1G help! car cranks but wont start!

clipse this · Nov 23, 2003

tuesday night, it was raining pretty hard, I drove my 1991 mitsubishi eclipse gs-turbo home from work, about 25 miles. The car drove fine, idled fine, no problems what-so-ever. I got home, let it idle about 1-1/2 minutes, then shut it off. Nothing out of the ordinary. When I went to start it up 15mins later, it wouldnt start. It cranked, and then it turned over but it was like i let go of the key too fast, because it stalled. So I tried to start it again, all it did was crank. It cranked normal, wasnt slow or anything, just like normal. Anyways I eventually pushed it into my garage and checked under the hood. When I went to take my keys out of the ignition after pushing it in, I noticed a rapid ticking coming frm behind the radio. When the key was in "Start" position, I would hear this noise, and it went away as soon as I would turn the key to "off" position. Anyways I decided to check the plugs and the fuel lines first. All 4 ngkbpr7es plugs sparked fine, and fuel came out of the fuel regulator. But the car would not turn over. The next night I sprayed starting fluid into the throttle body, and cranked it, and the car started right up. I drove it about 10 miles, on city steets, to the highway, and then back to my house, no problems at all. When I shut the car off, everything was normal, went to turn it back on, wouldnt start, only cranks. The ticking went away and that isnt there anymore. Even after spraying more starting fluid in the TB, wouldnt start. I went out and got some ngkbpr6es plugs, and that didnt help any. I replaced the injectors with injectors from a 90 laser 1.8 n/t, I read in the service manual that they are the same for the 2.0 engine too. Nothing worked, So I just swapped the computer from the laser (to see if my computer was the problem) and tried to start it, but i think the battery is pretty much dead because it cranked slow and wouldnt start. The computer I took out of my car smelled very faintly of fish. I'm all out of ideas and Nobody else I talk to seems to have any idea why this car could run perfect 1 minute and then 15 mins later not run at all. Any ideas? The car cranks, there is spark, it is getting fuel, it is getting air, but wont start. please help!

leet · Nov 23, 2003

If your ECU smells like fish, chances are you have some dead capacitors on it.

95awd · Dec 13, 2003

did you figure the problem out. im haveing the same problem. but mine will start after about 10min of trying to crank it and will run fine, then after i cut it off it wont start up again. :confused:

BUCK · Dec 13, 2003

I noticed a rapid ticking coming frm behind the radio. When the key was in "Start" position, I would hear this noise, and it went away as soon as I would turn the key to "off" position.

CLASSIC SYMPTOM - ECU is my bet too - it won't be starting at all soon - it'll just flood the cylinders & crankcase with gas so beware~!

My90Eclipse · Dec 13, 2003

I too would say your ECM is toast. I had the same problem, but my engine light was on and was running rough then would not start, then would start but run really rough, barely drivable. So after replacing almost every damn sensor under the hood at my local mechanics shop, nothing worked. It sill ran lousy and would not start at times.

I also got the clicking behind the radio (where the ECM is located) which is the noise of the relays resetting.

I finally decided to take it to a Mitsubishi dealer and sure enough my ECM was gone.

I was told that due to high heat levels over a long period of time the capacitors inside burst and leak onto the board causing the ECM not to work properly and throwing an Engine light. I was put in contact with a company out in texas who repairs them and warranties them for one year regardless of mileage. It cost me another 375 bucks and they just rebuilt the one I had in my car, but however, if the liquid in the capacitor sits on your ECM's PC board too long, it will actually rot the board and you will need to replace the entire ECM.

If your ECM does need repair, contact these people:

Automotive Computer Supplies
2280 East Main
Suite B7
League City, TX. 77573
888-326-8646

www.ecmtogo.com

Dont be afraid to take out and open up your ECM to find out if in fact you have leaky Capacitors!!

Good luck, I hope this helps!!

95awd · Dec 14, 2003

Just found out the problem. You guys where right i took a look at the ecu and one capacitor was leaking. But i had no ticking sound or any funny smell. but i will conform it as soon as i put a differnt one in, and see if thats the real problem

UNSANE1 · Dec 14, 2003

I am having same problems to the "T" Except the 1st thing I did was replace the ECM, I was able to find a replacement at the local autoparts for $325 it was a reman, but after the install still nothing, possable bad rebuilt ECM??? I have spark, fuel pump is kicking on (Feel the vibration at the tank) Reattached broken ground strap from Neg batery terminal to body, only other thing I can think of is bad fuel pressure regulator, or fuel filter(which is beeing replaced tomorrow, doubt it's it though) or maybe crank angle sensor, dont think that's it either though, oh well if anyone has a clue please help, hopefly it is just a bum rebuild...I really hate to have to take it in for something so simple. AS it is it's dead at work, dont want a hillbilly to tow it to the dealer...Any n all help is apreciated...

My90Eclipse · Dec 14, 2003

Hey, UNSANE1, Where did you have your ECM rebuilt? The place where I sent mine, are known for their work on these rebuilt ECM.s I wouldnt put another 325-375 to it just yet though, but if your engine light is/was on, then have it checked to see whats throwing it.

Chances are it will lead you in the right direction, and when you do find out why its on, then Mud test the sensor and make sure its working properly before replacing it. If it is working properly, then it could be a bad ECM rebuild.

Good Luck, You'll get it.

UNSANE1 · Dec 16, 2003

Funny thing is that the check engine light never did come on, only when I 1st turn the key on before actually starting it, and for a few seconds after I start it whch is to my knowledge normal......Iono, and no I didnt have mine rebuilt, I got a allready rebuilt one so again Iono????

Boostin16gGSX · Dec 16, 2003

well unsane.....funny u should mention the angle sensor....cause that was the reason my friends car wouldnt start for awhile.....so we decided to go get the one off of my car and put it on his....and the car started right up.....but my first guess would always be the ecu.....thats normally the first cause of all our problems....

UNSANE1 · Dec 16, 2003

Thanks 90, I really dont think it is the angle senser cuz my oil pan dont have gas in it, I finally broke down and took it to a michanic to have diaginostics run on it, they say fuel pump relay.....Fuel pump kicks on, but aprentally the relay also tells the injectors to turn on???? Sooo...We try this, will keep updates....

nickrule99 · Dec 17, 2003

my car just stared doing this too, but I have a 97 GST. Could it be the same cause?

My90Eclipse · Dec 17, 2003

Well Nick I wouldnt think so because your car is quite new, but sometimes it could also be the Mass air flow sensor as well. The mass air flow sensor measures how the outside air is and makes its adjustments for the correct air and fuel mixture to fire up your engine.

If it is not working properly, then it can tell your ECM that the outside air is 70 below zero which will make your car not want to start.

Also, check under the hood and make sure all of your wires and battery cables are hooked up tight and check to see if there is anything loose that could be making your car not start.

Sometimes slight continuous vibrations can wreak havoc and make something come loose over time.

Check it out and when all else fails, have your ECM tested to see what the problem may be before you go replacing parts in your car.

Good luck!!

95awd · Dec 17, 2003

update, I put a different ecu in and solved the problem for one day ran good and everything. the next day it wouldnt start up again. i check the ecu and seems to look ok. know im clueless. i put in different coils, crank angle sensor, ingition module. and nothing. :confused:

My90Eclipse · Dec 17, 2003

95AWD: You have to be careful when using another ECM from another car. Pretty much, the engine has to be the same as your car. including engine displacement, timing, fuel injection, pretty much the same exact engine.

If not the ECM will tell your engine to run at different timing, fuel air ratios Etc:

That could be why your car ran for one day and then now nothing.

if your original ECM has a leaking capacitor, then contact the people I posted in here about and they will rebuild it for you prividing that the liquid has not rotted the PCB too badly.

if it has, they do have cores that the can rebuild for you still cheaper than if you got a new one.

Good Luck!!

mitsutuner · Dec 17, 2003

I wish I hadn't read this thread because I just put in a rebuilt ECU today in my 91 talon TSi turbo & now I'm worried it won't start tomorrow, but it runs today. The night before my ECU started to chatter, it had been raining & I ran the defroster--next day after the ECU starts to chatter, I realised the defoster was on, full heat & fan was off. I think this was a contributing factor in the ECU failure because the ECU is located right next to the heater box,(instead of under the front pass seat where honda puts it) & unlike the ECU that's in your PC, it has no cooling fan!
Okay, this might help you, where they rebuilt my ECU, they checked it for inputs & outputs to see if 1 of the inputs may have contributed to the demise of the ECU. Primary suspect is the ISC, idle speed control motor-they even have a disclaimer on the 2 yr/unlimited mileage warranty. On the warranty seal sticker on it it states "if the box to the left is checked, you must replace the ISC motor before installing the ECU or the warranty is void". The box was not checked on mine, so I'm not replacing the ISC, however when I talked to the tech he said it was always a good idea to replace it as it was a common cause of ECU toast.
Another linked factor is the BISS, base idle set screw O-RING leaking air & causing the erratic idle of all types. In my car- repeaded rapid revving up & down over & over, usually for about a minute, somewhere in the warmup phase after a cold night. The rubber washer around the adjusting screw deteriorates over time-hey these cars are 12-13 years old. It's just a cheap little O-ring that you could match up at home depot, but, you don't have to replace it--just cap off the screw barrel on top of the screw--some guys pack it with RTV--I just put a rubber cap over it- the cap does not make a tight seal around the outside of the screw barrel because it is somewhat square shaped, but it does hold the cap down tight enough to seal off the top of the barrel.
I had my ECU fixed at ZDR Electronics in Orlando Florida. Because my board so damaged, no core value & they had to replace it all, for which they charged me $295 + $100 core charge=$395.

helldeapth · Oct 16, 2007

hey i am having a similar problem the oil line slipt off and it drained of oil so i put it back together put new oil in and its cranking and getting fuel and spark but wont turn over at all.. i checked my oil and it smells harshly of gas.. what would cause this? when the oil drained out of my oil cooler the car just died no sounds or anything so i think its ok but its cranking totally fine and makes no wierd noise.. I also replaced the spark plugs.. Any help?
morgan

mitsutuner · Oct 16, 2007

without oil in the motor to seal the piston rings you will lose compression & since gas was applied, your cylinders might be seriously flooded.
try this;
remove spark plugs & clean or dry as needed,
remove fuel pump or fuel injecter fuse,
crank motor for 15 sec to clear gas from the cylinders,
put a teaspoon of any type of ATF in each spark plug hole,
re-install plugs & fuse.
try to start the car-may have to crank awhile
if it starts a big blue cloud will come out the tailpipe so
have the car outside & chase the kids & elderly away first.

helldeapth · Oct 22, 2007

have you tried this before? could my cam angle sensor CAS be screwed? i am going to try the atf method i hope u mean normal oil thought not automatic transmission fluid cause i would need to know
thanks

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1G help! car cranks but wont start!

clipse this

leet

95awd

BUCK

My90Eclipse

95awd

UNSANE1

My90Eclipse

UNSANE1

Boostin16gGSX

UNSANE1

nickrule99

My90Eclipse

95awd

My90Eclipse

mitsutuner

helldeapth

mitsutuner

helldeapth

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