Possible electrical glitch. Help needed.

Starscream · May 7, 2006

So by browsing this page it seems that I wasn't the only one with electrical problems this weekend...

Ok, now to the point. Yesterday at night I was going to pick up my GF and then of sudden, the battery light, the brake light and another yellow light on the left side of the cluster lighted up (Don't know what does this light mean, it's to the right of the Check Engine Light but the previous owner didn't had the car manual so I don't know the meaning, it would help if somebody explained it to me) all of a sudden. I didn't noticed any loss in power (I had the stereo on and the lights on, no flickering or any kind of loss in power). I proceded to check with my stereo built-in voltage meter (Pioneer DEH-770MP, I know it's not entirely accurate, but it was the best tool I had at hand) and it was showing like 11.3-11.6V

I shut it down, along with the headlights, to see if I could arrive at a safer place to check it out. I picked up my GF, and when I was returning to her house, for a moment all the three warning lights shutted down and I quickly checked the voltage in my stereo and it was back to the range of mid 13's Volts. And before I could breathe in relief, all the three of them lighted up again.

I could arrive at my GF house, it was like a 10 mile drive, without problems. Once there, I began to check battery conections and they were flawless...I even shut down and started the car many times and no problems whatsoever...the lights were still up, but there was no loss in power, even though the voltage meter would tell show low 10's with all the accesories on.

As soon as I disconnected the positive terminal of the battery, the car died. Could this mean an alternator failure? This morning, the car started without problems, except for the three warning lights still on, and I drove it back to my house (aprox 7 miles drive) without experiencing any problems.

What could it be? I'm guessing alternator, but if it was bad shouldn't the battery have died on me? I could drive normally without experiencing any loss in power...could it be that some loose wire or bad connection caused the lights to go up without really having a problem?

Help me people, I'm lost.

dsm023 · May 7, 2006

Go to the dealer and get a new (factory rebuilt) alternator and NO auto parts place alternators!

lasertim · May 7, 2006

dsm023 said:
Go to the dealer and get a new (factory rebuilt) alternator and NO auto parts place alternators!

Please tell me why not to go to a parts store for an alternator? That comment is stupid. Also, how can you say for sure that the alternator is his problem? There are a lot of variables here.

As for Starscream, I would start with the simple and make sure all connections are tight and clean, at the battery, alternator, and grounding locations. If that is good pay the $10 to pull into a shop and have the battery and alternator load tested. Even though you can pull them out individually it is best to have them tested under the conditions that they are being used in.

I personally wouldnt use the cd player as an accurate test for voltage. Take a few readings off the battery or the back of the alternator with a volt meter and go from there.

One more thing. Is your alternator caked with power steering fluid like most DSMs I see? That could definitely cause intermittent problems.

Post back with your results.

Starscream · May 7, 2006

lasertim said:
Please tell me why not to go to a parts store for an alternator? That comment is stupid. Also, how can you say for sure that the alternator is his problem? There are a lot of variables here.

Just to clarify...Mitsubishi never sold the GST or GSX in here (Check location). Just the GS. It seems like the alternator from the GS can not be mounted on the GSX, right? The GS being 65 amps and the GSX 75 amps. So I can't go to a dealership to buy it. If it's the alternator, I'm going to try to have a electrical shop repair it (Labor is pretty cheap in here, and most of the time they are very good).

As for Starscream, I would start with the simple and make sure all connections are tight and clean, at the battery, alternator, and grounding locations. If that is good pay the $10 to pull into a shop and have the battery and alternator load tested. Even though you can pull them out individually it is best to have them tested under the conditions that they are being used in.

I already checked the connections. They seem to be ok. I will go tomorrow morning to a shop to have them test everything.

I forgot to add...this happened when it was raining, could it be that some water somehow got in there and made a short circuit?

I personally wouldnt use the cd player as an accurate test for voltage. Take a few readings off the battery or the back of the alternator with a volt meter and go from there.

I know it's not accurate, but it was the best tool I had at the moment.

One more thing. Is your alternator caked with power steering fluid like most DSMs I see? That could definitely cause intermittent problems.

I didn't noticed any strange fluid on the alternator. Maybe it dried out? I will surely keep an eye on this in the future.

Tomorrow I'll take the car to an electric shop and have it checked, I'll post the results.

PD: Can someone please tell me what does the yellow light on the left side of the cluster means? It's right next to the Check Engine light, and it looks like a square with 5 divisions in the inside...

dsm023 · May 7, 2006

lasertim said:
Please tell me why not to go to a parts store for an alternator? That comment is stupid. Also, how can you say for sure that the alternator is his problem? There are a lot of variables here.

Do a poll and you'll know the answer Newbie!

lasertim said:
As for Starscream, I would start with the simple and make sure all connections are tight and clean, at the battery, alternator, and grounding locations. If that is good pay the $10 to pull into a shop and have the battery and alternator load tested. Even though you can pull them out individually it is best to have them tested under the conditions that they are being used in.

The lights he describes are the Trifecta of lights when an alternator is going bad! Battery, Brake, and Coolant lights...

Starscream · May 7, 2006

Does anybody know of any online place I could get a factory rebuilt alternator that doesn't require any core exchange?

Shipping prices would be more than the additional cost of the core return.

lasertim · May 7, 2006

dsm023 said:
Do a poll and you'll know the answer Newbie!

The lights he describes are the Trifecta of lights when an alternator is going bad! Battery, Brake, and Coolant lights...

You have got to be kidding me. Like I said, explain why. Give me proof. There is absolutely no reason to say that all parts stores reman'd alternators are junk.

I would be willing to bet that the company that remanufacturers alternators for the dealer also remanufacturers alternators for major parts store chains.

Quit whoring this thread with your misinformation, post facts next time. I will be waiting for your proof.

Sinclair159 · May 7, 2006

Go out and get your self a cheap DVOM and check your alternator... it wont take you but 15 minutes to do a base, no load, and load voltage test on the battery to see if your alternator is still up to par... no need to buy and replace an alternator if it isnt bad... your "shotgunning" the problem.. :thumb:

Starscream · May 7, 2006

Sinclair159 said:
Go out and get your self a cheap DVOM and check your alternator... it wont take you but 15 minutes to do a base, no load, and load voltage test on the battery to see if your alternator is still up to par... no need to buy and replace an alternator if it isnt bad... your "shotgunning" the problem..

What would be the normal readings? And what would be considered "time to replace" readings?

lasertim · May 8, 2006

A fully charged battery should be 12.6 volts. When cranking you could see voltage drops to almost 10 volts and the battery could still be good. The main thing is that the battery should jump back to at least 12.4-12.5 immediatly after cranking(without starting obviously).

If I were you I would have someone man the volt meter and with the car running and at a high idle turn on every accessory(rear defrost, lights, high beams, heater, etc..) and make sure the voltage doesnt drop. It might drop for a second but should be right back up to 13.5 or so volts once the alternator kicks in to compensate for the draw.

Sinclair159 · May 8, 2006

base voltage as stated about should be around 12.6.... if the battery is out of whack replace that first.. theres no point in diagnosing anything else with a krap battery..a no load test, (engine on, no accessories, 1500rpm) should be between 13-14.6v, and should never show more then 2 volts over base voltage... and a load test ( engine on, all accessories on, 2000 rpm) must read about .5 volts over the base voltage test... if not your alternator is not putting out enough juice to recharge the battery.. check it out and let us know :thumb:

Starscream · May 8, 2006

Well, I tested the alternator today, and the numbers where very low...like mid 11's on low loads and dropped to the 10's with a full load test. I know it's broken now. Even when getting it out of the car, the housing broke.

So it's time for a new alternator, and I have a few questions...

1990 GSX's come with 75amps alternators? If not, which is the stock amps?

Do +92 GS's (Including 2G's) alternators would work? Because those are the only Eclipses that Mitsubishi sold officially in here (I'm in Venezuela), so getting specific parts for the turbo versions is a little bit harder (and takes more time), so I would like to know If I would be ok buying a N/T alternator, don't want to spend money on something that would not work properly.

lasertim · May 8, 2006

I just did a quick search on Advance Auto Parts web site and the 96 GS is a different part number than the 90 GSX. 96GS is a 90amp and 90GXS is 75amp like you said but I am not sure if that is the only difference. 92 GS is a 65amp if it has the 4G63 n/t. and looks completely different if it is the 1.8.

Looks like you may be waiting a while for shipping.

Starscream · May 8, 2006

I'll guess I'll do it the right way and order it directly online. Do you know any good pages to buy it from?

lasertim · May 8, 2006

I am not sure where you could order one from and get international shipping. Do you have any national parts store chains down there?

I personally have never had a problem with a remanufactured alternator so I guess I would just buy a reman from a parts store. Just make sure you get a decent warranty.

I know the parts store rebuilds go for about $120 for your car, double that price for one that is a brand new unit, not rebuilt.

Starscream · May 8, 2006

International shipping is not a problem, I would be ordering one and had it shipped to my mother-in-law house in Weston, FL. Then, she would have it shipped to me.

I would've rebuild the alternator in here, but like I mentioned, the housing broke, and the cost of parts would be more than buying a brand new alternator there in the US (Mitsu parts are expensive in here).

Anyways, thanks for your time and help. Apreciated

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Possible electrical glitch. Help needed.

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