Well im about ready to call it quits here, so i need some input from some people that are running a Fidanza flywheel and a ACT 2600 on a 6 bolt motor. Preferably people who have had their flywheel for over a year as i know Fidanza has redone some of their flywheels w/ some different specs recently.
My problem is that the clutch will not fully disengage enough to pull shifts @ higher rpm's and that sitting @ a stand still in gear when reving it'll creep @ about 4k. Which is really pissing me off because i was really looking forward to hitting the track this year but obvioously this problem is a big obstruction
Details...i've had the trans in and out about 4x now trying diff things to make this work. So far i've replaced the master cylinder, slave cyliner, TOB, clutch and pressure plate, clucth fork(the one the TOB attaches to), and clutch pedal assembly all w/ no results. I've bled the system multiple times, got the master cylinder rod adjusted all the way out and still w/ no luck. @ this point im starting to look @ the flywheel as the case of the problem as it's the only thing left that has not been replaced although i sent the flywheel back to Fidanza last week and they replaced the friction plate and stepped it to .610 but still no posistive results. So anybody who's got any input on this or similiar experiences/fixes, lets here them as i badly wanna hit the track this year. Thanx.

Nick

one thing to check.. I know this sounds crazy but check to make sure your clutch lines arent getting over heated and essnetially boiling your clutch fluid which would cause the clutch to slip BAD.. it just happens to be whats going on with my car right now since my o2 housing has a nice hole in it

No, thats not the problem, cuz it just refuses to work for me no matter what/when. Im honestly clueless as to what the problem is if it isn't the flywheel. Im ready to drive the car off a bridge and collect insurance.

dont do that either.. i had an accident with my Celica.. a real accident and my insurance company accused me of fraud.. its not a situation you want to deal with

I'm having the same problem, I don't have the flywheel or that clutch but, responses to my previous post suggested that I adjust and/or bleed the system again.
If I can fix it this weekend I'll post what I did, if not we're both SOL.

Since your clutch is only catching slightly you probably need to restep your flywheel. You said you have it stepped to .610, that's wrong...it needs to be .612. That might not sound like much but it is. Check for yourself on ACT's site at http://www.advancedclutch.com/v3/flywheelstep.html

Your clutch master cylinder adjustment rod is adjusted incorrectly. You have it adjusted so far out you are over throwing the diaphram (fins on the pressure plate) That actual caused the clutch to re-engage! Adjust the clutch adjustment rod back in. (a correctly adjusted clutch rod should have the min. 1 inch free play at the top of the pedal and you should be able to spin the rod with your fingers to adjust it after you released the lock nut) As you adjust the rod, push the clutch down periodically it seems to equalize the pressure in the system.

No, i dont think that the master cylinder is being overdone. Reason is ay this is because if that rod gets thread back in any further the clutch will not disengage @ all and the car is undriveable. As it sits now its @ least somewhat driveable. Also it seems as if the slave is not quite traveling its full throw. It seems to only be throwing to about half way or a little over that across the gap in the bell housing where it connects to the fork.

How far off the floor does your clutch start to engage, and how far from the top does it start to disengage? Do you have free pedal on the top?

Engages immediatly off the floor. Basically so low that if you're siting in 1st and rev to 4k w/ the clutch in, it'll start creeping. I have the avergage 1" or less freeplay @ the top. And if you're gonna suggest pedal assembly, i've already replaced it. Got any solutions?? Thanx.

Nick

The stock step for your cars are .610 +/- .002. When I got my TRE trans they told me to recut to .600 to .605. Iam running Fidanza and 2600 clutch on a 7 bolt ( don't think that makes a differance here) and it seems to help.

Hmm, i got a trans from TRE also but they never mentioned changing the step height. What factors were added in so that you had to change the step height? It seems to be that all the 2600's w/ the 7 bolt fidanza's work fine, but i have heard from a few different people that they were having problems w/ their 6 bolt fidanza's and 2600's, so i guess i dont know what to say here....

Umm, I don't know what factors would have made it any different. This is a copy of the material they sent with the trans.

Some reason the attachment did not work. Anyways it was in the info they sent me with the trans in about 3 different places.

I grind in 1st
I grind in 2nd
Sometimes 3rd
Ocasionally 4th

I've bled the clutch 4 times now after replacing the clutch master cylinder. It feels looser every time i use the clutch pedal and I know for a fact it's not leaking. This is a factory setup so far, and the clutch is in good condition. If you even barely let go of the clutch pedal the car launches forward. You can stick you foot under the pedal and lift it up about a good 2". At this point I don't see any reason to adjust the clutch switch closer to the pedal because the action is to tight already.

How much time to drop the tranny?
Is this a throwout bearing problem?

Thanks in advance

Guys, I didn't read the whole thread, but once I saw ACT and disengagement issues, I knew that you would probably benefit from reading this thread...

I had the same problems you guys are describing and I changed everything... including different tranny, clutch master cylinder, slave, clutch line SS, and it all came down to replacing a worn Clutch Pedal Assembly

Read this thread all the way through http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=17797

HTH

Also, if any of you guys read your ACT 2600 pamphlet closely, it warns that you "may" have to change your clutch pedal assembly... which are known to take a dump once an ACT 2600 is installed

Here's a question for you guys. First off I don't know really anything about clutches or tranny but I'm doing some research now on it.

Well I just got a ACT 2600 installed in my car with a better tranny(Stock). What I'm haveing problems with is my clutch is engaging almost at the floor. I grind alittle in 3 gear but all the other gears are good. What could be my problem with the clutch engaging almost at the floor? I got the clutch done a week ago from a good DSM mechanic and the clutch pedal didn't move up. I'm replacing the shifter fork and pivot ball soon. The shifter fork is bent alittle bit. That's what I was told was my problem was the shifter fork. Any suggestions would be great. Thanks for the space guys.

DanE

A bent fork could definetly be the problem. Who told you that the fork was bent, if it was the mechanic that installed the clutch he should have know better and replaced it. The ACT 2600 is famous for this problem, that's why they have so much info for your cars in the brochure that comes with the clutch. I strongly suggest that you do everything they say in there.

Did you bleed your master cylinder before you put it in the car? Air in those check valves will cause what is happening to you.

The problem was fixed some time ago. i ended up going back to a stock flywheel and everything worked perfectly. I went threw 2 Fidanza's. The 1st one caused me problems pretty much from day 1. They ended up sendig me a second because there was a supposed problem w/ them back in the day. The second one worked for a little while until i got off the dyno it started to have disengagment issues again. I finally got fed up w/ the problem and tossed the flywheel and replaced it w/ a stock one and haven't had a problem since.

Also on the 1st flywheel i spun the rng gear of it. After pulling the second one out i noticed that the flywheel had spun half way past the retainer bolts holding it on. So w/in a few more starts it would have been spun off just like the 1st one leaving me stranded again.

Nick

Originally posted by Turboniam
Guys, I didn't read the whole thread, but once I saw ACT and disengagement issues, I knew that you would probably benefit from reading this thread...

I had the same problems you guys are describing and I changed everything... including different tranny, clutch master cylinder, slave, clutch line SS, and it all came down to replacing a worn Clutch Pedal Assembly

Read this thread all the way through http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=17797

HTH

Click to expand...

As Turbonaim states, a major source of low pedal actuation will be a worn pedal assembly. I installed a ACT2600 on one of my 90's and within a week the clutch had overworked and worn my pedal assembly enough that I couldn't shift it. Don't put another unit in. Pull the one in your car and get it welded. The bracket on the end of the torsional shaft will fatique and induce slop in the bracket/shaft interface. The only way to solve it is to weld it. I attached a pic of the end you need to weld.

Another key with the ACT2600 is the step height. If you have a TRE tranny, Jon recommends machining the flywheel to .605 and shimming the fork pivot stud. I forget how much Jon shimmed it, so call Jon at TRE. He knows how to set them up correctly.

what exactly do u weld in that pic?

Originally posted by btrux06
what exactly do u weld in that pic?

Click to expand...

Blue area on attached pic.

thanks, i think i noticed on mine i do have a bout a 1/16 or more in of play, u think that would causs my hard to disengagement problems with my new act 2600 i just installed? grabs a inch or less of the floor and gears grind at high rpm shifts.