Check with GsGoinFast and this tech article http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=181134 hopefully this will help you out

The link posted above won't do much help. As you can see in it's title, it is there to help build a custom kit for under $1,000.

The Hahn kit cHz is talking about is pre-fabbed.


That said, since you are buying a kit there isn't anything you will need right away since it will all be put together for you, you just have to install it.(or have it installed)

Whether or not you will need to upgrade your clutch all depends on how much wear and tear is on it now. Stock clutch can usually handle 8 psi for quite sometime(although there are exceptions). Some people are running 12 psi on stock clutch without problems. Some are running 5, with problems. Only way to find out is to install the kit and see what happens. A wise investment for some money would be an external wastegate setup. A good 38mm tial can be had for around $200 if you look.

You don't need an electronic boost controller, or a turbo timer really. You won't be raising the boost passed 8 psi on the stock engine, and if you can afford to sit in your car for a minute or so with it idling, after you've gotten on it, then you don't need a turbo timer.

It would never hurt to go ahead and purchase one, for when yours does decide to take a dump though. If you have the funds.

I agree. That's one of the benefits of the Hahn Turbo Kit: you pay $2,000+, but you pretty much get everything you need. If I were you, I would buy the turbo kit, install it, then see where you stand. The same goes for the clutch and flywheel - install the kit, then see where you stand. There's a good chance it'll hold up for now.

Like Josh said, you won't need a turbo timer or boost controller. You won't even need to think about a boost controller until you have a rebuilt short block.

Some parts (i.e. fuel pressuer regulator, downpipe, etc.) in the Hahn kit are known to be "sub-standard" in quality. For those, you might want to purchase upgrades either from Hahn or from some other source after you buy the kit. Unfortunately, because you're purchasing everything as a "kit," there's no picking and choosing which parts you want unless you buy everything from Hahn.


The difference between the two kits is the fuel system. The 95-96 kit is for the early style fuel system that has the fuel feed/return lines coming out of the same side of the fuel rail, the FPR mounted on the fuel rail itself, and the fuel filter in the engine bay. The 96+ kit is for the fuel system that has the FPR and fule filter mounted under the car closer to the fuel tank.

Here's a schematic (ignore the FMU, you'll be adding a variation of that when you install the turbo kit):

DSMcrazy3 said:

The link posted above won't do much help. As you can see in it's title, it is there to help build a custom kit for under $1,000.

The Hahn kit cHz is talking about is pre-fabbed.


That said, since you are buying a kit there isn't anything you will need right away since it will all be put together for you, you just have to install it.(or have it installed)

Whether or not you will need to upgrade your clutch all depends on how much wear and tear is on it now. Stock clutch can usually handle 8 psi for quite sometime(although there are exceptions). Some people are running 12 psi on stock clutch without problems. Some are running 5, with problems. Only way to find out is to install the kit and see what happens. A wise investment for some money would be an external wastegate setup. A good 38mm tial can be had for around $200 if you look.

You don't need an electronic boost controller, or a turbo timer really. You won't be raising the boost passed 8 psi on the stock engine, and if you can afford to sit in your car for a minute or so with it idling, after you've gotten on it, then you don't need a turbo timer.

It would never hurt to go ahead and purchase one, for when yours does decide to take a dump though. If you have the funds.

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HHmmm....I see what you mean, I stand corrected. I just remembered seeing that tech article and thought it might help. Too bad that kit isn't being used, it seems very straightforward and complete.

The hahn kit does not come with any gauges or gauge pod anymore so you should probably buy some autometer ones.

95TalonOwner said:

The hahn kit does not come with any gauges or gauge pod anymore so you should probably buy some autometer ones.

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Yeah I know, I forgot to mention that I needed those too. What exact gauges do you recommend? A/F, Boost, what else?

oil pressure

Skip the A/F gauge, it won't do you any good unless you have a wideband O2 sensor.

VelocitàPaola said:

Skip the A/F gauge, it won't do you any good unless you have a wideband O2 sensor.

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Please listen to him, so many 1st time guys think a AF gauge is somthing you can tune off of. ITS NOT!@@!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Unless its a wide band AF gauge, if anyone tells you its ok to use a reg AF gauge they dont know what terhe tlaking about.

The narrowband gauge isn't the best tool in the world, but I dis-agree with all of the statements saying it is useless. As it's titled "narrowband" it does give you a "narrow" view of what's going on with your air/fuels.

As for the tuning statement, my car was infact tuned by reading off of the narrowband gauge. I didn't think it was possible, or safe. This guy knew DSMs and was very confident in what he was doing. I'm glad to say I did notice a difference with the finished product.

Just a reminder in no way am I saying it's a method you should go with and a Wideband o2 set-up is much more recommended. However I do believe the narrowband gauge is infact better than nothing.