Ummm no pic.

You dont have to unplug the battery to weld on a car. Place your ground as close to your work as possable, should be no problem. But another thing is its pretty hard to Tig upside down, where is the crack at? How do you not know about welders and have a TIG?

Correct. However should you inadvertently hook your ground to chassis and strike the tig...........

I'd go ahead and unhook it. Kindof like not unhooking your battery when changing the alternator and starter. Usually it goes good until that darn wire springs back and attaches itself to a good solid ground and start a little welding of its own.

Do make sure your ground clamp is very close to the weld joint.

Good Luck

I found some other cracks and I think im screwed bad . I just found them and I am glad I did this could of been dangerous. Do you think I can fix this or not even worth it. Here's the pics of the cracks. It is by the bolts that hold the slave and under the slave through to the ohter side. You should be able to tell by the pics. This is my DD and now im A WORLD OF HELL.


Here is the other thread when I first found a crack there is pics there to.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=218464

Nasty...

I had a whole ear break off the block by the Slave cylinder. If it breaks off, every time u press the clutch, the entire tranny will push out and away from the block. Its a nightmare. FIX IT NOW before u regret it later. I had it welded and I pray to god every day that it dosn't come apart with me on the highway.

Not trying to be a smartass, but are you sure you have a tig welder, alot of welders plug into a wall type socket.
The biggest thing with tig is having the welding surface clean, if it ain't complety clean, then the weld will be worse than the crack, b/c the dirt will be embedded and scattered throught the welded area. Oil on the backside of the weld, dirt, duct, all will make you life a living hell. Besides that, the heat from the tig torch would ###### light any fluid on fire.

From the look of thosae cracks you are not going to TIG that while in the car. Like was said before rule #1 when TIG welding is it has to be spotless. If you take the transmission out you should be able to weld it and grind the welds down for clearance. Good luck.

I have a welder that plugs into the wall and use's these stick rods. dont know what it is called. I got it at a garage sale for 20 bucks. This is not how I wanted to spend my birthday
AJ

Flybiyou said:

I have a welder that pugs into the wall and use's these stick rods. dont know what it is called. I got it at a garage sale for 20 bucks. This is not how I wanted to spend my birthday
AJ

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I would venture a guess that it is not a TIG welder, If it is ill give you a hundred bucks for it. You probably have an ac stick welder, this will not weld aluminium, a dc stick welder can do it but its not pretty, or the strongest weld. I would recommend pulling the trans and taking it to be welded. No offense but just because you have a welder doesnt make you a welder. It is alot more difficult than you think it could be. Anyway the trans is probably going to have to come out, sorry. Good luck

p.s.
HAPPY BIRTHDAY
if it makes you feel any better was pulling the motor in my gst on my birthday.

luvmygst said:

I would venture a guess that it is not a TIG welder, If it is ill give you a hundred bucks for it. You probably have an ac stick welder, this will not weld aluminium, a dc stick welder can do it but its not pretty, or the strongest weld. I would recommend pulling the trans and taking it to be welded. No offense but just because you have a welder doesnt make you a welder. It is alot more difficult than you think it could be. Anyway the trans is probably going to have to come out, sorry. Good luck

p.s.
HAPPY BIRTHDAY
if it makes you feel any better was pulling the motor in my gst on my birthday.

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So it is a aluminium housing. I started to weld the front part and it took well. I stoped cause I figured I will just get another tranny or built one. For the first time welding I dont think I did to bad looked better after I sanded it down.

(I just have to wait till all my stuff sell's if they do. Anyone looking for.....

Wet nitrous system

Profec b 2

2g exhaust manifold

or a Duratrax Evader Pro electric st RC car? lots of hop ups

I would recommend seeing if anyone around know's how to nickle weld. We use it on blocks when they torque to much and break off the motor mounts. Strongest kind of weld they have right now. Expensive but will hold forever.

95blackGsTurbo said:

I would recommend seeing if anyone around know's how to nickle weld. We use it on blocks when they torque to much and break off the motor mounts. Strongest kind of weld they have right now. Expensive but will hold forever.

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The trans. case is alumninum, I didnt think you could nickel weld aluminum? For iron it is one of the best welds, if the person doing it is good.

Nickelling is when the bead of a weld (MIG or TIG) looks like nickels laying on each other. As for your problem take the tranny out and have it welded professionally. There are many aspects to welding that the novice cannot control without experience and good equipment. I don't think it will be more than two bills done correctly. The reason for the high estimate is that looks like a lot of welding, and it needs to be done very carefully so that the bellhousing isn't weakened or warped by too much heat. Compare that too the price of the repairs if that thing lets go at 80 on the freeway. No to freak you out but I would strongly suggest calling a few welding shops in your area and see what they have to say. Good luck and keep us posted. --Jon


Pic of a really good tig weld with the nickelling effect

Actually nickel welding is welding with pure or a nickel alloy. It allows for stronger bonds on materials with nickel content.(at least thats what I understand) But it is an actual form of welding not just reffering to the pattern of your weld.