consider having someone with a bit more experience handle your tuning. Or at a minimum Do a Lot more reading and research before getting ahead of yourself an blowing a head gasket or worse figuring out what your doing...

Either way there is plenty of help to be had here... you just need to just make sure your not getting ahead of yourself.

 

[preludeachris]

Yep... you have a lot of knock.

I'm not sure what you expect; you can't just drop in an ECMLink chip and expect HP gains. You have to actually calibrate and tune the car... and without a wideband sensor, that's tough to do with any real success.

Assuming everything else is stock, you should probably at least do some cruise tuning and get your fuel trims dialed in. I'm guessing either your fuel system or airflow isn't accurate, causing a lean condition as jjw205 mentioned. You could also be running very rich...there just isn't a good way to know for sure without a wideband.

so if I adjust the timing after 5100rpm and setup my fuel trim.....would that help the knock?

 

[wranglerunner22]

so if I adjust the timing after 5100rpm and setup my fuel trim.....would that help the knock?

Yes.. with a wideband

 

[MY1GDSM]

so if I adjust the timing after 5100rpm and setup my fuel trim.....would that help the knock?

As calan said work on your trims its important to get these things taken care of before anything...

get an Idle log first an foremost to make sure your base settings are correct and work on from there.

Without knowing what your Afr its hard to say but lowering timing at peak tq might help (still haven't looked at the log) but for now just stay out of peak tq till you know your settings are close enough to move on....

 

[preludeachris]

ok well here is what I have so far with a few small adjustments ...it seems that at higher rpms im not seeing anymore knock as before ...(also i have stayed out of peak torque as suggested ) but I still have about .5 to .7 knock in between 2100 and 2850 rpms though

I guess now I just have to get a widband setup any suggestions....that works well with the v3

 

[GSLENK]

ok... I know this isn't really the place for this and i realize i should of put this in the newbie thread.....how do you put in a "wideband and map"? is it expensive? is it difficult?

WB>NB (narrow band) Simple run-down:
Wideband is an oxygen sensor that measures a full range of voltage between 0 and 5 volts. and you calibrate the range from 0 to 22 AFR over that 5 volts. (approx.)
Narrow band is more like a switch. It has a range of 0 to 1 volt. Basically it switches from around .2 to .8 (low/high) depending on where the AFR is (lean or rich) it doesn't read a value, either you are over or under 14.7 AFR (air fuel ratio). NB o2 gauges are a gimmick and waste of money IMO. so now you should be able to tell b/t the two and why WB is so much better and why NB is useless for anything other than factory config.

Now MAP is Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor. Like a boost gauge for your ecu. It measures pressure right at the manifold to log boost. you cannot possibly log boost psi with your eyes on your gauge. the ecu needs to know it to log it. ECM link can use an input for that. MAP costs around 50-150 depending on which and where you get it. you might as well go Speed density at that point and ditch the MAF (mass air flow) system all together. (easier than you think)

Here Is where you need to spend the next week non-stop reading:
start [ECMTuning - wiki]
specifically:
ecmlink101 [ECMTuning - wiki]
and do some more googling of Wideband.

Homework:
Which WB platform is favored for DSMs with dsmlink and why?
(Innovate vs AEM) <<<should be easy to find.

EDIT:

ok well here is what I have so far with a few small adjustments ...it seems that at higher rpms im not seeing anymore knock as before ...(also i have stayed out of peak torque as suggested ) but I still have about .5 to .7 knock in between 2100 and 2850 rpms though

I guess now I just have to get a widband setup any suggestions....that works well with the v3

See your HW... It has been posted over and over again. I am sure you can find the answer the same way I did 6 months ago.

 

[MY1GDSM]

I took a look at the log and it looks like you have a ton of captured values to log your not... And I'm guessing a BLT and a few things are in order to make sure your even ready to get the car dailed im.

Being it looks like you never stop Idle surging

Also, it might be a wise Idea to set you boost gauge to show knock or set your CE to come on earlier. since you never lifted in any of the pulls you did...

Also as far as the above comment I'd say IMHO speed density is the last thing the OP needs to worry about at the moment...

While it may be fairly easy to set up for some.

It's still very involved to build a VE map an not what I would suggest the op do unless there handing the car of to get tuned at this point... Though getting a map wouldn't be bad Idea for the Future or simply to log...

 

[preludeachris]

I took a look at the log and it looks like you have a ton of captured values to log your not... And I'm guessing a BLT and a few things are in order to make sure your even ready to get the car dailed im.

Being it looks like you never stop Idle surging

Also, it might be a wise Idea to set you boost gauge to show knock or set your CE to come on earlier. since you never lifted in any of the pulls you did...

Also as far as the above comment I'd say IMHO speed density is the last thing the OP needs to worry about at the moment...

While it may be fairly easy to set up for some.

It's still very involved to build a VE map an not what I would suggest the op do unless there handing the car of to get tuned at this point... Though getting a map wouldn't be bad Idea for the Future or simply to log...

ook....Im feeling a bit overwhelmed ....not sure if you guys are really helping me

 

[WES_393]

From what I can see you haven't done any idle or cruise tuning. Your MAFComp is flat and you Airflow/Rev is at .28 at idle. It should be at around .25. Also, do you have a manual boost controller? Because your boost control solenoid is turned off. You can't start wide open tuning until you have the idle and cruise under control.

If you realy want to tune the car yourself you will need to read/watch everything on ECMTuning's website, install a wideband, and log the wideband. Once you've done that go from idle tuning>cruise tuning>wide open tuning.

 

[MY1GDSM]

ook....Im feeling a bit overwhelmed ....not sure if you guys are really helping me

Problem is you need to help yourself in the end...

As said above if your going to tune the car yourself you need to have a complete understanding how things work what to do that make them work and how to accomplish this without breaking something in the process.

The best help we can give at this point if your set on doing it yourself is do A Lot of Reading take small steps an wait till you fully understand everything your doing before making any changes.

 

[big_d]

ook....Im feeling a bit overwhelmed ....not sure if you guys are really helping me

What was the big rush to install/purchase Link in the first place? With your modifications, I see no need to jump into tuning. Step back, and do some reading. We have people on this forum that are quite willing to help someone that wants to help themselves.

The trouble is, these newish members get on tuners and every other person tells them to buy Link(or other tuning devices) like it is the first step in modifying a car. This is a perfect example of someone doing so, and being overwhelmed by it. I bet half the people that rock Link have no clue that the DA tables even exist. ...and I am in no way hating on Link. It is a powerful tool that I love using as well. It's just that "TOONIN" is a little more involved than many people make it out to be on this board.

 

[Calan]

It's just that "TOONIN" is a little more involved than many people make it out to be on this board.

Pffff.... nothing to it!

I've been tuning on my own car and playing with ECMLink literally every day for over 3 years or so, and I sometimes still feel like I have no clue why it does some of the things it does. Of course my car is evil, so that may explain at least part of it...

 

[preludeachris]

Ya I guess I didn't realize the level of detail it takes its not that im not willing to try or learn ....i guess i just expected to much to fast but ill get it sooner or later .....my biggest problem is im a very hands on type of learning and although iv learned a great deal on the forms its sooo much better when i do it/see it in action

 

[Calan]

Ya I guess I didn't realize the level of detail it takes its not that im not willing to try or learn ....i guess i just expected to much to fast but ill get it sooner or later .....my biggest problem is im a very hands on type of learning and although iv learned a great deal on the forms its sooo much better when i do it/see it in action

Like Dustin said, there are a lot of people here that enjoy helping people learn... the more DSM knowledge in the pool the better. BUT (and I think I speak for the majority), our prerequisite is that they show some initiative and do some research, and try to find the answers themselves first; especially to the basic stuff that has been answered 1000 times and is easy to find.

It is really hard to be motivated to help someone (not you personally) who refuses to use the search bar that is 4 inches above the area they used to ask the simple question in the first place, or types like they are half way through the third grade. Most of us will just roll our eyes and pass right on by those threads even if we could have them up and running in 30 seconds.

 

[LandSpeed-DSM]

What was the big rush to install/purchase Link in the first place? With your modifications, I see no need to jump into tuning. Step back, and do some reading. We have people on this forum that are quite willing to help someone that wants to help themselves.

The trouble is, these newish members get on tuners and every other person tells them to buy Link(or other tuning devices) like it is the first step in modifying a car. This is a perfect example of someone doing so, and being overwhelmed by it. I bet half the people that rock Link have no clue that the DA tables even exist. ...and I am in no way hating on Link. It is a powerful tool that I love using as well. It's just that "TOONIN" is a little more involved than many people make it out to be on this board.

I'm still of the opinion that after a UEGO and a real Boost gauge, Link is the first mod a DSM owner needs.

Then an MBC and fuel mods, etc.

But none of the above will do you any good if you aren't willing to read and research before diving in on any of the above.

 

[Calan]

I'm still of the opinion that after a UEGO and a real Boost gauge, Link is the first mod a DSM owner needs.

Agreed 100%

...along with a FSM and some self-reliance.

 

[jed344]

Ill add one more thing once you get idle and cruise dialed in when you go to tune wot just start with 3rd gear pulls start at like 2grand and go to 6500 or so and just keep doing those pulls while adjusting till its right were it should be then go threw the gears and log and see what it shows.