Can anyone point me to a link on the web to get installation instructions for a pyrometer in my talon? Should I stay pre turbo or post? I heard somthing about cylinder 4 running hottest? Which is cylinder 4 looking at the front of the car.

Thanks for any replies.

Go to http://autometer.com/hp/ and click on instructions. Then go under gauges and find the EGT intstallation instructions. As far as tapping is concerned you want to do it in the #1 runner of the exhaust manifold. With the hood open and looking at your engine this will be the runner on the manifold that is farthest right, aka the "drivers side" of the manifold. Good luck.

OK Here is my thought on manifold vs dp egt install.

I always install in the downpipe vs the exhaust manifold. Your basic Autometer EGT reads 1600 deg. When the probe is in your exhaust manifold you could get readings as high as that and not have to worry. If you listen to everybody and put it on the hottest cylinder then you will definately peg that needle.

Now what happens if something is wrong? Your EGT is pegged already so if your running 50deg hotter your not going to know. Well the needle will just move past 1600 right? Well yes and no. Talk to autometer about this one. They say that even approaching 1600 deg the gauge is not very accurate and definately past 1600 it is not. What may look like 50deg past 1600 ( or 1650deg) could very well be 1700 deg. But because you put your probe in the hottest spot you could find you'll never know.

What the acctual temperature is does not really matter. As long as your getting constent reading from the gauge is what matters. If you put it on your exhaust tip and it reads 200 deg all the time then fine. Just make sure you dont see 210deg cause that could mean problems. NOw obviously this is not ideal, but you get the idea.

What I always say to do is run it in the downpipe and always install your EGT on a car that is tuned perfectly so you know where it should sit on your car when it's properly running. If you want to know the difference between a manifold reading and behind the turbo I have generally found that you need to add 150deg to the reading if the probe is behind the turbo vs the manifold. Then your EGT will sit at ~1400 at WOT and if you run into a problem you have 200 deg of room left on the gauge to read it. It really doens't matter what the guage reads as long as it doesn't change when your tuning or driving around. If you get a different reading then you know there is a problem.

Those gauges are not even close to accurate so trying to put it on the hottest cyl for an accurate reading is nonsense, your only fooling yourself. Put it wherever you want but put it far enough away from the head that you have some type of room to go up on the guage so you can see if there is a problem. Having it pegged at 1600 deg under WOT becauese you put it 1 inch from the head doens't leave you a lot of guage left to see if there's a problem.

That's a really great idea, Jim... I would have never thought to put it on the DP for the sheer fact of innacuracy on the temperature readings. I might look into that; I just bought my probe from TRE yesterday.

Good post, Jim. One thing I'd like to add, tho...Putting it post-turbo also saves you from buying a new turbo along with a new probe when this one falls apart and get's ground up by your turbine blades. So along with a bit of headroom in the gauge accuracy, you also don't have to replace your turbo and your egt sensor.

I agree 100% with DSMJim. I mounted mine in the downpipe as close to the O2 housing as I could. Also, I'm not completely sure (it's been a while) but I believe my Autometer instructions said for turbocharged cars, mount the probe after the turbo, but as close to the turbo as possible. I think that's what it said, but dont quote me on that one. If you're curious, Autometer posts their instructions on their website.

Originally posted by 99gst_racer
I agree 100% with DSMJim. I mounted mine in the downpipe as close to the O2 housing as I could. Also, I'm not completely sure (it's been a while) but I believe my Autometer instructions said for turbocharged cars, mount the probe after the turbo, but as close to the turbo as possible. I think that's what it said, but dont quote me on that one. If you're curious, Autometer posts their instructions on their website.

Click to expand...

"2. If used on turbo model, mount probe after turbo unit."

They say so right there... Makes more sense considering thier gauge only goes to 1600F

Interestingsince I am putting mine on now....Should have known and put it on while I was stock still so I knew what it was supposed to be at in temp.Now I will have to putit there and run it for while to see what its "normal" state is ..... Will be fun to watch though and see what can be done*S*
How close to the flange of the O2 shoudl it be mounted then..as clsoe as possible or...?

Originally posted by EuroGSTSpyder
Interestingsince I am putting mine on now....Should have known and put it on while I was stock still so I knew what it was supposed to be at in temp.Now I will have to putit there and run it for while to see what its "normal" state is ..... Will be fun to watch though and see what can be done*S*
How close to the flange of the O2 shoudl it be mounted then..as clsoe as possible or...?

Click to expand...

Yeah I mounted mine like 2" from the DP flange, it was very easy to mount and there is still room for "readability" on my Autometer gauge.

i still have the stock downpipe so i think i am going to go ahead and mount it on there i don't really like the whole idea of mounting it before the turbo anyhow. i have the ana autometer pro series kit for the probe part #5243.

I see the point of putting it after the turbo and all but what happens if you have an o2 housing with an external dump? The exhaust is flowing out before the probe and you cand read that temp...

I have a GReddy pyrometer... goes up to 2100 deg F (1200 C). I mounted it in the exhaust manifold about 6inches from cyl 1, like in the VFAQ.

My autometer guage only goes to like 900 or 1000. I am guessing it is in celcius and not farienhight. Could that be right?

Here's the gauge from the vfaq. Looks like it goes to 1800 degrees. http://www.westach.com/images/showcase/2C2S-EGT.jpg

Originally posted by flinguist
Here's the gauge from the vfaq. Looks like it goes to 1800 degrees. http://www.westach.com/images/showcase/2C2S-EGT.jpg

Click to expand...

Correction. It only goes to 1700 degrees.

Originally posted by EuroGSTSpyder
Should have known and put it on while I was stock still so I knew what it was supposed to be at in temp.Now I will have to putit there and run it for while to see what its "normal" state is .....

Click to expand...

The problem is, it's not this easy. As a matter of fact, the temperature you see with a good tune is definately not going to be the same as it was when the car was stock.

EGT varies so much with timing changes, that you can't really judge it based on anything but what you usualy see when you're SURE your car is running well.

Originally posted by DSMJim
Now what happens if something is wrong? Your EGT is pegged already so if your running 50deg hotter your not going to know. Well the needle will just move past 1600 right? Well yes and no. Talk to autometer about this one. They say that even approaching 1600 deg the gauge is not very accurate and definately past 1600 it is not. What may look like 50deg past 1600 ( or 1650deg) could very well be 1700 deg. But because you put your probe in the hottest spot you could find you'll never know.

Click to expand...

-This is only true if you use a Autometer gauge, Greddy(mine) goes to 1200C (2192F), but above 900C (1652F) is in red zone, I want to know the combustion temp as precise as possible so I can run the A/F ratio without melting any aluminum.

Originally posted by turboholic
-This is only true if you use a Autometer gauge, Greddy(mine) goes to 1200C (2192F), but above 900C (1652F) is in red zone, I want to know the combustion temp as precise as possible so I can run the A/F ratio without melting any aluminum.

Click to expand...

Lol, if your trusting your pistons to an EGT gauge your in for a big surprise.

To make sure things don't melt, Timing and A/F are your biggest concern. If you have timing and A/F right your EGT will be right regardless, but you can have descent EGT and have less than perfect A/F and timing cause less HP then you could be making. That's sorta working backwards.

I find EGT to be a pretty useless gauge honestly, and I could live without it. I have a wide band 02 and a pocket logger to watch timing. To be perfectly honest I can never remember looking at my EGT while going down the 1/4 mile.

Originally posted by DSMJim

I find EGT to be a pretty useless gauge honestly, and I could live without it. I have a wide band 02 and a pocket logger to watch timing. To be perfectly honest I can never remember looking at my EGT while going down the 1/4 mile.

Click to expand...

Exactly, i just pulled my brand new EGT in favor of a oil pressure guage. timing knock and Air fuel are a much more effective way of tuning.

I thought the EGT was more of a safety device (prevent melting piston) than a tuning tool. Is that correct?

Originally posted by flinguist
I thought the EGT was more of a safety device (prevent melting piston) than a tuning tool. Is that correct?

Click to expand...

Sorta, not really. It's a preventative measure gauge. By the time you notice that it's up way to high you probablly are already letting off cause you felt a slight stumble from the motor. That slight stumble was the skirt on a piston getting pushed through and metal flying down the chamber past your crank in to your oil pan.

The only time I find an EGT helpful is when I'm racing on the highway and I can check to see if everything is running fine. I find the highway is where my EGT's really build up if I'm running 140mph+ it really goes high. For 1/4 mile you don't really get the chance to build enough exhaust temp cause your changing gears so oftin and it only lasts for a few seconds. Highway races that go on for 15 miles of going really fast and slowing down to 120mph then back up to over 150hpm is where things get cooked.

Originally posted by flinguist
I thought the EGT was more of a safety device (prevent melting piston) than a tuning tool. Is that correct?

Click to expand...

It is a good tuning tool when in the correct hands. Some "god" on here once said it was useless so everyone followed suit. If they are such useless gauges why do so many racing vehicles log egt's? Because they provide valuable information for tuning. They should not be the only thing you tune from.

someone asked a question that i am curious about as well. if you dump your WG to atmosphere, will it affect the egt temp if you sensor is post turbo?