Heh every one. I was informed today that my TSI AWD is only a 3 cylinder. My #1 cylinder has 0 psi compression, so I did a leakdown test and had 100% leak down. I stuck my ear up to the exhaust and could here air coming thru. DAMN!! I was just starting to get excited I ran a 12.8 on the old trusty G-TEch the other day and wanted to go to the track and prove it.. and I was to get my car to the track this weekend. Glad I did not pay the entry fee

I guess I will just have to rebuild the whole motor. Ohh well.

My question is to the people who have built motors before. What are you running??

I see two options here:
1) Build it to the teeth. (forged pistons, rods, lighten knife edge crank, ect..)
or
2) do the 2G pistons on the 1G big rods.

My car will be a semi daily driver. with the plans of using Nitrous in the future.

I would like any thoughts you have on this matter.

It all depends on your goal. I think its very hard to beat the bank for the buck of a 91 rod 95 piston motor. I also think cast pistons are a better suited to daily driving then forged. I did a stage II head 91 piston 95 rod motor with all the goodies for about $2500. This should reliably hold 500hp as long as you keep detonation down to a bare minimum. I think you would just about double that if you went with Eagle rods and Arias pistons. That motor would be more forgiving of bad tuning but it would run a bit rougher that has been my expirence.

OK.. How long have you had your 91 rod 95 piston setup?? I have seen that that combo is good for 500hp, but for how long is it good for??

wow.. what cuases a complete loss in compression?

when the 1g rods "fail" its usually because of the BOLTS. The rods themselves were not the cause of the problem. My advice to you would be use 90-91 "big" rods with ARP hardware and 95 pistons.

I’ve had my motor maybe 8 thousand miles. I just put it in back in Febuary.

I have not tore the had off yet, but I have either bent a valve (doubt it) or I burnt (or warped) a valve. Most like I burnt a valve. I think it has been this way for awhile now. IT was before I had an EGT gauge. I goes to show what happens when you do not have the proper gauges to monitor your motor.

I did not notice this problem until I just installed my web cams and then the motor would hardly idle and had a hard time starting. I have known that my vaccuum at idle was a little high. I would guess that was the problem.

from my experience it sounds like you burnt up a valve. there is also the chance that you put a whole in the cylinder but i doubt that is what it is. i say it sounds like valves.

i agree, burnt valve

i was just lookin at what you said and you said you could hear it leakin out the exhaust. it then in turn is a valve

i feel your pain man, i had that exact problem. i actually had a hole in one of my exhaust valves. so i put in another motor and i am building this one for the ultimate street/strip motor. since i am a 1g im staying with my rods, but im gonna go with the 2g pistons. i think this makes for the best street car. now put in some nice cams and remove those balance shafts and you will have a free flowing motor. also put in titanium valves/springs. it reduces your chances of floating a valve. good luck, and have fun on your rebuild.

What size of turbo do you have on your setup??

The one I am looking at is around a 60-1 compressor wheel and plan on maybe next year using Nitrous.

if your talking to me.....


on my car now i have a 16g, but with my new setup im gonna run a 20g or fp green. havent decided yet. but those both are nice turbos. and you can get your lag down to a minimum. also, if you run a lightened flywheel then you will rev better so lag isnt as big of deal, but it reduces the streetability a lil bit.

IF I were going to run a 50 trim or smaller (I have and old school mutt with a 50 trim now.) I would most likely do the big rods and 95 pistons, but since I am planning on running a bigger turbo and lots of boost with the possibilty of Nitrous I think the Forged pistons and stronger rods are the way I am going to go.

As far as spool goes on the turbo I have now. In 5th gear I get full spool before 3200 rpms. I am betting that the newer mutts with the t3 turbine wheel should spool a 60-1 down low enough to be streetable.

If I was to rebuild my motor, I would use one of the stroker cranks that are out there. I've seen both 2.3 and 2.4 liter versions. More displacement, more power.

ya your gonna need those forged rods the way your going. im looking to get a 400 hp car that is street driven. your looking more at 10's i bet. i was thinking of putting on a t3 that i now have, but then i bought a t4, and now ive changed my mind again. selling the t3 (if anyones interested)

I have thought about the stoker idea before and have asked a couple of people and they brought up a good point.. Sean Glazer still runs a 2.0 liter motor and make tons of power.
That is more than enough for me.

Also I have some concerns about the extreme rod angles and the posibility of the piston getting cocked in the bore ( I forgot the technical term )

Killerquake.

What trims do you have in your turbo. Is it a Full t3, t3/t4 or full t4??

I would be happy with a 11 sec car I can drive and enjoy every day. I do not go to the track very often. Some thing alway seems to break or happen right before I plan on going.

well i have 2 turbo's. a full t3 and a full t4. the t4 im keeping as of now, but the t3 has a .60 compressor wheel and a .48 exhaust wheel. and looks like this:

NIck - Wow man, I can't imagie what your car will run when it's on all 4 cylinders! Maybe I'm only running on 3 too!
Let me know when you get your parts