parts don't fit!

[erecker]

Hello,
I have a 92 6bolt block I've bored out to 87mm. I installed a 100mm stroker crank, ross stroker pistons(wrist pin moved up 6mm) and pauter 1g stock length rods.
The piston travel seems correct as it reaches 0 deck(TDC), and the skirt barely leaves the bottom of the bore at BDC.
I'm having a clearance issue between the rod and the bottom of the cylinder, at around the middle of the piston throw. The instructions for the rods from Pauter said this may need to be machined.
Has anyone else put together this combination and had this problem?? The instructions from pauter were not specific on wether the rods or the block need machined...I'm assuming the block, but due to where the interference is I'm not sure if there's enough clearance to grind it down without getting into water/oil passages. I marked on the rod the top and bottom point where it gets into this 'interference' zone, but I don't know how to do the math to see what angle and how deep the notches will have to be in the cylinder.

Anyone who would be willing to help me please let me know any other dimensions, measurements, etc. would be helpful to solving this problem...sorry, no pictures as I could barely get my eyes and flashlight in a good spot to see what was going on.

Slightly off subject but if anyone's interested in some pictures of ross stroker pistons with black skirt coating and gold ceramic top coating let me know

~Eric

[steel_3d]

Are you planning on doing this yourself with a grinder? If so then you don't need exact measurements. I'm sure you won't get anywhere near water jackets or oil galleries from the amount you need to remove. The only possible difference from your Pauters and what everyone else is running is the slight difference in the width of the rod. The geometry's exactly the same.

I would NOT touch the rods. Anything you do to them will create stress risers or weak points at best, making them prone to failure.

Why don't you call Pauter and ask them what they do?

[GVR4592]

This doesn't really relate to your question but how did you bore a 2.0 out to 87mm? Isn't that like .080" I've never built a stroked 4g63, but it's common with other types of engines to clearance the block to acoomodate the rods when installing a stroker crank.

[snox135]

Yes, just take a grinder too the block and make enough room for the rods. Just makes sure you disassemble everything first and clean it up real good afterwards.

[erecker]

Hi everyone, thanks for the replies. Pauter said the same thing, die grinder on the sides of the cylinders. it only ended up taking about 1/4inch down at a 45 degree angle to clearance things...now I'm rollin' back along putting rings and pistons in My only concern is since the grinding was done by hand and there's no measurement of actually how much clearance there is, if the bearings start to wear could it possibly start hitting rod vs. block?! Everything spins quite freely now I'm just thinking 20,000 miles down the road.
The block had already been bored to 40 over and there were some nasty scratches so I just had the machinist bore it to 80 to clean it all up. I was ordering the custom stroker pistons so going up to 87mm wasn't a problem. I'm not sure if it's going to affect longevity but we'll see.

[drivemusicnow]

Originally Posted by erecker

Hi everyone, thanks for the replies. Pauter said the same thing, die grinder on the sides of the cylinders. it only ended up taking about 1/4inch down at a 45 degree angle to clearance things...now I'm rollin' back along putting rings and pistons in My only concern is since the grinding was done by hand and there's no measurement of actually how much clearance there is, if the bearings start to wear could it possibly start hitting rod vs. block?! Everything spins quite freely now I'm just thinking 20,000 miles down the road.
The block had already been bored to 40 over and there were some nasty scratches so I just had the machinist bore it to 80 to clean it all up. I was ordering the custom stroker pistons so going up to 87mm wasn't a problem. I'm not sure if it's going to affect longevity but we'll see.

Well, bearings do not "wear".

Common misconception is that bearings are a friction part. They are not in the motor. Your crank/rods float on a film of oil. The minute metal touches metal you have a problem.