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FMIC is finally on. Pics and short How-To

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MrBoxx

Moderator
3,726
129
Aug 19, 2005
Midland, Michigan
Friday night I went back to the hometown to help my sister pick out a pet hedgehog. The store didn't have any yet. So my friend Tim and I decided to put my intercooler on that night instead of the next day. What follows is the story of what happened during the next five hours.

We went to Tim's dad's shop two towns and fifteen miles away. It's a company that specializes in building, modifying, and repairing plastic thermoforming machines. (My hometown of Beaverton, MI is the Plastics Thermoforming Capitol of the World, btw)
My intercooler is a 9"x27"x2.5" core, with six mounting nuts, size M12x1.75x25. This is a very difficult bolt size to find, but I found some at Home Depot that were about the right size, which is to say LARGE. We started by taking off the bumper and bumper reinforcement, a bracket that previously held my foglights and the horn on. Now my car looks like this:
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That's Tim, trying to loosen up rusty bolts and relocate my horn to a frame hole. It's going to have to move again later due to pipe clearances, but oh well.

Next, I rerouted the power steering fluid cooler lines so that it bypasses the cooler completely, and I removed the power steering fluid cooling loop. If in the future I need a cooler, I can get one for $15 at an autoparts store. Now we started looking around the shop for something to make brackets out of. Tim was thinking about using angle iron (even though it's really steel; we had a lengthy conversation about that point) to make a bracket but I wasn't seeing his vision. I eventually found a long enough L-shaped peice of steel with a hole in one end that I thought would be sturdy enough and shaped well enough for our purposes. Tim looked at it and said, "That's angle iron." Oh. We drilled a hole in the center support, tapped it, then drilled a corresponding hole in the bracket. On the car:
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And with the intercooler mounted to this one bracket:
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At this point you can see the size difference between the stock Sidemount and the Front Mount. The fluid unerneath the right wheel is p-steering fluid that leaked out and the dangly thing on the left is my horn.

Now we noticed that the bottom of the intercooler was pretty much even with the bottom of the frame, so we spent a while debating how to do the bottom brackets. One thought was to just make straight steel strips from the bottom of the frame to the two bottom mounting nuts, with maybe a spacer to accomodate height differences. Tim found some scrap steel strips and started drilling holes in them. However, he didn't get very far. Each drill bit he tried didn't put more than a little dent in the steel. And then he started laughing as he realized where this particular piece of scrap came from: it came from an oven used in a thermoforming machine, which meant it had spent it's life getting hot and cooling down repeatedly for months or years. In other words, it was tempered steel. What we decided instead was to use a similar piece like the upper bracket and use a spacer to push it out far enough to be even with the upper bracket. It ended up looking like this:
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We drilled and tapped the frame, cut a 3/4 square bar for a spacer, and inserted a bolt.

Next came the smelly, messy part. The fiberglass and resin reinforcement bar had to be cut to fit around the top of the intercooler. I marked out a line and used a Sawzall to cut. Fiberglass and resin turn to mush when it gets hot, just to let you know. Got it cut and fit it back on the car.
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We do the same thing to the bumper cover, including cutting off the grille. I get to use an air-powered cutoff wheel. This REALLY stinks, is throwing up lots of grey smoke and flinging long strands of molten fiberglass, and is basically not pleasant. But we got it done, mounted the bumper back on, and this is how she looks.
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The zip-tie on the right is due to my forgetting one bolt at home, so we used it to secure the intercooler to the bumper and get it home. Note: my headlights aren't on, it's just reflection from the flash.

Next day, a trip to Lowe's buys a bolt, three washers, and a lock washer. Install on the third bracket and that's all she wrote. The intercooler is on rock-solid, awaiting pipes and couplers. Total install time: 4.5 hours or so, with NO snags (a first for me) and only TWO instances of bleeding (caught my thumb between the rear end of pliers, scraped fingers on steel grate in shop). The final product, after a car wash and in daylight:
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So, pipes aren't on it yet. I have a slim-line fan on order to replace the radiator fan, am going to do the rewire mod to link both fans together just to be sure it'll get enough flow, then I have to buy couplers and have some pipes made up, then paint them. Should be totally done in a few weeks.
 
Yes and no. :)

I ordered three couplers: a 45* angle coupler and two 2.25"-2.75" transition couplers from DSMotorsport.com. They get their couplers from Turbonetics and apparently the transition couplers are on serious back-order. They sent the 45* and one transition hose via UPS a little while ago and are waiting to get another transition hose in so they can send it to me seperately. I'm very pleased with the quality of Turbonetics couplers. The 45* angle is going to go from my J-pipe to the RRE L-pipe, so it will sort of bend towards the radiator/fans a bit. I need to do this to get around the motor mount and wastegate actuator, as my J-pipe crosses over the turbo towards the passenger side, as opposed to bending back towards the driver's side like I've seen on other cars here. Then the L-pipe is going to run sideways towards the driver's side, couple to a U-bend pipe, then transition hose, IC, then transition hose, then to a custom bent pipe to the stock UIP location. I'll get some pics up pretty soon.

The only problem is, I don't have the pipes made yet. I'm still trying to figure out the best way to do it. One the one hand, I want to have it all mandrel bent, but I would need to take some measurements, order the pipes (probably from Summit/Jegs/etc.) and then take them to Tim's shop to cut them. On the other hand, I could have a muffler shop bend some pipes for cheap and have them fit the pipes right to my car. They wouldn't be mandrel bent, but they'd work until I could afford to replace them. I don't know. I won't be driving the Eclipse much this winter, so I'm not in any hurry to get it done. It would be nice to get the white trash bags off the inlets, though. :) And I'd like to have a finished write-up of this project.

Tomorrow if the weather is nice, I'll get a pic or two of my slim-fan installation and the way my J-pipe faces. If it had gone the other way like I see on everyone else's car, it would be a lot easier, but oh well.
 
Amendment #1: Power Steering Re-route method.

Someone PM'd me asking for more details on how I re-routed my power steering fluid hoses and removed the cooling loop. I guess I just glanced over it in my original write-up. So, here's a little amendment to explain it, with a picture of the final product for clarification. As soon as I get the intercooler actually piped up, I'll condense everything and turn it into a tech article in that section of the site, but until then, here's this little chunk.

If you look at the PS cooling loop in front of your radiator, you see two pipes coming off it. Follow those up and you'll see which rubber lines they connect to. One should connect to the bottom of the PS reservoir and one should go to an L-shaped metal pipe right next to the reservoir. Basically, all you're doing is using one of the rubber hoses and bypassing the cooler. So instead of reservoir-> rubber hose-> cooler-> rubber hose-> pipe, the pipe and res. are connected by the same rubber hose. The best way to do it to cause the least amount of leakage is to pinch off the rubber hose connected to the reservoir with really small vice grips or some clamps of some sort, and then cut the hose really close to the where the cooling loop pipe ends. So now you have a long rubber hose coming off the reservoir and the cooling loop is connected only by the other rubber hose hooked up to the metal pipe. You're going to take the rubber hose off the metal pipe and QUICKLY put the res. rubber hose on it. Some fluid is going to leak out, but you can replace it with the fluid in the cooling loop if you want. A note about removing that loop: There is actually a bracket holding it on that's really hard to see. It's somewhat behind the headlight, on part of the frame. The best way to see it is to follow the pipe route with your finger, from the front to the back. You'll find it and then you can get at the one bolt holding the bracket from the bottom of the car. It's very hard to get to though. Pull the cooler out from the front and you're good. Later, if you think you need it, you can install an aftermarket power steering cooler; they're only about $15-20 and can mount behind the opening in the bumper on the driver's side.
This is what the reservoir, hose, and pipe should look like when you're done.
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If I've left anything out or done something wrong, by all means, correct me or remind me, but this is how I remember doing it and have not had any problems. If anything, my steering wheel actually got easier and smoother to move.
 
Amendment #2: Piping

I promised I'd get some pics of the piping route if the weather was nice and it only got down to 40, so I got pics. :)

The slim-line fan actually opens up a lot of room between the J-pipe and the fan. I can actually get a finger between them now. Shown here:
55335IC_pipe_Top_View.jpg


Here's another image from further away. (Don't mind the mess of wires and hoses and such. That's all going to get cleaned up this spring.)
55335J_Pipe_Top_View.jpg


Notice how my J-pipe curves to the right of the turbo, closer to the passenger side? After looking at some other J-pipes of cars on this site, I noticed that many of them actually curve over the turbo to the left. This does two things when you want to put a FMIC on: it puts the pipe on the left side of the motor mount and it results in less pipe being used for the the route. So my main problem is there's a freaking motor mount in my way, as seen in the following pic.
55335IC_pipe_Side_View_700_x_525_.jpg


So, here's the plan (refer to the above picture to aid your imagination :) ) : Coming off the J-pipe will be a 45* coupler which will angle towards the radiator. This put the open end of the coupler even with the front of the motor mount and wastegate. Then, the L-pipe will be turned around with the short part connected to the 45* angle and the long part running just under the AC fan shroud. A few weeks ago when it was still warm, I tried holding the pipe where I thought a 45* coupler would put it and it fit fine. It may touch the AC fan shroud, but I plan on buying another slim-fan to replace it anyway. All I have to do is get a 180* mandrel bent U-pipe to go from that to the intercooler, then some 90* pipes to go from the intercooler to the stock UIP location. I'm really just waiting for the other coupler to come in the mail and access to my parents' garage so I can put what I have together so far and measure what size pipes and angles I'll need. Fun stuff. Eventually I'm going to compile all of this stuff, cut it down, and make a tech article out of it. Hopefully some of the ideas in here will help someone.
 
Just a heads up on the PS cooler. You can simply unbolt it and bend it up and behind the bracket that it was bolted to, viola out of the way but still there to keep things cool.
 
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