I used six washers on mine. It made a huge difference, however I would recommend lining everything up with a plumb line and then taking it to a professional for a correct alignment since running into positive camber and overcompensating can be dangerous.

It's pretty much trial and error, but I have about a 1.75" drop in the rear and I needed that many to make it work. When it was aligned, it still had a wee bit of negative camber, but it was much better than before.

Your mileage may vary,

Andy

hey man not to spoil your idea but it's already been done. i ordered one not to long ago and for the rear thats what they send you. you get longer bolts and washers. they said each one of the washers are 1/2 a degree of camber and the best way i can think of to tell you how much you need is to take it to a shop and have them tell you how far off your camber angle is off then add washers accordingly. i'm sure someone else has a better way to do it but thats what i can think of

Bingo...

http://home.bellsouth.net/p/s/community.dll?ep=16&groupid=94647&ck=

Have at it!

andymoraitis - PERFECT! thanks a bunch man. and it probably hasn't even been an hour since I asked. great stuff. I haven't read that site yet but in reply to AVC-R I think it would be fairly easy to make a template using a plumb bob and figure out my negative camber. then assuming a washer is .5 degrees I could adjust accordingly, but who knows what thickness that magic washer is. anyway, i'll check out the site and get to work this weekend to fix it up. it's gonna be a guess and check deal anyway i assume but thanks for the help. exactly what i needed.

That link is amazing!
Nice find.

Does anyone know if those bolts are fine or coarse thread? Im going to pick them up before my suspension install.

I imagine since it's metric the threads are rated in pitch. IE 1.5

Anyone know if the procedure is similar for a 1G?

ok, one more question while on the subject. i know what + and - camber is, and i know the negatives of having too much and blah blah blah.

but i don't know as much about toe. i don't think i have any problems, but let me know if i'm right/wrong. isn't toe where the wheel itself is turned inward/outward thus causing a dragging or sliding effect across the tire as the car moves forward? and toe i know causes drastic tread loss whereas camber just centralizes normal tire wear to one specidic area.

here's two more pics, one is what i think toe is, and the second is the best picture i could find since i lowered my car showing the wheels from a semi-head on view.

forgot the second one. there aren't any toe problems right?

edit: i realize it's hard to tell, maybe impossible. but i've inspected all 4 corners and the wheels all seem straight, i think i'm ok. my only issue it that excessive rear camber. i want a tiny bit of negative camber on both front and rear. front is perfect as it is, rear needs to be tilted out some.

Im running the longer bolts/washer combo in the rear as well. Been in for 2 years and works perfect. Picked them up from a local DSM shop for $20, just make sure you get the proper grade bolts.

As for toe you are correct, when the front or rear of the tire is in/out more then the opposite side. Think of it as camber but front to back instead of top to bottom, if that makes sense. It toe that kills tires, not negative camber which most think. Toe is adjustable from the factory, make sure to get a proper alignment done after you've lowered the car. The may not look to bad to the eye but I know after my drop they were out a mile. I'm around 1.6" or so drop

0.2 inches of spacers will change the camber by about +0.5°. It's fine (and preferred by many) to leave about -1° of negative camber in the rear.

You can get a pretty good estimate of your camber with a carpenter square on a very flat surface. Otherwise Harbor Freight sells a decent camber guage for about $10.

Toe will kill tires in no time.

THink of it this way. Put your right hand face down on a kitchen table. Now imagine your hand is thecontact patch of your right front tire to the road. If your toe is 0 and camber is 0, then it would be like pushing your hand straight. If you have a lot of negative camber, lift the outside of the hand ( side the pinky finger is on ) so that it doesn't touch the table. See how all the contact is now on the left side of the tire? So that side will wear more than the right but it still goes in a "straight" direction, right? Now to demonstrate toe out which you usually get by lowering your car, do this. Clock your hand 20% to the right. Now try to push your hand straight in the direction it was pointing. See how the tire/hand now "scrubs" across the table? This is happening to your tires as well. Your car is literally dragging the side of the tire block across the pavement on each revolution.

That is why toe is much MUCH more dangerous to your tires than camber.

Does anyone know if this DIY will work on a 1gAWD?
Im not sure if the suspension set-ups are similar.

No, it won't. You need to change control arm length.