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carbon fiber hood install

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rollindsm

15+ Year Contributor
98
0
Nov 28, 2003
overland park, Kansas
how much work is it to install a carbon fiber hood, I think i can do it but wanted some one else opionin so is it do able in my driveway?
 
i would hope you can do it in your drive way. it should only take 2 people. all you have to do is take the bolts off which are i think 10mm. they are located at the bottom of the hood when you OPEN the hood. take those out line up new hood put bolts back in. DONE
 
Originally posted by 97eclipseRS
i know its been said before but i forgot, where can you go to have hood pins installed?:dsm:
Same driveway you used to install the hood. It's an easier job than the hood install.

Perhaps you should put off the CF idea for a few more months. Your grasp will only broaden. Next time you see a car with a CF hood, stop and talk to the guy about it. He'll probably help.
 
I've done 2 write-ups in the tech articles......I should do my third on this topic. :D
It's easy...you don't even need another person to help you do it.......

Tools/Supplies (For hood installation):
Carbon Fiber Hood (VIS) :thumb:
Ratchet/Wrench
10 mm socket
WD40 (For stubborn bolts)

Tool/Supplies (For Pins):
Drill w/drill bits
Smallest wrench you can get your hands on!
White out/Vaseline (anything that will leave a small mark)

Step 1:
STOCK HOOD REMOVAL
Gather your tools & start prep work. Since I did it myself, I used the hood prop as my "helper". Grab your wrench or ratchet (w/10mm socket). There are 4 of these bolts, if you're having a hard time w/the bolts, break out the WD40 and go at it from there. I did the passenger side first then the driver side, so the prop would keep the hood up. Keep in mind that the stock hood is HEAVY & as the last bolt starts to come loose it will start to buckle a bit. Let the prop down & hold it up. Once the last bolt is free, take off and rest it on something i.e. grass etc. to avoid scratches.

Step 2:
CARBON FIBER HOOD INSTALLATION
Grab your C/F hood and match it to the bolt holes. Start by hand tightening so you can get it to sit right. Grab your trusty prop and that's more than enough to hold the hood up. Tighten and do fine adjustments until you're bolted up.

Step 3:
GETTING THE HOOD TO CLOSE PROPERLY
Usually with your stock hood, it was fairly simple to close your hood. Now with the C/F hood, it's a bit more delicate. I've seen people crack their hoods because they ignored this VERY SIMPLE STEP. Most companies put bolt on latches where the stock latch would be, so that you can adjust it left or right (VIS has this). You'll need to fiddle with the latch til you get it just right. Patience is the most important factor. Take your time & do it correctly the FIRST time to avoid cracking/breaking/whatev. Once this is done, it may still be a bit of a chore to close the hood (mine is notorious for this)....so being gentle is a plus. Once you have it set, re-tighten bolts so that it stays. Close the hood so the latch engages. If everything looks good, hop in the car and pull the latch release to make sure everything is in good working order. If it works good. If it doesn't pop....then you're up Shit Creek with no paddle.

Step 4:
Hood Pin Install (Optional, but HIGHLY recommended)
Find a good mounting spot on your car, i.e. beside the front headlights etc. Check the bolt size of the pins and match with your drill bit.
Drill hole, insert pin and tighten. Once the pin is tightend, put a few drops of white out/vaseline on the top. Close the hood, it should leave a mark for where you need to drill.

Step 5:
Drilling The Hood
A delicate procedure, but can be done by a novice. I used a painters mask & goggles because of the MASSIVE amounts of c/f dust etc. that comes out when you drill. Carefully drill out the holes, be sure to keep to the marks you made prior to drilling.
Once drilling is complete, close hood. With hood closed, slip over the metal plate that covers the gash you put on it and screw the plates in. Once that is complete, you're pretty much done.

Step 6:
Clean The Car
You can't have a nice improvement like a c/f hood & have a vehicle covered in dust. Wash her & go pick up some chics/guys or whatev.

Hope this helped someone!
:thumb:
Phil
 

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the only cf hoods worth buying are the ones that use the latch that came withthe car. hood pins are S*I* they rust before you now it. Look for CF hoods that have a steel plate built in for latch support.
 
Originally posted by Redmachine
the only cf hoods worth buying are the ones that use the latch that came withthe car. hood pins are S*I* they rust before you now it. Look for CF hoods that have a steel plate built in for latch support.

My c/f hood is a vis hood, the latch is just fine, it's been holding up pretty good. My hood pins are SPARCO (stainless steel = no rusting). Besides, too many folks I know, even on here can tell you how $20 pins could have saved them over $2k in damage. Even if they are APC or whatev, it's not worth dying from a car accident. Besides, it says on the hood:
FOR OFF ROAD USE ONLY
HOOD PINS REQUIRED
:thumb:
Phil
 
doesnt matter what brand hood you get..NEVER drive without hood pins correctly installed. Trust me..you WILL eventually step on the gas and you will not be glad if the hood pops in highspeed....:|
 
Is it possible to just run the hood pins without the latch? Are the hood pins that strong?
 
Not another black hood on a painted car, I hope you paint the hood and not think you are cool because you have a carbon fiber hood.
 
don't bring up the whole unpainted hood vs painted hood flame war again. It was locked before. He asked about installing a carbon fiber hood.. Simple, end of story..
 
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