MAFT WOT knob not leaning my AFR out? help..

[destrux]

I'm in the process of tuning my MAFT right now and I'm a little worried about how lean I'm having to set my WOT settings. I have the base one click leaner than it started out, my idle knob is 3 clicks rich, my mid is at zero, but my WOT knob is already at 4 clicks lean and I'm still at a 9.034:1 AFR on my wideband when I do WOT runs in 3rd gear. My trims are at 89% low, 92% mid, and 92% high, and while I'm doing any driving in closed loop mode the AFR is around 14.1:1 (which is normal I think). The second I go more than about half throttle and hit open loop mode the AFR goes to 10.01:1 and then richens up to around 9:1 at higher RPM. It was like that when the WOT knob was at zero, and now at 4 clicks toward lean it's still the same. I'd like the AFR to be around 10.5:1 at WOT. I'm also getting a moderate amount of tip-in knock (about 20 counts) , but the knock goes away shortly after the car hits open loop, so I don't think it has anything to do with how far toward lean I'm going with the WOT knob. Plus I can't actually hear the knock (and I always used to be able to when it was real knock), so it might just be phantom knock. I was going to try going a little more rich on the mid knob to try to get rid of the tip in knock, but the mid trim is already rich so I don't know if it will help or just make my fuel mileage go down the toilet.

So my main questions are...

Why does it seem like the WOT knob isn't doing anything... should I keep going leaner till it starts to do something?

Would it be better to keep the trims a little on the rich side, or would it be better to get them as close to 100% as possible?

Anyone have any advice?

My car is a 1g with a 14B turbo 16psi boost, ported exhaust manifold and O2 housing, 2.5" turbo back exhaust with a cat, 3" intake with a K&N, 2.5" upper and lower IC pipes with a stock 1g BOV dumped open, MKIV supra sidemount, blow-thru GM MAFT, 2.25" TB elbow, keydiver stage 1 chip with phantom knock code and octane sum reset, 9:1 compression bottom end, 3000GT VR4 fuel pump, stock 450cc injectors, 40psi fuel pressure, plugs are one step colder gapped at 0.28, base timing set to 8 deg btdc, 93 octane pump gas, Innovate LM-1 wideband O2 meter.

 

[Jetblack]

Your airflow tells the ecu what fuel and timing map to access when your driving. If you can't log your airflow then it's hard to see if the changes made on the maft is modifiying the signal the ecu is seeing. I'm guess even though you've moved the knobs in the lean direction it's not enough to change the fuel map. So either you can go leaner on the knobs if you can until you see a change or turn down the boost some which will give less airflow but could change the fuel and timing map giving you a leaner condition with more timing and possibly more power than a richer condition with less timing.

 

[destrux]

I did log the airflow, but it's different everytime because of the air temp, humidity, altitude changes, etc.. so I can't really tell how much change in the airflow readings the adjustments are making. I know they seem to change toward less airflow if I do several runs and average them, but that's not accurate enough data to tune with. I figured the wideband readings must be accurate and I turned it two more clicks lean and now the O2 readings are at 0.82 on the logger and at 10.2:1 on the wideband... and I'm getting a consistent 15-22 counts of knock now... so I'm going to retard the base timing to 5 deg (it's at 8) and that should take care of the knock. I just hate pulling timing... cause a better timing lead helps power more than a leaner AFR, but I dont want to foul plugs and the cat either.