JC Whitney. I'd go with one that mounts in the heater hose.
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/...tom-0/p-2000837/N-111+600010776+10214/c-10114
I don't know if this would work on a DSM:
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/...0101/Ntk-AllTextSearchGroup?Ntt=engine heater
There are also dipstick heaters:
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/...wse/s-10101/Ntk-AllTextSearchGroup?Ntt=heater
And, never forget eBay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/3-NE...33602QQitemZ7992494987QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
(#2)http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LOOK...38657QQitemZ7992507248QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

Do not get a dipstick heater, circulating heater, radiator hose heater or magnetic heater. None of these are very effective, and waste electricity.

You need a block heater. These are harder to install, expect to remove the starter, drain the coolant and get messy while lying on your back . The good news is that these take only 400 Watts, and warm the engine up in very little time (couple hours is all you need to plug it in unless your WAY up north like I am, and then plug it in all night.) Since the heater is actually in the block cooling system, it is very efficient in bringing the engine temperature up when it is very cold outside. I have done research at work on the heaters and the block heaters can keep an engine at 70-85 degrees when it is -35 below outside. They also do not run extremely hot due to the low wattage unlike circulating heaters. Do not install this in the head or any other crazy place. You want it as low in the block as possible so use the frost plugs under the intake on the block. The second hole works the best, to keep it away from the starter and you have a little better access to it.
I use a timer on my outside plug-in to automatically turn on the power around 4 am. At work it just runs all day (I'm not paying the electric bill )
The parts store will usually tell you there is not one listed for the application-that's true. But the frost plug hole is 34mm and if you get the correct heater is will fit perfectly. I don't have the part number for this, but I will stop by the parts store and get you the part number. If you have a hard time locating one, let me know and I'll even send one to you. They cost about $35 and really only take about an hour or two to install (if you've never done one, multiply by 2 )

Lower radiator hose heaters are not nearly efficient since the heat travel both to the radiator (doesn't need to be warm ) and to engine. The water doesn't get warm enough to open the t-stat (not even close) so the heated water doesn't radiate the block very well.

Also get a 75W oil pan heater (flat style- they simply are glued on with silicone. These things are only 1/4" thick, so if you are ripping this off with your lowrider, then it's probably time to start thinking about raising the car a tad . This will allow the thick oil to flow at a reasonable pace and reduce cold start-up wear.

Battery Heaters are nice, but these things tend to (because of the corrosive environment) to decay and then short out. Hopefully they just stop working, but I have seen LOTS of underhood fires due to these. I do not install these on any of my cars. A fully charged battery and a warm engine will due just fine.

Add an arctic 3-way cord and you'll only have the one short blue cord sticking out (mine is down by the driving light).

I live in Alaska, it gets real frigging cold here for months on end and my car has never failed to start right up.

To make life real pleasant, add an auto-starter (remote starter) and you'll be loving life. I've never had a 4 cylinder car that made such good, quick heat!

Here's the NAPA part number: 605-3248. The zerostart number is 310-0024. The 605-3250 (310-0021) will fit, but it doesn't have the correct bend for the element and you risk running it up against the block.

Don't overtighten the nut!

Hi Clint,

I personally have an inline heater in my lower rad hose and find that it works fine up here in Ottawa. I think that you will only have few really terrible days there during cold snaps that you will really feel that you need the full-on block heater that badly.

I would actually recommend the battery heater. I have used one for years (I grew up in Edmonton and there are some pretty cold days there)...in a 85 Ford van, Nissan Micra, Toyota Corolla, Pontiac Grand Prix and my 92 talon. Never had a problem.

Cheers

akdsmer said:

I live in Alaska, it gets real frigging cold here for months on end and my car has never failed to start right up.

Click to expand...

He might know more about it than someone in the Central California Desert.

so i take it...that it may be a lil bit difficult to install...4hours since I've never done this before. Are there instructions that go along with the part once i purchase it? if not where could i get my hands on some info on the install?

Access will be the bi***. That's why I was taking the easy ways out . I'm old, and learned decades ago that cars are only worth a certain amount of bother. As much better as a true block heater will work, a heater in the hosing won't be worthless. That's just me.

After posting my first response, I realized I had to install a heater in my stroker motor that is going into the car this week. So this is fresh on mind. I even took some pictures, but they are not here at work so let me know if you would like to see them.

To put a block heater in.... Get block heater as described above, six pack of beer (those with higher tolerances for alcohol will want a little more), some ultra black, right stuff or such, a long prybar, vise grips, hammer and a small 4mm hex driver.

Jack up car. I raise the rear as well to get maximum clearance (OK, I actually put the car on my lift and walk underneath, but the procedure is the same minus the neck ache )Drain coolant out of block. I do this by draining radiator, then removing lower radiator hose. That will get rid of enough coolant to prevent a big mess when removing the frost plug. Drink a beer while cleaning up the antifreeze that will inevitable land on the floor.

Crawl under car and find the frost plug that is in line with the #3 cylinder. That will be the second frost plug from the right side of the car. It will be right next to the starter motor.
You will need to remove the frost plug. This is done by using a long prybar on either SIDE of the plug (don't hit the top or bottom since there is very little clearance between the plug and the cylinder wall. With the bar from the bottom, you tap the prybar with the hammer on one side of the frost plug only and force the plug to twist in the hole. When you can grip it with a pair of vice grips, you simply yank it out. Please stop and drink another beer, the hard part is over! CAUTION: IF THERE IS STILL COOLANT IN THE BLOCK IT WILL COME OUT AT THIS TIME. DO NOT HAVE YOUR MOUTH OPEN OR YOUR DISCO SUIT ON AT THIS TIME!

Clean out the hole (sometimes there is a sealer residue left. Take the new heater and spread a little silicone around the o-ring and the other flange. This will help lube the o-ring and will also fill small nicks and pitting that could cause a leak. The heater element actually protrudes in one direction (which is what we call the "clock position"). You simply slide this heater into the hole at about the 2-4 O'Clock position and make sure it is firmly seated in the hole. This requires a little bit of pressure, but you will clearly see the flange is against the block. Don't drink a beer now, or you will forget to tighten the bolt! The bolt is only to be tightened to 18 or so inch-pounds, I simply tighten this with a hex bit until it is tight (no reefing on it) using the short end of the bit so there is no real leverage. Reinstall the radiator hose, close the drainvalve of the radiator (in case you haven't done that yet) and drink another beer.

Run the cord to the front. Add the oil pan heater and run those to a good arctic 3-way cord.
If you have any other questions or photos, let me know.

The included directions are good, so I wouldn't be too worried about doing this job!

Kelly

Oh yeah, the block heater is made in Canada-so you might even understand the french directions that are included! Je parle vu francais tres mal!

hey man if you have the pics it couldnt hurt to see em. That is some awsome detailed info thanks for that!...i took french back in junior high...bout 8 years ago....but for some reason only remember the ones the teacher always yelled at me....

I will post pics tomorrow.

I only wish you'd not call them "frost plugs". But otherwise, excellent
Please post the pics.

akdsmer said:

...
The parts store will usually tell you there is not one listed for the application-that's true. But the frost plug hole is 34mm and if you get the correct heater is will fit perfectly...

Click to expand...

I hate to disagree with you since it’s hard to find someone that makes reading posts a pleasure but just for the records the expansion plugs are 35mm on a DSM.
http://www.engintecs.com/gallery/album07/Longblock2?full=1
Glad to have you on this board and keep up the good work.

I never appreciate inaccurate information, so I appologize to everyone for that typo(?).
The casting plug is indeed 35mm. I do know that and the heaters listed reflect the correct 35mm size.

But to be very accurate the NAPA 605-3248 is actually 34.925 mm (1 3/8). This still works extremely well and fits better than the 605-3250 which is 35mm, due to the different angle of the heater element. Thanks for the correction.

Here is a photo of the block heater installed. I should have had the starter set in place to show the amount of room available. (enough) If you are doing this on your back, it will be easier to get the starter out of the way a little bit.

Geez, here

thanks for all the help man, I'm sure that info will help out many other people as well as me! I'll probably be doing this within the next month or so...once again thanks for being so descriptive!

hey man its me again!

are these instructions the same for an AWD?
i just heard that it was super hard to get in there with a awd..
he said i had to take down the downpipe and maybe the driveshaft to get to it.
Because if it is not too hard..
and all u have to do is get the started out of the way.. i can do it
instead of paying 200 bux to some dude to do it.

Thanks

So exactly how much of a pain is the install going to be on a 1995 Eagle Talon TSI AWD 5 speed 7 bolt engine?? Or can it even be done??

Just to add an update to this, don't waste your time trying any other block heater. Napa didn't have the 605-3248, so I tried a few from other parts stores. After 5 different parts that didn't work, I went back to NAPA and ordered the correct part. Also, if you are carefull, you can use an air chisel to pop one side of the frost plug in. A bit dicey, but better that swinging a hammer under the intake manifold!

the better idea is to install one that goes in the lower rad hose. it's much easier to install, and it work better because it's at a lower point of the engine.