Setting up GM maft on my car/ need a little help

[Black_Bullet]

Ok first off Ive recently purchased a GM maft setup and I am trying to set it up on my car.
I am not trying to tune with the maft, I have a eprom chip controlling everything so the maf will be zero'd out. I am coming from the 2g mas.

The maf translator that I have is a hack job, because the guy who had it before me was trying to do the cheapo wiring extension to allow it to sit in the glove box but the wiring was so F'ed up with different colors spliced on and no harness plug for the stock maf plug to plug into that I decied not to try to confuse myself with his mess and I just ordered the 2g Maf harness extension from machV http://us.st12.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.c...2001_148642152 also so I can sit it in the glove box the right way.

Ok well the black plug in that picture in the link is the side I plugged into my 2g plug harness. ( I have the 2g plug spliced into my 1g harness since I used to run 2g mas.)

Now, I cut off the white plug in the links picture and the 5 wires left hanging from it were identical with the colors of the wires coming out of the maf translator, so i was thinking MachV would just make the wires the same color for simplicity, I just spliced the wires from the cut end of the extension harness onto the Maf-T wires color for color.

The three remaining wires coming out of the translator were attached to the small plug that goes into the GM maf itself. ( A black, a yellow, and pink. ) I didnt do anything with the white wire ( rpm) or purple. I dont believe i will need them even though later on Ill hook up the rpm wire anyways.

Well when I tried to start the car with everything plugged in and setup, the car immediately began idleing funny, hunting up and down from 1k to 3k ( idle suppose to be 900rpms.) and then I smelled fuel, and my check engine light came on seconds later.
My CEL is never on when I just have the 2g mas on there.
My friend Aaron runs a maf in his built 1g and he knows how to tune with them and set it up and everything with the translators dials. The red light flashed when he was trying to set it, and the green light blinked like once when we first tryed to turn it on and then turned off and stayed off ( Not right ?)

The conclusions Ive came up with is-
1.) I completely wired it wrong,
2.) I completely wired it wrong and/or the translator or maf is crap.

So for today I just put the intake pipe and 2g maf back on and just left the gm maf were it was on the UICP and drove it like that to work since I cant have the car down....

So could anyone help me with the wiring, Ive searched thru a few threads and what not on how the wiring is suppose to be and what each color is for, but since my wires were so fudged with no plugs to begin with I dont know which goes to what plug, especially since there are two blacks, and two pinks. I may end up just going thru the process of elimination. I need to keep the MachV extension harness as a bridge as I dont want to cut into my stock mas harness wiring or chop off the plug, so I can make this gm maf setup reversable like I have done in case I dont want to continue with it.

Thanks....

[tunethis]

You probably wired it wrong. I recently hardwired a maft into my 1g harness. I also came from a 2g mas. However, I didn't have to hardwire the GM Maf since I had the plug coming from the maft. You will only hook up 5 of the 7 wires coming from the 1g harness. Just tape or cap off the 2 unused wires. Be sure to set the dip switches to the correct positions before starting the car. Also, "zero" out all the dials since you aren't tuning with the maft. Make sure you connect the red wire from the harness to the pink wire on the maft (12 volts). You will not need to hook up the purple wire or white wire coming from the maft. Check out the links below for more help.

Use this for the 1g mas harness colors.
1G to 2G MAF Upgrade chart

Maft version 2.00+ instructions/tuning guide
MAFT Version 2.0+ Tuning Guide - Full Throttle Speed Tech Support

Maft version 1.3 instructions/tuning guide
MAFT instructions, version 1.3 OLD VERSION - Full Throttle Speed Tech Support

[Black_Bullet]

Originally Posted by tunethis

You probably wired it wrong. I recently hardwired a maft into my 1g harness. I also came from a 2g mas. However, I didn't have to hardwire the GM Maf since I had the plug coming from the maft. You will only hook up 5 of the 7 wires coming from the 1g harness. Just tape or cap off the 2 unused wires. Be sure to set the dip switches to the correct positions before starting the car. Also, "zero" out all the dials since you aren't tuning with the maft. Make sure you connect the red wire from the harness to the pink wire on the maft (12 volts). You will not need to hook up the purple wire or white wire coming from the maft. Check out the links below for more help.

Use this for the 1g mas harness colors.
1G to 2G MAF Upgrade chart

Maft version 2.00+ instructions/tuning guide
MAFT Version 2.0+ Tuning Guide - Full Throttle Speed Tech Support

Maft version 1.3 instructions/tuning guide
MAFT instructions, version 1.3 OLD VERSION - Full Throttle Speed Tech Support

Ok thanks for the response.

The translator should already be set correctly on the dials. Ive made it that far, i know it only needs 5 of the wires, and that I dont need the white or purple, but when I do install the white ( rpm) im going to put it to the cas.

Would it matter if I mixed up the two pink wires and/or the two black wires (ground) coming out the translator?
( Since there was no plugs I dont know which pink or which black goes to which plug.)
Im initially thinking thats what i did wrong.

Besides that, the only thing unique about my setup that may bring some question to my mind is that I run the N/T fuel pressure reg. which gives a 47.6psi base.

Therefore would I really be still setting the translator to stock injectors with a not stock fuel pressure?
(48psi base makes 450s flow 505cc btw)

Or does that not matter since my chip handles the inj compensaiton. ( I run 850s ) And since i run the 2g mas, and it is compensated for correctly in my chip tune, that means Im also suppose to set the translator to how a stock 2g would be set correct?

Im thinking with it zero'd out , it shouldnt affect the chip tunes settings ?

[tunethis]

Originally Posted by Black_Bullet

Ok thanks for the response.

The translator should already be set correctly on the dials. Ive made it that far, i know it only needs 5 of the wires, and that I dont need the white or purple, but when I do install the white ( rpm) im going to put it to the cas.

Would it matter if I mixed up the two pink wires and/or the two black wires (ground) coming out the translator?
( Since there was no plugs I dont know which pink or which black goes to which plug.)
Im initially thinking thats what i did wrong.

I'm not sure about the double pink and double black wires but, they both do the same thing (12+v and ground).

Besides that, the only thing unique about my setup that may bring some question to my mind is that I run the N/T fuel pressure reg. which gives a 47.6psi base.

Therefore would I really be still setting the translator to stock injectors with a not stock fuel pressure?
(48psi base makes 450s flow 505cc btw)

I'm not sure about this. But, I'm sure it affects you somehow. I don't think that alone is why you car doesn't run right. I'm still with the stock 450's and I'm running a Walbro 255 and a stock fpr. I'm sure my fuel pressure is pretty high but my car idles fine and pulls pretty good. It still needs work after 6k but it's good enough until I tune it better.

Or does that not matter since my chip handles the inj compensaiton. ( I run 850s ) And since i run the 2g mas, and it is compensated for correctly in my chip tune, that means Im also suppose to set the translator to how a stock 2g would be set correct?

I read somewhere about setting the maft for a 2g if a chip is compansating for a 2g mas.

Im thinking with it zero'd out , it shouldnt affect the chip tunes settings?

It shouldn't but, a logger will let you know. I know people say to zero it out since the chip compansates for the fuel. But, when I zero out my maft with the stock injectors, I run super rich and I have to tune with it. The stock ecu compansates for the 450's but I still have to tune with the maft. I'm still learning though.?

....

[Black_Bullet]

Ok thanks. If both pink and both black wires do the same thing then it shouldnt matter which plug it ended up going to right?

Can you take me some pics of your translator wiring into your harness perhaps?

If thats the case i must have a bad translator, or something else unforseen .
I will have a day off tommorow so I have time to look at it then, Ill keep you posted.
Hopefully Ill figure it out by then, id really like to wrap this up quickly, I dont like taking too
long to do anything that should be simple .

[tunethis]

I'll see if I can get some pics now. It's dark so, they may suck. I will write down the colors from the harness to the maft as well.

[Black_Bullet]

Originally Posted by tunethis

I'll see if I can get some pics now. It's dark so, they may suck. I will write down the colors from the harness to the maft as well.

Cool thanks!

As much as I know about Dsm, this is my first time ever dealing w/ the maf first hand
and mines was such a mess when I got it that I didnt know were to start. But im pretty sure im at least close with the wiring or the car wouldnt have even started and idled like it did, though it was idling crappy and throwing a CEL.

Yea just throw up your pics and i know the gray, green, brown, go to the engine harness and that the yellow goes to the maf plug, just those two pinks and two blacks throwing me off; and I was basing my wiring off of machV's 2g maf extension harness since I just matched them up color for color but didnt actually consider that it may be incorrect to my actual harness.

[tunethis]

Okay. Apparently my cheap camera doesn't have focusing. So, I have no pics. Anyways, after looking inside the maft, I'm thinking the 2 black and 2 pink wires may need to be connected correctly. I looked at all my wires and noted how the are connected. It is as follows:

*NOTE: I have the early 1.3 version maft but, the wires inside should be the same color for the 2.00+ versions.

(Looking at the Maft with the wires coming out of the right side)

There's a total of 10 wires coming from the maft.

From top to bottom:

1. Purple - not used
2. Brown
3. Pink - to GM maf
4. Black - to GM maf
5. Yellow - to GM maf
6. Green
7. Black
8. Pink
9. White - not used
10. Grey


1g harness _______ Maft


Green/yellow >>>> Grey

Green/Orange >>>> Brown

Green/Blue >>>> Green

Green/Black >>>> Black

Red >>>> Pink

The best way to find the correct wires for the GM maf is to trace them all the way from the maft itself. The first pink and black wires and the only yellow wire coming from the maft (from top to bottom) goes to the GM maf.

[chavez408]

oh god it makes me not want one.

[tunethis]

Originally Posted by chavez408

oh god it makes me not want one.

I just got mine two weeks ago and had to hardwire it because my car had a 2g mas and I couldn't find a turbo 1g mas plug. I did some research and went for it. I didn't have any problems at start up. I bought my maft because the previous owner of my eclipse had the 2g mas installed without any tuning devices. I bought a logger setup and saw that my fuel trims were at 137% across the board. I was tired of running my car like that. I wanted something cheap to tune with and I wanted to get rid of the cramed-in 2g mas intake setup.

[Black_Bullet]

Originally Posted by tunethis

It shouldn't but, a logger will let you know. I know people say to zero it out since the chip compansates for the fuel. But, when I zero out my maft with the stock injectors, I run super rich and I have to tune with it. The stock ecu compansates for the 450's but I still have to tune with the maft. I'm still learning though.?

Ok thanks, tunethis your post helped.

I went over all the wiring and found that I had done it all correctly the first time and what was wrong was one of the grounds wasnt connecting correctly, the spliced wire came loose.

I solved it and got the car running and driveable
but though its working im running rich right now. I havent logged or checked fuel trims yet though.
The maf is zero'd out and set for 2g mas and 450s .

Something that may be possible is my higher fuel pressure causing the richness, though the chip is compensated for it with injector size? ( 48psi n/t fuel pressure )

Problem is I dont have a wide band, so I cant really tell, i can only hope/ guess that the chip is setting the fuel in the correct places, in which its close because when i dynoed last, the dynos wideband showed i was at 10.8 which isnt too far from the 11.0 set in the chip.

My afr should be about 11.0 at wot but its definitly going richer than that, the car is breaking up in the higher rpms which its never done before, and Im positive its because fuel, the plugs are fouling a lil bit. Its not really knocking bad though because my knock buzzer isnt going off at wot so I really doubt leanness.



Can anyone help me with why the car is running so rich now with the maf?

[chavez408]

Is it possible to run a gm maf and a translator and zero it out? I don't want one for tuning. I already got a wideband, link, eprom. I don't need another headache. I would just use it for more airflow, less restricted in the intake, and the bov goes pphhuusss.

[Black_Bullet]

Ok guys in my last post I was talking about how the car was running pig rich after I finnaly got the Maft setup up and running.

Well I did some logs and was getting 80 % fuel trims in all areas and im sure my AFR was in the 9s with the way it was running.

Then I finaly got around to boost leak testing it again for the 3rd time and sure enough one of the couplers to the back side of the maft had a leak. ( Air was already registered.)

So I had to redo the angle of my pipes because it kept blowing off when I boost leak tested it because it was at a crooked angle due to how I cut it.
I made sure to tighten down the tbolt clamps as far as they would go and I even put that sticky gasket spray stuff on the pipes so the coupler would have some more adhesive to stick.

Boost test held and the car was running fine again. Fuel trims back up in the high 90s ( a tad richer than Id like ) and the car was pulling hard again. It absolutely needs a quick retune, I can burn another chip for it tommorow, with leaner afrs, but it is close enough for now though.

** Differences over the maft vs my 2g-

Much more space to work with under the engine bay ( always a plus)

MUCH louder spool up and much louder blow off sound. I am venting for the 1st time EVER
( I am scaring ppl driving next to me. I feel like a ricer )

The car seems a bit smoother as it climbs rpms, and I notice a tad more top end
pull out of the car with anything over 20psi vs the way the 2g mas felt.
The gains were not very noticeable with boost under 17psi but when I put it to 21 it held it rock solid to redline which is a first. ( Used to always fall to 19-20 at 7k even with it up to 24-25lbs??)

I will aim for a 24psi 93 octane tune with up to 19degs timing advance by redline once I get these AFR's back in check.

I put a 2.5 in intercooler pipe for the intake. I just need to weld a nipple on it for the valve cover breather.
Hope it isnt too small, I doubt it though since the turbo is only like 2.25 " D.

[Black_Bullet]

Originally Posted by chavez408

Is it possible to run a gm maf and a translator and zero it out? I don't want one for tuning. I already got a wideband, link, eprom. I don't need another headache. I would just use it for more airflow, less restricted in the intake, and the bov goes pphhuusss.

Yea man, mines is zero'd out right now. My entire tune is thru the chip, and I plan to keep it that way. I dont feel to confident with tuning the maft honestly, but if I have to make tiny adjustments to help dial everything in then so be it.

[chavez408]

So what are you running gm maft and a translator? Where you there this from? Not many vendors carry them.

[Black_Bullet]

Originally Posted by chavez408

So what are you running gm maft and a translator? Where you there this from? Not many vendors carry them.

I got the maf from someone on DSMtalk on the classifieds, and I got the translator from a a local dsmer.

You have to run a translator to run the maf, that is how it operates it on our cars.
Our cars stock use the karman vortex air metering style, the maf's use a hot wire, the translator pretty much converts the signal into maf language i guess you can say.

The car is running pretty clean, I just have to do some tuning this weekend, my fuel trims are still all rich, and WOT afr is a tad too rich also, but nothing I cant fix. The spool up and the blow off noise is crazy, especially since my car is open DP with the cutout open.

*** Not like nobodys never seen a Maft setup before, but I have more pics so figured Id post em up. These are in the day time though.