I honestly can't decide, long rod 2.4L or stock rod length!

[Verticaljump1]

Goals: Beat the crap out of the car , running a 3065 now, but probably 3575 (absolute biggest I will go), and run 10's at 5800ft. elevation. It's going to cost me $1350 for 156mm pauter rods and custom ross pistons, or $730 for 156mm pauters and $550 for Wiseco pistons to match. So I'm looking at a $1300 minimum to do the match. Or should I just do the stock rod length/piston combo. If I do, it'll be Scat/Wiseco. Either combo will see 8500rpm revs at the track (that damn 3575 won't spool reasonable boost until 4,000'ish). Honestly I want a set-up that can take all that the 3575 can make (hoping for 650whp, that's what it will take to hit 10's here). I don't want to have to watch my back when I'm running 40lbs. of boost. Honestly I'd rather spend $800 and get the scats/wisecos and have enough for coated engine bearings, and maybe even a knife edged crank, but if they can't keep up to the task I'll have to pass. Realistically, the car will hardly be at the track because it's 100mi. away. On the street however, the revs will be set to 8000rpm and below, and around 27lbs. of boost (91 octane with methanol injection). I wouldn't ask for your guys' help if I didn't need it, because this is a really tough decision. Either way I have the money to build it though.

 

[AL92]

I am finishing up a 2.4 but just went with crower normal length rods and wisecos.I got the crowers cheap cheap and barely used so couldn't turn that down.I went with coated acl bearings,still deciding on using arp main with dowel kit or just stock main bolts.Head nothing fancy right now.No porting or fancy valve jobs worry about mabye a nice head later.Just bread and butter head,new guides,manley valves,
crower springs ,hks 264/272 cams got them cheap as well.
Planning on FP3065 want to stay BB.Have JM SMIM and get evo ported exh big fmic and good clutch. I figure should pretty easily hit 11s on the street and high 10s would think would be doable on very occasional track visit.Actually if hit 11.5 get kicked off my nhra track unless put in a cage and not planning to put one in.
I think the long rod and all that is overkill to get what you want but hey whatever.Evil eagle is doing some great times on his 2.0.

 

[Suparata]

Any of the 3 setups mentioned will be capable to run 10s. The better the rod the safer you will be though. Don't forget that the rods are the second most abused components in an engine and I would rather spend the money for those instead of knife-edging a crank.

 

[Rick@AP]

If you can't get a FP3575 to spool before 4000rpms on a 2.4 you've got a serious problem. My 2.3l spins it up *almost* as fast as it did the FP3065 (24-25 psi around 3500rpm). I'm seriously considering going larger to get a bit more lag.

I would also opt for the long rod combination as well. The 2.4l and 2.3l engines tend to tear up the cylinder walls over time. By increasing the rod length, I've found that this is much less likely to occur as side loading is reduced.

Lastly, coat everything you can and use Swaintech if possible....good cheap insurance.