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Please help with highway cooling, Im ready to cry.

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siceclipse

20+ Year Contributor
1,681
12
Jun 26, 2003
FFLD County, Connecticut
In advance, Please dont ask what my cruising temps were before FMIC install


Please help me.
It wont stop.
I noticed the higher temps after the FMIC install (33x9x3, tube and fin) from Extreme Intercoolers

Temps will go to 203-206* sometimes 210*

this usually happens when cruising on the highway and when i decelerate the temps come back down a little (like 5-6*)

I cut the black strip out of the top of the bumper for improved airflow. (99 Front end)
Made new ducting for the bottom of the front bumper.

replaced Cap, Thermostat, upper and lower hoses
Flushed rediator, water wetter added, probly at 70/30 water/coolant mix.

Last night i worked for 5 hrs taking out the A/C condensor.
I wired both fans together and dissabled the compressor clutch by dissconnecting the plug.
I made completely NEW ducting for the BOTTOM, TOP, and SIDES of the intercooler radiator
So there is a dedicated hallway for air to flow down and into the radiator

freash Head rebuild at 115000 and im at 130000 now.
Cometic HG and APR headstuds installed at the time.

No bubbles in water and no oil in the overflow tank.


any more ideas??
am i missing something or overlooked another possibility?

Im going from Connecticut to Vermont on Sunday (4-5 hr drive)
If you have any ideas or clues fire away

Thank you,
:dsm:
 
Your temperatures are consistent with exactly what I'm seeing on my logger. I wouldn't worry unless they continue to climb.

Remember, the ECU doesn't pull timing during a WOT run until you hit 206 degrees, so you are well within the "safe zone". I'm guessing that you have a logger, so you might want to set up an alarm to alert you if the temps go above 213 or so.
 
I think those temps are fine....
The motor has to be a minimum of 190 anyway. 210 for summer driving is fine... JMO
Did someone say it wasn't?
Where do you have the sensor reading coming from?

How did you notice the "higher" temps if you don't know what they were prior?

Bout the only thing you got left to do is buy an all out aluminum race radiator. But I'd change the thermostat first. Even if the other one is new, sometimes they are bad right out of the box.

Does your heater work?
Sometimes they get clogged with gunk and if you didn't flush that too, ya never know..
 
When i installed my FMIC i also had a little higher than desired coolant temps. I drilled a few 1/8" holes in the flat block off section of my thermostat. It helped out a little, but a flushed radiator and new coolant helped more. Have you replaced the water pump? Have you flushed your radiator coolant out anytime recently (last year of so)?
 
WOW!!!

I was gonna edit and add a few things but i was surprised by the responces i already got.

EDIT: forgot to add Timing Belt and water pump done at 120000.

I already have a Koyo but its too thick for the stock fans and my T-28 FMIC piping.
The temps are pretty consistant but i just read all these post about people constantly in the 190-195 range and im feel like im in highschool all over again
"why not me? why am i so different??" LOL!
no Mitsu or Chrysler has a Thermo in stock so i already order 2, count em' 2 thermostats from the local"Mom and Pop" style auto store.
The guy orderd me 2 different ones from 2 different vendors of his and made sure to get me the 180* one.
hes a nice guy and has run his family shop for 32 years now.

EDIT: forgot to add that i also richened up my fuel thinking the motor was running lean after the FMIC so that was heating the engine while the engine heated up the coolant.

And i am reading the info on my Pocketlogger.
 
temps look fine really. You may want to try straightening the fins on the radiator with either a radiator comb, or use a pair of toothpicks (actually works great) Also, you may want to test the carbon content of your coolant resevoir, just to make sure there is to oil deposits getting in there. Also, have you tried using a 50/50 mix of coolant, water, and water wetter? You may want to try using staight distilled water and water wetter! Just don't forget to switch it back to at least a 50/50 mix before those colde Connecticut winters
 
thanks for responding guys, your making me feel a whole lot better all ready.

But you really think 203-210 is accptable for highway cruising?

i just want to be safe and not have to worry about my long drive ahead of me.

thanks again you guys rock
 
siceclipse said:
But you really think 203-210 is accptable for highway cruising?
i just want to be safe and not have to worry about my long drive ahead of me.
thanks again you guys rock
203-210 is perfectly acceptable for highway cruising. After installing my FMIC my crusing temps went as high as 224. I added radiator shrouds to direct as much air flow as possible through the radiator and now I see temps like yours when it's over 100 degrees ambient.
 
siceclipse said:
The guy orderd me 2 different ones from 2 different vendors of his and made sure to get me the 180* one.
It's a misconception that putting in a lower temp thermostat will lower your coolant temps. All that happens is the thermostat opens all the way at a lower temp. It doesn't increase the amount of coolant flowing inside the radiator or the amount of air hitting the radiator. If your cooling system operates at 200* when it's hot outside, it will still operate at that temp with a lower temp thermostat. It will take a little longer to get to that temp, that's all.

Another downside, if you have a lower temp thermostat during the winter when cooling is easy your engine will only warm up to the rating of the thermostat. The ECU is expecting the engine to be at a certain temperature when warmed up (190* in a 2g). You may not get correct closed-loop operation if the engine never fully warms up to the expected operating temperature.
 
but thats the thing, it was 67* out last night when i finished at 2AM and went for a test cruise and the temps were at 206*

Im just glad to hear that things are looking good.

thanks for posting Jon, really helpful info.
 
Other than an aftermarket radiator, that's about all you can do. Those temps are normal for cruising.

If you had a DSMLink, you could offset the coolant temps during the winter, so you would go into a normal operating mode.
 
WOW

thanks to everyone who replied
I feel alot more confident about making the trip now.

ill keep you all posted
 
Mine were pretty bad when I first installed my FMIC. On regular roads it would be around 210F cruise and on the highway evenually my coolant gauge would read 1/4 higher than in the middle, so not overheating yet but getting there. I logged the run and I was getting over 220F on highway cruises. I ordered this radiator off this seller on ebay and now my coolant temps are at 195F cruise and 205F on highway and around 210F WOT. Thats in 90-100F weather.
 
thanks everyone!
I feel so much better now.
when i come back im putting the 16G in and the Koyo radiator.

but with the newss you guys are giving me now i just might put that condensor back in.

alex:
I already did that with aluminum ducting but didnt put it below the bumper.
it is slipped between the bumper and the metal support that keeps the bumpers shape (where the stock shroud bolted to)
 
operating temp on these cars is supposedly 212, so you arent far ooff, althought thats alot higher than Id like it to be, I got myself one of these suckers cause my radiator was goign bad, supposedly helps drop temps 15 degrees http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/KOYO...tegoryZ33602QQihZ011QQitemZ320017752700QQrdZ1 i got mine for 295 shipped, thats what I offered the guy and he took it. I will post somethign up about it when I install it within the next couple weeks.

Damian.
 
siceclipse said:
alex:
I already did that with aluminum ducting but didnt put it below the bumper.
it is slipped between the bumper and the metal support that keeps the bumpers shape (where the stock shroud bolted to)
You're missing an important piece if you don't put something underneath. Air chooses the path of least resistance and the gap between the FMIC and lower radiator frame will dump a lot of air you want going through the radiator. Either close it off or make it like a scoop to force additional air up into the radiator. Mine is like a scoop and hangs below the front lip about .5", not much of a scoop but it's helping.
 
toojung2die said:
You're missing an important piece if you don't put something underneath. Air chooses the path of least resistance and the gap between the FMIC and lower radiator frame will dump a lot of air you want going through the radiator. Either close it off or make it like a scoop to force additional air up into the radiator. Mine is like a scoop and hangs below the front lip about .5", not much of a scoop but it's helping.

Right, that is what I was talking about. Mine scoops air up and takes it directly to the radiator so it helps force itself though and it doesn't have to go through the FMIC so it is also cooler.
 
well my cooling system was really put to the test this weekend.

4 hr drive up i only saw as high as 213 for a couple miles in the higher elevation parts of VT

the 6.5 hr ( Fu[k traffic ) ride back i only saw 213 in the same area of VT and a little back in CT but it went right back down between 206-210.

Talked to a really good Mitsu tech up there who said quit worrying your right where you are supposed to be.

all in all i had a great time up there and gas was cheap as hell

also the area by the lake was all straight roads. I mean STRAIGHT LONG ROADS.


I also leaned my car out a little more on the way back cause i was only taking 9% out on the low side with my 560 inj. I decided to take 12% out which is still on the rich side keeping in mind that they are 19.56% larger then the 450's

It cooled my EGT's a little and brought my gas up a little more (just to throw that in there)

Later fellas!
 
Best believe i've had my share of overheating. It was to were Every pass I made at the speedway, I had to put 1gallon of water back in the radiator.. My head was crack in 3 places, car never blew out white smoke. It just burn up all the radiator water.. But now with this new head and radiator, i'm struggling to keep the car warm... So off to Mitsu for another thermostat... Hope this works or i'll be in trouble this winter!!
 
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