changed my fluid in tranny regular 85-90 gear oil in it i think that was a no no fills hard and stiff does not grind will not slid into gear . i went to the speed shop and purchase royal purple syncromax as any body used that

GM syncromesh fluid. GL-5 based fluid. GL-4 has additives that will wear the syncros faster.

It's around $10/quart.

Never GM, Pennzoil Synchromesh instead- SAME stuff, even has the GM part number on its label. About $4.50 a quart, Auto Zone.

Originally posted by Defiant
Never GM, Pennzoil Synchromesh instead- SAME stuff, even has the GM part number on its label. About $4.50 a quart, Auto Zone.

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Wow Defiant, I see you preaching this product all the time. You must love this stuff after you heard it from me huh? I can't blame you cause so do I hehe

I definatly vouch for the gm synchromesh....just drained it to throw in some synergyn oil today. the gm oil came out nice and clear without any pearly color to it(no shavings)...so Id say it works. Now onto the synergyn....that stuff is THICK! kinda like honey...heard lots of good stuff, but well see on how it wears.

Morph: GM syncromesh fluid. GL-5 based fluid. GL-4 has additives that will wear the syncros faster.

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Actually the GL 5 has the additives that supposedly wear the Bronze Synchros 50% faster - NOT the GL-4 - I am POSITIVE I read that in a Tech Article somewhere.

I had trouble finding something that was JUST GL-4, fnally went with Valvoline 80w-90 Non-Syn that said GL-4 or 5. Somewhere someone said Synthetic was bad for the Viscous Couplings - THEN the D-Man said the Viscous Couplings are sealed - so HELL - Why aren't we all using Synthetic in the Trannys? The Synthetic Gear Oil (Valvoline) I use in my 66 Mustang is GREAT - it's an unbelievable difference!

Originally posted by turbodsm90
Now onto the synergyn....that stuff is THICK!

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Well that makes sense seeing as how

Syngear II is an 80w140, GL-6 rated gear lube blended from the highest quality base oils and extreme pressure additives.

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isn't that way too thick for our trannies? And GL-6?? How does that play with our brass synchros?

Also, Defiant, you seem to know a ton about Synchromesh products. What is the weight of this product? I seem to recall there being manufacturer comments about it being a thin oil.

Stock is 75W90, is synchromesh equivalent?

Originally posted by BUCK
Actually the GL 5 has the additives that supposedly wear the Bronze Synchros 50% faster - NOT the GL-4 - I am POSITIVE I read that in a Tech Article somewhere.

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I'd swear the GM syncromesh I'm pitching, and the Pennzoil Syncromesh Defiant is pitching, are both GL-5 based. Same with BG's.

The above information was given to me from Jon at TRE. He swears by it. Even wrote on my receipt to use the GL-5.

I might have it backwards. Maybe the GL-5 has additives but better ones that provide better friction on the syncros. Which in turn, means that the job the syncros are doing happens quicker. This then equates to LESS wear, because the syncros are taking less time to match the speed of the tranny to engine. Which would be why the trannys shift smoother.

I know from my experience with rear limited slip diffs on GM trucks, that those additives make a world of difference on the operation and performance of the diff. Night and day.

So, anyway. I don't have any oil sitting here in my apartment. Can anyone verify the GL rating on the syncromesh fluids?

From somewhere on a 3/S page:

Pennzoil-Quaker State Synchromesh is a unique transmission and transaxle fluid that is not API "GL" rated. It has an approximate gear oil grade of about SAE 80W and can be used when temperatures range from -40ºF (-40ºC) to 300ºF (150ºC).

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Synchromesh has been said to be "Yellow Metal Friendly" -- should be safe to use with our brass synchros

From Redline:

GEAR AND SYNCHRONIZER WEAR PROTECTION
Most manufacturers of manual transmissions and transaxles recommend an 80W or 90W GL - 4 lubricant. GL - 5 gears oils which are required in hypoid differentials are not used in most synchromesh transmissions because the chemicals used to provide the extreme pressure protection can be corrosive to synchronizers, which are commonly made of brass or bronze. Typically, the use of a GL - 5 lubricant in a synchromesh transmission will shorten the synchronizer life by one half. The extreme pressure requirements of spur gears and helical gears found in transmissions are not nearly as great as found in rear-wheel drive differentials. A GL - 4 lubricant provides adequate protection for most manual transmissions, unless a unique design consideration requires the extra protection of a GL - 5.

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information overload!

Originally posted by b00sted99-X
Well that makes sense seeing as how

isn't that way too thick for our trannies? And GL-6?? How does that play with our brass synchros?

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Synchro reaction doesn't _seem_ to be an issue. At least, it's not been brought up as such from what I've seen on here in a year of posts.

Also, Defiant, you seem to know a ton about Synchromesh products.

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I only know what I read in the pixels:

http://www.pennzoil-quakerstate.com...te/Gear&Transmission/pdf/SynchromeshFluid.PDF

What is the weight of this product? I seem to recall there being manufacturer comments about it being a thin oil.

Stock is 75W90, is synchromesh equivalent?

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No weight is given on the packaging- my ballpark guess would be about 50-60, going between what came out and motor oil.

Many are using it, essentially no one is having issues with it, and in the Pennzoil bottles it costs less than $20 and 20 minutes of drain-and-fill to try. It takes longer to read through the comments about it.

Cool. I learn something everyday!!! and I stand corrected. According to Redlines site, their oil is GL-4 based. GM doesn't have any info up on their site and I can't find any data for BG's. For that fact can anyone find a web site for BG's? It is known that the GM's, BG's, Redline, and Penszoils are all "modified" with a friction additive.

Below is info pulled from VFAQ, the 1000 already answered questions portion:

"
My transmission shifts poorly. Is there a fix?
Search for this topic now!

Poor shifting is a hallmark of 1G cars. 2G owners have vastly improved transmissions, and do not generally suffer from bad shifting. If you have a 2G that has shifting problems, you must read this vital information regarding possible problems with crankwalk on the 2Gs.

For 1G cars, there are several fixes. There are also several TSBs on this problem, for various years. Check the NHTSA site for TSB information. Remember, TSBs are neither warranties nor recalls.

Solution #1 came up in 1992 when the first TSB called for adding a 'friction modifier' to the transmission fluid. The modifier increases the frictional coefficient of the fluid, so the synchronizer rings (synchros) match speeds faster. There have also been several synchro design updates throughout the various years, intended to improve the crunchy shifting. Of course, to take advantage of these requires a transmission rebuild.

Many DSMers end up using Redline MTL, BG Synchroshift or GM Synchromesh in their transmissions. All of these fluids have the same purpose - to increase friction, just as the Mitsu fluid modifier is intended to do. Most owners report at least some improvement with the new fluids, but most experience significantly better shifting. Opinions and experiences vary.

Recent experience suggests that Redline MTL gains in shifting performance by sacrificing synchro longevity. This is not exactly news, but more and more owners are reporting this problem with MTL now that there are alternative fluids available. Many owners considered the tradeoff to be well worth it. However, more people are now recommending a mix of Redline MTL with MT-90 gear oil, to combat both problems at once.

Poor clutch disengagement has recently become a suspect for poor shifting in DSM cars. Refer to the poor clutch disengagement checklist (below) for more information.

Problems have sometimes been found in the shift linkage as well, leading to the Tighter Shifter Page (90-94) that describes how to rebuild the linkage in 1G DSMs for improved performance. Kyle Jones even found that an incorrect aftermarket lower radiator hose was interfering with his shift cables and causing crummy shifting; cutting the hose shorter did the trick. "

from all info gathered thus far, it seems GM / Pennzoil / Quaker State etc etc etc are NOT GL rated.. they are simply GLS (Gear Lube - Special) to conform to GM/Chrysler specs. Moreover, this Synchromesh works fine with some trannies outside the GM family, maybe not as well with others. The closest they seem to be if you have to classify them is GL4/5 leaning toward GL4 tendencies to play nicely with "Yellow" metals. This really isn't nailed down anywhere but there are bits and pieces floating around out there that allow these conclusions to be reached. Bottom line is they seem to work fine in our trannies even though they are thinner oils than the factory recommended 75W90. Try it if you like, many many others already have, and with positive success. Good luck

I won't use anything but BG Synchroshift (which is a synthetic oil). It's expensive, but nothing makes my tranny happier.

I put in some dino oil 70w80 Valvoline or somewhere around there, and it made my tranny just about undriveable when cold. Now it's perfectly fine.

Frankly, anything but that stuff is going to be thrown in transfer cases only.

BG II is synthetic... Original BG is conventional. They are different part numbers and also a thinner oil than factory, probably why your shifting is easier in cold weather.

I checked into the spec called out on the Penzoil. Chrysler Specification MS-9224 requires a minimum of a GL-4 fluid. I'm still researching this to see what info I can find on the Gl-5 fluids within Chrylser.

Yes - the manual has similar verbage - It's the Tech Articles that have the negative stuff about GL-5 - We are making progress here - Now what's the real deal on Synthetic in a DSM Tranny??

Somewhere someone said Synthetic was bad for the Viscous Couplings - THEN the D-Man said the Viscous Couplings are sealed - so HELL - Why aren't we all using Synthetic in the Trannys? The Synthetic Gear Oil (Valvoline) I use in my 66 Mustang is GREAT - it's an unbelievable difference!

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1. Synthetic is GOOD for our trannies

2. GL-5 is BAD for our synchros

Originally posted by cait sith
I won't use anything but BG Synchroshift (which is a synthetic oil). It's expensive, but nothing makes my tranny happier.

I put in some dino oil 70w80 Valvoline or somewhere around there, and it made my tranny just about undriveable when cold. Now it's perfectly fine.

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You meant gear oil, right?

I used some basi 75w90 gear oil, and then this stuff alled limited slip additive it is like a 4 0z bottle, made by mopar, even synroshift wasnt helping. this little concoction did me wonders, i also drive a fwd, and you would think limited slip additive? But, wow it really helped. I learned this trik form a guy at a dealership he drives a 90 laser turbo with like 150k on original, unbuilt -90- tranny. and we all know 90s arent to great so. If anyone is up for trying something it is heaper than bg or pennzoil synchro shift and works wonders.

Originally posted by weible
I used some basi 75w90 gear oil, and then this stuff alled limited slip additive it is like a 4 0z bottle, made by mopar, even synroshift wasnt helping. this little concoction did me wonders, i also drive a fwd, and you would think limited slip additive? But, wow it really helped. I learned this trik form a guy at a dealership he drives a 90 laser turbo with like 150k on original, unbuilt -90- tranny. and we all know 90s arent to great so. If anyone is up for trying something it is heaper than bg or pennzoil synchro shift and works wonders.

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where can i buy this "Limited Slip Additive" the BG Syncroshift hasnt helped my going bad syncro's as 1,2,3 are etchy as F#ck. Help i want some! Can I drain a little of the BG out and add this to it?

Is this what your bottle of Mopar Limited Slip Additive looked like?

Since nobody has asked it, when you switch to penz. syncromesh, do you guys run it straight or do you mix it w/ the 75w90?

Put the Penz. Syncromesh in straight, dont add anything to it

okay newb question, how do i drain and change the trannie oil? same way as an oil change i would assume. Jack the car up take off a cap let it drain, cap back on, pour in new trannie fluid?

I had my car jacked up to get to the bolt next to the wheel, but as soon as it starts drainging I let it down. I fill it with the car down. I use BG also.