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anyone got the lc-1 working yet?

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tstkl

20+ Year Contributor
3,889
76
Feb 10, 2005
SoCal, California
I have been trying to install my lc-1 and have been running into some problems. The unit is not getting power from my sources. first I tried a black wire with a white stripe down it that is under the steering wheel, and is rather fat. no good. next I tried a black wire with yellow stripes down it that leads to the cig lighter and that stuff. still no good. now I know I could try all 4 wires that lead to the cig lighter, but what happens if thats not my problem. right now I have the red wire attached to one of the two above places, the blue wire grounded on one of the screws by the ecu, (not an ecu screw, one BY the ecu) all by itself, with other stuff grounded to a screw near it (does that change anything) and the white and green wires are grounded together (whatever color it tells you to ground together away from the blue wire, I think green and white is right tho.) to the bracket that holds up that thing under the ecu that looks like an amp but isn't. the calibration wire (black) is attached to two wires, the led and the button that was included with the package. they are both grounded to the same place as the green and white wire. the brown and yellow wires are attached to nothing as of now, since they are simply the outputs and shouldn't matter, correct? thats all 7 wires, where did I go wrong? Im going to try using the led to find a source to tap into.
 
So the unit is not powering on?
Then your positive wire isnt working.

The grounds all to the same place will work but could cause a ground loop.

My brother installed his no problem, and he is no genius.
I'm pretty sure he tapped into the power wires running to the ecu.
 
I have been running my LC-1 for over a year with no problems. I tapped my power source from the ECU.

Use pin # 102 for 1G's.
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What are you using to "view" the wideband output? And, how do you know it isn't powering up?
 

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the led in calibration mode is not lighting up at all, so I guess its just a guess that it isnt powering up. thanks for the hint on pin 102

btw I dropped the actual sensor itself from about 3 feet, think that would matter at all? I hope not, it had the plastic cap on, but that might have shooken things up. If it can't survive a little fall, how can it survive me going over bumps at high speeds?
 
tstkl said:
the led in calibration mode is not lighting up at all, so I guess its just a guess that it isnt powering up. thanks for the hint on pin 102

btw I dropped the actual sensor itself from about 3 feet, think that would matter at all? I hope not, it had the plastic cap on, but that might have shooken things up. If it can't survive a little fall, how can it survive me going over bumps at high speeds?

If you dropped the sensor you can pretty much guarantee its broken.

They have a ceramic elemant inside and it doesnt take a whole lot to break, but if you did you should be getting a heater circut error.

Going over bumps doesn't take your sensor from 20 mph - 0 in .001 seconds.
 
sbiggi said:
If you dropped the sensor you can pretty much guarantee its broken.

They have a ceramic elemant inside and it doesnt take a whole lot to break, but if you did you should be getting a heater circut error.

Going over bumps doesn't take your sensor from 20 mph - 0 in .001 seconds.
shit.... well I spliced the power into pin 102 (red, right?) and the analog 1 into pin 15. Im going to see if lm programer will comunicate with it.
 
sbiggi said:
If you broke the sensor you can get a new one for $38 plus shipping
where, I've only seen it at 70+

I turned the car on and checked the logs and Im getting 20.5 afr, no matter what. my guess is that it needs to be installed correctly or something. do you want the led and button in parrallel or series? they are in parallel right now, I thought thats what the manual said...
 
the dude that told you pin 102 has a 2g... maybe thats the descrepancy...

Check vfaq for a better power source/pin number for a 1g.

Id also like to know where i can get a sensor for that cheap! I just put in my m-300 tuesday and its working great. But if it goes out after a while, id like to know where to get one that cheap!

Danny
 
so then why am I not getting a heater eliment code? if that was my only problem, thats the code I would be getting, but I get nothing at all. Im going to try and attach the puttter to it again, although its a pita to get this big thing into the garage.
 
taking it to paul tomorrow, hes going to help me figure this stuff out... if its the wideband o2, ill just have to return it for another one.
 
one last thing is, I installed all the software on my computer, but I can't find any way to change the com port. it just says, no port available, but won't let me choose a different port. I've hotsync'ed with my palm through this port, so I know I have a db9 port on this computer. how do you change it? I've gone through all the files, all the menu's, but can't find it. the only thing it will let me open besides the pdf files and html files is logworks 2. I cant open lm programmer or any of that stuff, it just says no port available and closes it.
 
tstkl said:
one last thing is, I installed all the software on my computer, but I can't find any way to change the com port. it just says, no port available, but won't let me choose a different port. I've hotsync'ed with my palm through this port, so I know I have a db9 port on this computer. how do you change it? I've gone through all the files, all the menu's, but can't find it. the only thing it will let me open besides the pdf files and html files is logworks 2. I cant open lm programmer or any of that stuff, it just says no port available and closes it.


have you tried reading the manual.? :rolleyes:
 
me and paul took everything out and put it back in, but changed two things. rather than using pin 102 as a power source, we used a fuse, and we also grounded the button and led to the ground wire (blue) of the wideband o2 sensor. it works now, so I just need to get the computer to change com ports so I can hook it up and set the scales. right now it reads 0 volts or I cut the wrong wire for pin 15. I just got my digital volt meter, and once I figure out which are the illumination wires, Ill be ready to install that and see if analog output two is reading 0 volts constantly. I think I just have to hook the computer up to it, because I touched the sensor and it heats up fine, and the led blinked like it was supposed to.

paul= god in my book, LOL.
 
I still can't get the com port to switch, I think I might delete all my other post in this thread so when people come they aren't scared off by all the posting I've done, and just see "how do you change the com port? In the manual it says when you open the program the window pops up, but that doesn't happen for me. I've gone through all the options, still can't find it"
 
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