Why do you need forged internals? How much power do you plan on having?

According to your profile, you run a 16G. That being the case, there's something wrong with your tune if you're eating pistons (detonation/preignition/piston to valve clearance). Those issues need to be solved before you put new slugs in it as forged internals may buy you more durabiility but not deal with the underlying cause.

andymoraitis said:

According to your profile, you run a 16G. That being the case, there's something wrong with your tune if you're eating pistons (detonation/preignition/piston to valve clearance). Those issues need to be solved before you put new slugs in it as forged internals may buy you more durabiility but not deal with the underlying cause.

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Andy, you're my hero.


Stock pistons have been taken to well over 500 hp... If you're blowing them up before then, you're doing something wrong.

There are only 2 reasons to go with forged internals as I see it. 1) you're building a stroker motor, at which point the cost difference after machining is negligable, or you're going to be trying to break 600whp.

Before that, 1g/2g rod piston combo works and is a heck of a lot cheaper.

That said, I'm probably going with JE pistons. Supposedly lower silicone content will help keep the piston from fracturing upon detonation. It will still need to be replaced, but hopefully it won't take out my block, head, crank etc when it happens.

When I buy pistons I would rather buy forged pistons and not stockers whal I am in there. yes I get what you guys are telling me. Im just the type of guy that would like to have that pieace of mind and spend the extra on a build. I would also like a 50 trim set up soon

Here is the problem with that:

So you want to buy forged pistons. Figure the cheapest set of forged pistons and rings is going to be 450$ shipped. Then you look at your rods and you realize that either you'll be machining your stock rod to work with a floating wrist pin, or you'll be buying forged rods as well.

Your cost just went from 200$ for new 2g pistons and rings, to over 750 for the ABSOLUTE CHEAPEST aftermarket forged pistons/rods. Well, with that same attitude you probably won't get the cheapest forged rods and pistons, soo, say you get a quality set of Manley rods and JE pistons. you're sitting at almost $1000.

If your engine detonates, I don't care if you have titanium rods, and coated, uber special 1200$ pistons... You're still going to break stuff... It just costs more to replace. The only advantages of aftermarket forged parts is that they can handle more horsepower (not an issue in your case), they offer custom compression ratios, and they can withstand hotter combustion temps.

But if you're engine is going boom, it doesn't matter.

The point that 4g63t did not mention was that he is building up a second block over the summer. This block is on an engine stand and NOT in his talon. This is not for his current 16g setup, but for a future setup. Also, 2g pistons on 1g rods are probably not going to work because all of the machine shops in our area are dicks or are incapable of machining out the rods to accept the 2g wristpin (I shopped around alot last summer).

Anyway, arias pistons and eagle rods get my vote. I see the chevy small-block scene praise arias all the time and they are cheap enough.