Knock battle and phantom knock some positive results...!!

[AL92]

My car has been plagued by knock ,Knock off idle and not even into boost..and high knock thru the mid and wot even at low boost levels.I did have some success by totally drowning it in fuel but that made the car sputter bad and not run good wot at all.Lean it out a bit and back to the mega knock..talking like 20 plus counts.

So what did I do.I had done some little stuff before like tried mccc.Seemed to help slightly.I put restore in once but woudn't again that stuff looks like it would gum heck out of anything.

Anyway first new knock sensor.The old one did have all the stuff inside it run out.This seemed to help quite a bit but was still getting knocking just less than before.

I have new lifters to install but haven't thrown them in yet.But here is what I think might be the real cause of most knock that isn't detonation .The crank balancer.When they go bad and just found out mine did I think they add tons of knock.I got way way less knock today with new crank balancer on there.coincidence..well not sure but I thought my scanmaster wasn't working..like zero knock where always there was some before.I dont' have fmic and don't have my water /alco injection system even hooked up but sure I can now raise boost and run more without crazy knock.

Anyway if your car has 100,000 or more miles..change out that crank pulley.It takes only a few minutes and its well worth your time.

[94EclipseGST]

Where did you get a new crank pulley, and can you give a brief write-up on what was involved in changing it? THanks,

[AL92]

I got it from mitsubishi .It was 140 something canadian with my company discount not sure exactly how much that is in US think around 115 or so US .Its stupidly easy to change.You take off drivers wheel .You pull back or take off plastic shield same as if you were going to do a timing belt.You will see the crank pulley.It is held on with 4 bolts pretty low torque but might need to spray them to loosen them up with something.Mine came off fine without it. It helps to put the engine in gear higher gears work better to tighten them up and not sure to get them off.You need to stop the engine from turning backwards.Its supposed to not be good for it can make the belt slip a tooth but I have turned mine backwards tons of times and no ill effects at all.Jamming the flywheel would work but you would have to take off cover.Anyway you take out 4 bolts think they are 12 mm and you usually need to hit the crank pulley with rubber hammer or pry it off with screwdriver.I didn't even bother to take off the alt belt.And it went back on fine just put it around pulley first and then tightened pulley down.The pulley has hole that lines up with pin in crank sprocket ,make sure thats in right.tighten to 14 to 22 ft pounds.I used 22.I shoudl maybe have used blue loctite but didn't forget if they have lockwashers on the bolts.Will check tighteness shortly when do timing belt change and balance shaft removal.
I took maybe half hour to change it out on the driveway in zero degrees.It was pretty much cake.

Anyone with over 100,000 for sure should get new one.It can really mess things up when it goes.