Stroker article

Eclipse99GST · 02-14-2007, 05:34 PM

Does anyone have a tech article about how to put in a stroker kit? Was thinking of getting mine from Slowboy and wanted an article (like DSMJim did on the Magnus Install) about how to do it. Just wanted it for reference so I don't miss anything or any steps.

Thanks.

Erik

topstreet · 02-14-2007, 08:24 PM

Its a VERY straight forward install and assembly. What specifically did you want to know?

Off the top of my head... The only differences in doing it are Offset wrist pins in the piston, and the longer crank stroke. Outside of that there may be some grinding depending on which rods you use.

Some rods with bigger end caps require the main supports to be ground. I.E. Crower, Eagle, ect.

Some rods require a small amount of block clearancing at the bottoms of the bore. I.E. Pauter, Groden, ect.

Grodens also require the main cap bracing to be removed, and the oil pan to be dented out.

Other than these few things, it bolts in the same way anything else does.

Jake

topstreet · 02-14-2007, 08:27 PM

Forgot something.

Many times when you get the 2.4L crank it will have a dowel or centering pin in the end where the flywheel bolts up. This comes out very easily with a vise-grips and a hammer. I would not recommend heating it up with a torch. (I just dont like heating cranks)

Jake

GVR4592 · 02-14-2007, 10:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by topstreet

Forgot something.

Many times when you get the 2.4L crank it will have a dowel or centering pin in the end where the flywheel bolts up. This comes out very easily with a vise-grips and a hammer. I would not recommend heating it up with a torch. (I just dont like heating cranks)

Jake

Those are the automatic equipped 2.4's. I also use the vise grip and hammer technique.

Eclipse99GST · 02-14-2007, 10:50 PM

Thanks a lot guys. That did help me.

My car is automatic and front wheel drive. Would a stroker be best for my car?

Jake: If you get the block bored say 20 over, would you still have to grind and where do you grind? Is it best to bore the block out or stay with the standard bore?

Thanks

Erik

GVR4592 · 02-14-2007, 10:52 PM

A machinist can determine if the block needs bored to a larger size, generally the cylinder walls will have an excessive amount of taper that requires boring and honing.

JWoodley · 02-14-2007, 11:35 PM

You may find these useful:

2g 2.4L 4g64 7-bolt Bottom End Swap.

http://www.extremeevolutions.com/4G64_buildup.htm

Goodluck!

topstreet · 02-15-2007, 12:57 AM

Any time that I do a forged motor, I bore/hone it. Getting the proper clearance for the forged (as apposed to cast) pistons and to get rid of the taper or ovaling like was already mentioned.

You need to take a grinder to the very bottom of the bore. Not even the skirt rides right there so you dont need to worry about the pistons getting any kind of abnormal wear. But it is a good idea to make sure these are smoothed out and have no burrs. You will need to do this with a overbore. Grodens take the most, Pauters need only a small radius (because of the rod shape) and Eagles dont need any.

Personally I like using lighter rods on a stroker motor. Something like the Eagle. You could go with the aluminum rods (like I did) but there are people that shy away from these because SUPPOSEDLY they can flex or break. I really really dont want to turn this into an aluminum rod thread though. So if you are interested in using these, see what others have had to say about it by searching.

Long story short. If you are building a 600HP capable engine, dont use 1000HP parts. Most of the time you just add weight and cost. If you can keep the weight down on your rotating assembly, you will add life to the engine.

Personally, unless you are getting a good deal on a crank, I would lean towards an Eagle forged one. This is only going to further the life and strength of the engine. I bring this up because, the stroker cranks are getting harder to get your hands on. I got mine at a bad time because I got it during the shortage time, and before Eagle let theirs out. I ended up paying what a new Eagle costs now.

Good luck to you man!

Jake

Eclipse99GST · 02-15-2007, 08:22 AM

Thanks everyone.

Looking at my profile, is there anything in my mod list that would pose a problem if I would put a stroker kit in the car?

Erik

SBR Chris · 02-15-2007, 11:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Eclipse99GST

Thanks everyone.

Looking at my profile, is there anything in my mod list that would pose a problem if I would put a stroker kit in the car?

Erik

There really is nothing in your mod's list that would prevent you from using a stroker kit!

:-D

Chris

Eclipse99GST · 02-15-2007, 12:52 PM

Thanks everybody. This has really helped me.

Erik

drewbird91 · 02-25-2007, 07:35 AM

http://web.archive.org/web/200404050...smstroker.html
Good parts list article.

http://web.archive.org/web/200404210...m/stroker.html
Has pictures for the clearance and such.

DSMunknown · 02-25-2007, 08:16 AM

^^Nice finds.

Fitz7099 · 02-26-2007, 12:37 PM

Here is a link to my 2.4l thread.

4G63/4G64 2.4L Build - The List

I don't know how much of a help it will be as it is a work in progress, although it does have a nice complete parts list from what I have researched.