Cannot Idle

[01QuadDak]

Recently swapped in my stroker, combo is as follows-
Wisco Pistons, Eagle Rods, 4g64 crank, 1mm over valves, BC 280 camshafts, Fidanza cam gears, JM fab manifold, FIC 1150 Injectors, SBR manifold, PTE 50 trim, DSMlink, MAFT, stock throttle body w/new seals, SBR FMIC, Bosch in-tank fuel pump, -6 line from tank to rail.
PTT twin disc clutch.
Fuel pressure is a constant 40 psi, 95% sure there are no leaks, 2/4 ports on manifold are plugged, 1 goes to boost gauge, the other to brake booster.
The car is hard to start, and i cannot get it to idle all. When i have my foot lightly on the gas pedal, the a/f is around 25:1 to 40:1, and the o2 sensor on my car reads about .02V. If i reve it slightly i can get it to dip down into the 19:1 range.
DSM link fuel trims are as recommended on the dsmlink page for these injectors.
HEre is a log of my 1500 rpm range, the only place i can get it to run.
Any help with this is greatly appriciated.

 

[bastard dsm]

cant see your log but the fuel trims that are recommended will not apply on your set up.
you have oversized valves and the big cams along with the intake manny,start tuning my friend.
you need to run a vac. line to the regulator also.make sure the maf-t is set for stock injectors and
lower your global settings till it richens up. then your going to have to play with the hertz table
for idle,cruz, and partial acceleration.you have a lot of work to do

 

[01QuadDak]

Thanks for the reply sir!
I'll be sure to hook the regulator up tomorrow.
My MAFT is baselined, i have been doing all of my tuning through the dsmlink.

 

[bastard dsm]

no prob man,keep us informed on your tuning problems.

 

[01QuadDak]

Still beating my head against the wall, I cannot get it to idle AT ALL. I think the base map is so screwed up, but i cannot figure out what is wrong.
I try turning the biss screw out, but it seems to get worse. All it soes is start, then promptly stall. If i rev it a bit i can keep it running, but i got nothing at idle.

 

[spyderturbo007]

Your post is pretty hard to read, but I think I get what you are saying.

95% sure there are no leaks isn't good enough. You need to be 100% sure.

DSMLink estimated AFR is wrong because you have the properties for the injectors set wrong. Go to Display -> Values -> AF Ratio and click on the "Props" button. Enter the appropriate information into the dialog box. I don't see what you mean about the Front O2 is 0.02v? It looks alright, although I think it's leaning to the low side. It's cycling between about 0.30 - 0.70v. How old is the Front O2.

Also, I see that the TPS value = 0, but you said that you have to rev the car to 1500rpm for it to run? You might want to look into the problem there. Why the hell are your 50 and 100Hz airflow sliders at +40%? That's a huge problem right there. I also see you are using the Fake MAF option. Why are you doing that? It's only needed when you are exceeding the limitations of the stock MAF.

I would:

1. Check for boost leaks
2. Set all airflow sliders to 0
3. Uncheck Fake MAF
4. Set the AFR Props to the correct values
5. Check again for boost leaks

Then try again.

 

[01QuadDak]

Here's some updated logs, some odd oscillation going on.
I think i need to adjust the global a bit, and work it from there.
Also the TEWBlin is my wideband.
Let me know what you think.

 

[01QuadDak]

I got it to run fine off of idle, but as soon as i close the throttle, it stalls.
If i don't have the throttle open at least 4% it will not stay running.
I also tried disconnecting the maft from the harness, as well as the sensor, and i still got a MAFraw reading that changes with RPMS... whats up with that?

 

[1992awdlaser]

Go to tps and check simulate idle switch and see if it will idle.

 

[01QuadDak]

Tried that, no luck.
I've to the idle in the dsmlink set to 1100, no dice at all.

 

[1992awdlaser]

What the idle is set at has nothing to do with what I'm talkig about. Click on ecu/logfile then click on tps and check simulate idle switch. Take a log of that. Take a quick log without it checked also while logging iscposition.

 

[01QuadDak]

There's no ISC or FIAV in the car, i use the blockoff plate, and was controlling with my BISS.

Like i said, the car will only idle if i keep the throttle 3-5% open, I'll take logs of the simulated switch, and wihtout, and post them up in a half hour or so, the computer I am using for the internet cannot hook up to my link.

 

[1992awdlaser]

There's no ISC or FIAV in the car, i use the blockoff plate, and was controlling with my BISS.

Bingo. I bet when you check simulate idle switch that it idles.

 

[01QuadDak]

No dice on that, it iscposition was 50 and steady for both of the logs, holding throttle open at 4% to keep it alive. No difference between the switch simulated or not.

 

[01QuadDak]

I've tried everythign i can think of, i can't even get it to idle long enough to check the timing, it seems to wait until i get the gun aimed right at the crank to stall. The CAs is set at a point where it will dle the longest, no more than a few seconds at the most.
I've tried everything i can think of, BISS all the way out, using a 1G MAF, adjusting fuel trims, adjusting airflow, reducing 15% from MAFT box, trying to trick the computer, beating in the fender, screaming in anguish, and not a one has helped.
I am at a loss. After 6 days of messing with it and no change i am pretty close to giving up.

 

[01QuadDak]

UPDATE-
I had it idling fine for a while there, but now whenever the car warms up, it has a harder and harder time returning to base idle, to the point where it will sometimes stay at 2k rom til i blip the throttle, then it will go down to normal. Occasionally surges too.
I think i am going to eliminate the IAC again, only i will also drill a small hole in the throttle plate(holley carb style) and adjust using the biss only. Thats when the car idled the best with the old motor, no IAC and using biss only, idled like a champ.
Wish me luck.