07-21-2005, 03:26 PM
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#1 (permalink)
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Proven Member
Registered: Dec 2002
Posts: 31
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Problem with MAFT
so today i finally started my talon after a 20 month build anyway the car threw a CEL for air intake temp sensor so i resect the ecu and it still was there? Do u have to tap the purple and white wires comming off the translator box? Ive talked to several people that dont and they seem 2 have no issues at all. My idle is searching around it acts like there is no maf at all. The dip switches are set up for my 650cc inj. ect.... the safc is all set to zero but when i took the car for a test drive around the block it was kicking and bucking all over the place fuel psi is set at 39 lbs on a walbro 255.thx
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07-21-2005, 04:11 PM
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#2 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: duncan falls, Ohio
Region: Midwest
Registered: Jan 2003
Posts: 769
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you have to connect that white wire if you tuned it by rpm.it goes to the black wire on the cas.purple is just for n2o or some other gas,so that the mas adds/subtracts fuel.
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07-21-2005, 08:43 PM
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#3 (permalink)
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DSM Wiseman
From: Bloxom, Virginia
Region: Mid Atlantic
Registered: Jul 2004
Posts: 4,688
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Vtec Killer
The dip switches are set up for my 650cc inj. ect....
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WAit! your dip switches are only used to tell the MAFt what kind of GM MAF you have... 3 inch: all switches low. 3.5 inch: 1st one up. and so on. The KNOBS that turn and have about 18 "clicks" control your airflow frequency output and consequently your injector compensation. you should have the far left one at 2 and your next one to the right at 7 for 650s. For my 650s i could never get it to even idle unless i had the THIRD one over TO the right FROM the left (idle knob) full rich or to setting 8. I have PTE 650s (680s, 640s, no one seams to know for sure from my research  ).
____________________________
Matt
dd '90 GST, Holset H1C
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07-24-2005, 08:43 AM
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#4 (permalink)
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Registered: Dec 2002
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It's showing a code 12(on my logger) which is the mas im running a 3" lt1 mas everything is plugged in correctly checked the plug and all the pins are reading correctly. The maft is all set up dip switch is set on for #3 and 7 is selected for my 650 cc inj. white wire is tapped off my cas. Im kinda thinkin the gm maf is bad but i dont know any thoughts? or know how 2 test the gm maf? thx btw the maft is ver. 2.01
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07-24-2005, 09:10 AM
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#5 (permalink)
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Proven Member
Registered: Dec 2002
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ok so i just went out and started the cartried the different settings nothing changed. Cleared the code and still poped back up so i pull off the plug on the GM maf and nothing changed im guess the gm maf is bad does anyone know how to test gm maf?
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07-24-2005, 09:59 AM
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#6 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
Registered: Oct 2004
Posts: 291
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Have you tried swapping the stock maf back in?
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07-24-2005, 11:02 AM
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#7 (permalink)
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Proven Member
Registered: Dec 2002
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i would but i sold it a while ago
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07-24-2005, 09:37 PM
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#8 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
Registered: Oct 2004
Posts: 291
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Not sure on how to test it, but you can buy a 3" GM maf at advance auto parts, and I'm sure a few of the other chains. Advance stocks it, makes for a quick troubleshoot, not sure if the "reman" maf would be worse in some way, but that's a good way to figure out if that's the real problem.
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07-25-2005, 01:15 PM
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#9 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: Atlanta, Georgia
Registered: Jul 2003
Posts: 10
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If it is the 2.xx translator, I know there are LED blinking sequences that can be used to help troubleshoot problems. Maybe the translator is not getting power, no maf signal, etc.
The guide is available at fullthrottletech.com
troubleshooting section from the guide:
Quote:
Troubleshooting
If the installation and tuning does not progress as the steps indicate, the translator signals can be checked according to the following table.
Wires to MAF sensor:
Pink - +12 volts
Yellow - MAF frequency signal
Black – ground (0 volts)
Wires to Vehicle:
Pink - +12
Green – Translator frequency signal
Black – Ground (0 volts)
Brown – ATS (Air temperature signal, fixed at 80 degrees)
Gray – BARO (Barometric pressure signal, fixed at 3.9 volts)
White – RPM signal, connected to CAS sensor.
No LED blink at key on: check power feed to Translator, check connections, check fuse.
RED LED is blinking: The MAF Translator has internal trouble codes that are blinked out using the RED LED. The codes are as follows.
1 blink - in RPM mode, No RPM signal
2 blinks – no MAF signal
3 blinks – Internal Flash memory problem.
4 blinks – dial or switch problem
5 blinks – internal program problem
6 blinks – problem with saved settings.
7 blinks – unit detected a reset while the engine was running.
8 blinks – internal Flash memory reset.
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07-25-2005, 04:18 PM
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#10 (permalink)
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Proven Member
Registered: Dec 2002
Posts: 31
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yeah i reread the maft guide what fuse could they be talking about? the ign fuse? cause the car runs so im thinking it cant be the problem. i did the check for ign on both led's light up for about a second so that seems right and when ever i change the idle setting ie richness the red led blinks. I checked power to the mas plug ie factory wiring harness and according to haynes those numbers are correct. But there are not codes or anything comming out of the maft and the led dosent blink. Is there something simple im missing? thx again
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07-26-2005, 06:29 AM
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#11 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: Atlanta, Georgia
Registered: Jul 2003
Posts: 10
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Do you have a log of the car running and misbehaving? With airflow, IPW, O2, RPM, etc. That would help us see what the ECU is seeing.
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