Anyone use the Innovate LC-1 wideband kit?

[DROPthatCLUTCH]

If you use the LC-1, lemme know what you think about it.

My choice is between LC-1 or AEM.

 

[phunny]

If you use the LC-1, lemme know what you think about it.

My choice is between LC-1 or AEM.

The LC-1 is the best WB period. There is a good test that was done and it came out on top, cant find it though.

 

[DROPthatCLUTCH]

Okay, sick.
I'm gonna go try and search for it.

 

[Grescht]

I have an lc1 with an xd-16 gauge and I love it. I've also heard the aem is more difficult to install . My lc1 was easy to install.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

I have the innovate kit and I like it. Only problem is I've had it 5 months and the sensor has already gone bad!!! So I'm having to send it back to them and as I'm in the UK its a pita. Oh well it is a good kit though guess it can happen to all kits but I just got the dodgy 1 ha ha

I forgot to put that they are sorting it for me though felipe @ innovate is nice and very helpful.

 

[19BLACKGST98]

I have the LC1 and it works great. I've never owned an AEM WBO2 though.

 

[dsmpat95]

AEM is easy to install. Its just getting it to read right in ECMLINK is a little tricky.

 

[snowborder714]

LC-1 > AEM if using it with ECMlink. If not, I would say the AEM would be less problematic. But if narrowband simulation is a feature you may want, the AEM doesn't offer it while the LC-1 does.

I'd look into the new Innovate setup, the MTX-L. It looks like a pretty nice unit, and I've heard it should be more reliable than the LC-1.

Here is the article Charlie was referring to.
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/resources/FM_WB_Shootout.pdf

 

[TurBoneRed]

The LC-1 is the best WB period. There is a good test that was done and it came out on top, cant find it though.

 

[DROPthatCLUTCH]

The MTX-L looks like an upgraded LC-1.

And with a lower rate of failure. I think I just found my future WB.

 

[D's GS-T]

LC-1 seems like a good wideband, but I know a guy who had multiple failures so that made me kind of worry.

 

[snowborder714]

It is a common problem, yes. If you're willing to put up with it to know that you'll have a kick ass unit once you get a working one, then I'd go for it. If not, get the MTX-L, or another brand.

Granted, the MTX-L is fairly new, so it could also have problems, but I have yet to hear of any.

 

[DROPthatCLUTCH]

I heard the same stories. But, like snowboarder said, the MTX-L is supposed to be more reliable.

And, it's actually cheaper on ebay than the LC-1... $185 Free shipping.

 

[MY1GDSM]

I've actually used both...

the lc-1 is a far superior W/b in many ways,you won't be disappointed

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

The MTX-L looks like an upgraded LC-1.

And with a lower rate of failure. I think I just found my future WB.

The mtx is still the LC-1 its just the name of the new gauge that comes with it! Mine is the LC-1 W/db gauge. The other is LC-1 W/xd16 gauge there all LC-1 kits and as far as I'm aware still the same product but you get an xd16 style gauge for a fraction of the real price! Nothing is better but the gauge that's all.! as I looked at this after I brought mine then they released the mtx range! It is the best I feel and logging with ecmlink is good.

AEM is a basic unit with 2-3 wires and very easy to install! Innovate is a lot more work but better after its all done! Go with the innovate and please remember to calibrate it at least every 6 months for a DD

 

[Big T-28 GSX]

I love my lc 1 with db gauge, very simple install and have had zero problems

 

[snowborder714]

The MTX incorporates the wideband controller into the gauge, instead of having the LC-1 style black controller box.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

The MTX incorporates the wideband controller into the gauge, instead of having the LC-1 style black controller box.

This seems llike its going to be a lot of hasstle! But we will see.

 

[Imback]

I should be tuning a car with a mtx this week. I will give my review shortly afterwards.

 

[Boost Freak 3]

I had the lc-1 and I felt like every other day I was haveing a problem with it for some reason. Yanked that out installed and aem and love it. I do say that I like that the lc-1 can go to a lower numers like 8 and 9

 

[LiquidX]

I currently have the MTX-L and it's amazing. I like it so much better than the DB gauge with the massive LC-1 controller box.

No more wiring up 15 wires to have it all functional. As the controller in in the gauge, everything is pre plugged in. The only soldering I did was for power, ground, and ECU hook up. I am running my gauge in a gauge cluster pod so unfortunately, the provided harness is too short. I needed to extend those wires (mentioned above) to reach where I was going.

I'm extremely happy with it, calibrating just requires unplugging the o2 sensor for heater, then when ready, plug the sensor back in and it will automatically calibrate it without having to use a grounding button.

The gauge is easy on the eyes without having it hooked up to the head light wire unlike the blue DB gauge I have sitting around now. Just be sure to set the voltage points on the controller itself to a narrower selection to make it more accurate. I'm seeing a lot of 12.x and 13.x AFR while cruising around and I believe it has to do with the range the controller sees 7.x-22.x. I'll be changing it to 8.x-20.x and see if it clears it up a bit.

My LC-1 crapped out on me randomly and what would happen is if I went into boost, it would have a chance that the controller would randomly reset itself. The gauge would blink and I would have to turn the key off and on again (hopefully before 5 seconds) to restart it. If I missed that window then I would have to re calibrate the unit. It was a problem for me due to running narrow band simulation.

Video of the MTX-L. I changed the gauge read out to show 9.0:1 - 20.0:1 AFR from the factory settings of 7.5:1 - 22.3:1 AFR. I also changed the gauge LED sweep display to show a different range for the green, yellow, and red lights.
<embed src="http://www.youtube-nocookie.com/v/2JDKkVSI4bU&autoplay=0&fs=1&rel=0&hq=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" width="480" height="385" wmode="transparent"></embed>

 

[goodbuds]

Dose anyone have a write up for lc1, xd-16 install on a 2g.

 

[knochgoon24]

It comes with instructions. Or go on Innovate's website. Just find +12v ignition and +12v constant. There are several spots to tap for each. It's a pretty universal install.

 

[goodbuds]

Thx, there were a few threads, but they all seamed alittle different from each other. And I like pictures..

 

[G-UNIT]

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You can buy it here >> NEKO CORPORATION Air Fuel Ratio Meter System - AF-700

But it's not cheap. Out of range for most dsm'rs.