I don't know exactly what you are talking about but if it is the strap around the rca cable to ground then you can make your own show a pic please.

Also you should move this to apperance interior and exterior section.

Here's the link:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...RK:MEWA:IT&viewitem=&item=230069844620&rd=1,1

Why would this be in appearance? It's an electronic issue????????

this is why. This is what it said directly below the title All discussions that are non-performance related; body kits, conversions, paint, lighting, alarms, CAR AUDIO, washing, waxing, etc.

Also I have heard of those for prefomace but never for audio so I don't know? I suppose since it would ground better it would make a difference by a little bit but not really that noticable but you never know.

You could just get some 4g wire and make your own kit - http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=75889.

While you are at it, upgrade the alternator wire to 4 Gauge too.

I don't know about the voltage stabilizer - the voltage regulator in the alternator should be enough.

I reread this may be a preformace issue as well you were right

1990talon said:

I reread this may be a preformace issue as well you were right

Click to expand...

No problems..

I'm curious because my friends swear by these things........

Those doesn't really do anything.I had it before on my car and took it off.No differences at all.
I heard this really work though.This is what I am planning to get next on my list.
http://cgi.ebay.com/D1-Spec-Voltage...ryZ72205QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

the grounding kits won't seem to work if u don't have any grounding issues,if you do,then yes they will offer lots of benefits

I Just Intall That Kit That I Posted Up Earlier.it Works Pretty Good To Me.

DGajre777 said:

You could just get some 4g wire and make your own kit - http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=75889.

Click to expand...

I don't much like Ron's write-up regarding this. I prefer these found at EvolutionM:




http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=240408post#8

DSMunknown said:

I don't much like Ron's write-up regarding this. I prefer these found at EvolutionM:




http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=240408post#8

Click to expand...

did you end up doing a diy grounding kit based on the one found at evolutionm?

nycxjoey said:

I Just Intall That Kit That I Posted Up Earlier.it Works Pretty Good To Me.

Click to expand...

What type of gains did you notice when you installed that thing?

I use to get 13.1 to 13.3 on my red top Optima battery.Now I get 14.1 to 14.3 just on standby alone.I have a small system running 2 amps.(one 400 watts & 920 watts)The lights use to go dim if I turn the system a little louder.Now I don't have a problem at all.As for saving gas wise.I only see a little differences,maybe a few miles more.I do feel a little more power with it.But of course it is much better than the one from your honda friends.
Plus it has a really cool blue light that comes on to shine on your engine once you open your hood.

These results are NOT typical but I added a grounding kit to my car and went from 12.3@107 to 11.8@117. I think the car had a terrible grounding problem. I didn't change anything else on the car. Even the tune was the same. I also ran during the day and in hotter weather. Don't expect every car to gain that much but I did.

i've narrowed my choices to the buddy club and d1 spec kits? Will post results after i get it installed.

I think the Buddy Club kit is a little on the small side as far as the gauge of the wire. Also, the light on the stabilizer never turns off. I used the Sun Auto kit without the stabilizer with great results.

denniegst said:

did you end up doing a diy grounding kit based on the one found at evolutionm?

Click to expand...

I'm just waiting on some heat shrink tubing. I'm thinking about doing a write-up of my own.



Why do you ask?

The gain is ok,but for saving gas size.The first bar usually went up to 60 something miles.Now I get 90.But this is all highway miles though.(don't know if that info would mean anything)

DSMunknown said:

I don't much like Ron's write-up regarding this. I prefer these found at EvolutionM:




http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=240408post#8

Click to expand...

What do you dislike about his write-up? I read through the one's that you linked too and they don't differ much. What do you sugest should be done differently?

xioca said:

What do you dislike about his write-up? I read through the one's that you linked too and they don't differ much. What do you sugest should be done differently?

Click to expand...

1. If you plan on the "daisy chain" method, I would recommend you solder one entire chain together. Remember, you can have multiple daisy chains when grounding your car. It seems pointless to me to not solder a long chain together. As you can see in the first picture in this link, the longest daisy chain has each zero-gauge terminal lug soldered to two separate 2-gauge wires.
   
   Now let us assume that the longest chain mentioned above was not soldered together. Let us also assume that the first or second terminal soldered/crimped to the 2-gauge wire was very shoddy. Assuming that this was a poor ground, that would make the rest of the chain almost irrelevant. Therefore, the use of one large lug (the zero-gauge terminal lug in this example) must be soldered to both wires, instead of having two smaller lugs that connect externally (aka two terminal lugs that are in contact with each other, one on top of the other).
   
   Don't get me wrong, there are also problems (as I see it) with the first EvolutionM link that I gave as well. For instance, EvoIXMR (the author of the DIY write-up) clearly suggests that you should essentially crimp the lug and then solder the wire to the lug. Let me say this - soldering the lug to the wire is more than enough.
   
   Now let us assume that some car enthusiast (who is not familiar with soldering techniques) comes along and decides to follow the EvolutionM write-up. However, he decides to solder the wire first, and then use a vise to crimp the lug. This is a big no-no in my book. When you fill a lug with melted solder, and the solder dries, the solder is in a fixed state. That is to say, it is not going to move around without some serious outside force. Putting it in a vise would constitute as a serious outside force. Now remember, the solder is hardened, and is holding the lug and the copper wire together. If the lug is squeezed (aka crimped) together, guess what will happen to the hardened solder. Give up? It will break up (aka shatter), just like a rock statue when it is hit with a demolition crane ball. What does this mean for that "solid" connection he was trying to achieve? It means that the connection is not as solid as it was before he used the vise.
   
   
   
2. I would have liked to of seen more pictures regarding Ron's write-up.
   
   
   
3. Ron forgot to mention that one should use some sort of eletrical flux or paste when soldering the lug to the wire. This is extremely important. I highly suggest you use some when building a DIY grounding kit.
   
   It just takes a short trip down to Home Depot or your local hardware store to pick some up. The model code for a Home Depot product is KH506.
   
   Here is a quote from the Home Depot website:
   
   

   
   About the Lincoln Electric Welding/Brazing Flux
   
   A paste used to promote the fusion of metals when applied to surfaces to be joined by brazing or welding. Cleans metals of oxides to promote their union. Water soluble general purpose flux helps clean the metal and keep it clean during the brazing process. The flux also acts as a temperature indicator letting the operator know the optimum time to add the filler rod.
   
   
   • General purpose flux for welding and brazing
   • Promotes fusion of metals
   • Cleans metals of oxides to promote fusion
   • A staple for welders
   
   
   Internet/Catalog #100341116
   Store In-Stock SKU # 796254

   Click to expand...

I see your thinking of it, yet I think you fail to see if you follow his write-up, there shan't be any weak links. As long as you install it and make sure everything is nice and snug there will be no issues. One thing that I don't understand is why the need for such a large gauge wire ( yet I'm installing a 4 gauge diy grounding kit myself). This seems overkill to me and I am unable to see a need for any ground to be that large. Even if one was to only crimp the terminals, and do so poorly, there still is more than likely going to be enough for a good ground ( not saying you should skimp on any of your connections). As long as you use common sense when putting it together his write up demonstrates how it is done, and will be on par with any other ground kits, if they use the same grounding points that it.

I'm just curious but why the #### would you ground the exhaust manifold COVER? Seriously...

Get all the power outta the turbo.