The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

6 bolt swap dsmlink inverted cas

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

the_jester

15+ Year Contributor
150
1
Oct 12, 2003
parksley, Virginia
i am in the final stretch , all sensors are hooked up, cas wired, all hoses back on, fluids filled,
but i tried to turn her over and got nothing, i just wanted to turn it over to circulate the oil, the fuel pump runs because i realized i forgot to replace the crush washers, but now thats done, then i found a ground wire not hooked up and now thats done. i do have one sensor its kinda triangle shaped blue in the middle of the injector plugs, that i cant find where it goes, its not the a/c , i dont know what it is. i checked my chiltons and cant find it.
any ideas, what that is or why it wont turn over.
 
i can bet that "triangle connecter" is the connector that goes to your coil pack. without that being hooked up you dont get any spark and the engine will keep turingin over and wont start. i hope i get some rep points for this one.
 
arash15 said:
i can bet that "triangle connecter" is the connector that goes to your coil pack. without that being hooked up you dont get any spark and the engine will keep turingin over and wont start. i hope i get some rep points for this one.
LOL I would have to agree with ^^^^. I dont know if i have ever heard someone ask for rep point though.:p
 
That connector as said should be the coil pack connector. If it still doesn't turn over make sure that all the timing marks are correctly lined up. When I rebuilt my motor it was off by one tooth and would not start no matter how many times I tried, so I realigned timing and it fired right up.
 
thanks alot guys, i have been out of town and havent even been in my garage, i will try both.

i also had another question, if i have dsmlink do i still need to change the pins on my ecu or can i use the inverted cas option?
 
No there is an option to invert the cas in dsmlink, it is in the miscellaneous box, as is the ground timing which u will need to do once u get it fired up, to set the base timing.
 
the_jester said:
thanks alot guys, i have been out of town and havent even been in my garage, i will try both.

i also had another question, if i have dsmlink do i still need to change the pins on my ecu or can i use the inverted cas option?

I'm assuming you currently have DSMLink, so as posted check the box for Invert CAS and you don't have to swap injector wires at the ECU. You should also go to the DTC menu and disable random misfire to eliminate that issue before it starts. If you are running your stock '97 ECU until you get DSMLink, then you shouldn't have to change anything as the firing order is not changed.
 
i have just finished my 6bolt swap and am trying to get my car started and it turns over just fine but pops and sputters. i have wired up the cas but havent switched the pins i was told i could just use the inverted cas optuion on dsmlink, does anyone know if this is true or do i just need to go ahead and move the pins on the ecu? also i hope thisis the right forum, it is tuning related.
 
Swap your plug wires to the opposite coil. It should run even if the Invert CAS option is or isn't checked, mine does.
 
oh ok great, i wonder why the info i had told me i needed to change pins and all.
:thumb: well, i'll try that tommorrow.
 
olmytsi said:
Taylorspl is correct. There is no pin to be changed at the ecu.


There are pins that used to be swapped at the ECU to rotate the injectors 90 degrees out of phase. This is how us old timers did this before DSMlink was available. ;) Not necessary wth DSMlink, but this information is still out there for obvious reasons.

Edit> You can also swap wires at the ECU or at the coils to swap the coil triggers around, so you can continue to connect your plug wires the normal way. I had never tried this though, too lazy.
 
Simple to just change plug wires to 95 car setting since dsm uses 95 ecu. Thats what I had to do on my 97. Now I have COP but had to mess with wires on it to get the car to run. The invert don't do much in dsmlink. Maybe makes it run slightly smoother.
 
i do have dsmlink, but have no experience with it, i am still haveing trouble, i can get it started and it runs but when i start it up the rpms go up to about 4k and then they will fall until it cuts off, if i give it even a little gas it will run back up to about 4k again, it doesnt want to idle, if i keep it nrunning for awhile it will idle but its real rough, i put my 450's and 97 ecu back in, i am going to put the 95 and dsmlink in and play around with that and try to learn it some. if anyone has any suggestions, that i may have overlooked something, i have taken off all the emmisions, so i might have a vacuum leak. i was wondering because i have the three lines on the tb blocked well, one is going to my boost gauge, the other two are blocked, is that alright.
 
I would start off by checking all the usual suspects. Check timing, CAS position, and firing order. Also, if you are running the 95 ecu with dsmlink you need to make sure that the firing order is switched or that will cause you some problems. Also on the dsmlink program you could try "simulate idlesw", set your "idle rpm" and see if that fixes the problem. Let me know if any of these things solve the problem. I know when I fired mine up for the first time I was having a high idle as well, I checked all these things and checked for vaccum leaks and haven't had a problem since.
 
ok i am sooo close to getting my 6bolt swap finished, it actually will run but it wont idle i have to keep patting the gas to keep it running. the rpms climb to 3500, then fall and i have to hit the gas. i think it is a vacuum leak somewhere but i have no idea where it could be, i have duisconected all emissions stuff, so it could be something to do with that.

if anyone has done this and can point me in the right direction, pleeeeeeas help, it only took me a few weeks of evenings and weekends to do this swap and now i have been stuck like this for a month.
 
Check your timing,vaccuum leaks,etc...My tsi acted like that before I set the base timing after the rebuild.
 
ok, i did find a few leaks and pluged them, and its a little better, but still wont idle, i checked the cam gears and they line up. i dont have a timing light i need to get one bad. i checke the simulate idlesw and raised my idle rpm a little, but it didnt seem to do anything.
and another thing, when the rpms fall, and im patting the gas, or im getting someone to so i can listen, i hear a squeeking from the belts, but once it "catches" evrything sounds normal, but it just wont stay idling. its driving me crazy, i have only put 30 miles on this car since i bought it almost a year ago, i've had the engine out twice, once for spun bearing and once after dsm-onster blew it up. so actually he put a few of those 30 miles on it. and he drove it home after i bought it, so i probably only drove it 10 miles or so.
maybe i need a diagram of the vacuum hoses, maybe i have some plugged that need to go somewhere. maybe something on the emissions is causing this. i dont know
 
When you align your cam gears, check the crank pulley to see if it is lined up with the T on the timing belt cover.

My timing was off, my cam gears lined up but the crank was off a tooth.

Pics:

http://members.aol.com/olmytdadon/camgears.jpeg

http://members.aol.com/olmytdadon/crankpulley.jpeg

You can see that the small notch on the crank pulley is above the mark where it's supposed to be. It should be lined up with the first mark on that tab.

My car idled funny when the timing was off so check yours just in case.
 
olmytsi said:
You can see that the small notch on the crank pulley is above the mark where it's supposed to be. It should be lined up with the first mark on that tab.

Cam pic is great, easy to see. But I can't tell where the notch or marks are on that second pic. Feels like I'm not wearing my glasses when I look at that one...
 
See the raised the plastic tab?
Now look at the crank pulley at 10 o clock. See the lil white dot? That dot has to be aligned with the top notch on that plastic tab.

Just go to your own car and you will see for yourself.
 
i dont see that white dot on my car, i took my wheel off, and i see the raised tab, but i dont know what its supposed to line up with, i see your picture but there is no white dot on mine. please help i cant wait to get this thing running and tuned with this 18g and 650's, and awd she will be a force to be reckoned with
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 2g 2G DSM Link V3
    2G DSM Link V3 $600 + shipping and paypal fees* no cable included * cables are 75 on the...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • Wanted 2g Shot in the dark (2g Pass strut cut out)
    Need 2g strut tower to save time.
    • frosh29
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 2g 2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud
    2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud $200 + shipping and paypal feesYou must be registered to...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale VIRGIN 4G63 6-BOLT TURBO HEAD
    Came off a virgin stock AWD Auto 1G DMS (91), also have matching block and crank which are also...
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 1G DSM 4G63 6-BOLT TIMING COVER
    Used, see condition in photos. Buyer covers shipping / fees.
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top