I just want to share, a friend made a home made cold air intake with some kind of 3" flexible tubing. he has a vpc so he has now mass sensor, well he made the tubing go directly from the turbo to one of the holes on the bumper. well to my surprise he did 1/4 mile pass and got 3 more mph than without the coldair intake.

improved 3mph. with about 10 bux the cost of the tubing! I think its very worth it.

only down side I see with this, is water may get sucked into the cold air intake.

armandovivoni said:

I just want to share, a friend made a home made cold air intake with some kind of 3" flexible tubing. he has a vpc so he has now mass sensor, well he made the tubing go directly from the turbo to one of the holes on the bumper. well to my surprise he did 1/4 mile pass and got 3 more mph than without the coldair intake.

improved 3mph. with about 10 bux the cost of the tubing! I think its very worth it.

only down side I see with this, is water may get sucked into the cold air intake.

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splash shields under/around the filter, and a well oiled K&N filter will help eliminate sucking water, one of those little filter breather things never hurts either. Can't think of what they're really called right now, it's late, i'm tired.

aem air bypass couplers.

or just dont drive in the rain, or when winter comes revert to stock.

Buschur Racing and Dejontool are among some of the DSM shops who make cold air intakes for us turbo guys (assuming you have a blow-through or similar set up). Although Dejontool says theirs won't fit on at least couple internally gated turbos like the 14b and 16g. Just FYI in the event your buddy decides to trade in his flex tubing for something a little prettier.

"AEM does not recommend the use of the bypass valve on engines equipped with forced induction (turbo or superchargers)." - AEMpower.com

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I asked about this in yet another cold air intake post a few weeks ago. I never got an answer from anyone as to why it wouldn't work (no, I haven't asked AEM about it). As I mentioned in my post, my guess is that it has something to do with the strong vacuum that's created when your turbo spools up. It may cause the valve to open even if there is no water present. Of course this probably wouldn't cause any immediate damage. However, it would mean that you'd constantly be sucking in unfiltered air.

the cold air is not going to help you much in the way of performance if you look at it the air is just going to be heated any way you go a few degrees cooler is not going to help much if you look most people just run short intakes 4 life

madkane95 said:

the cold air is not going to help you much in the way of performance if you look at it the air is just going to be heated any way you go a few degrees cooler is not going to help much if you look most people just run short intakes 4 life

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This is the stupidest thing i've ever heard. Yes the air will be heated but if it is coming in 10degrees cooler then it would come out of the turbo 10degrees cooler than normal.

Actually, the temperature difference is not 1:1. It's better than that . But let the masses believe otherwise.... need cannon fodder for Tuesday nights

tmizer said:

Actually, the temperature difference is not 1:1. It's better than that . But let the masses believe otherwise.... need cannon fodder for Tuesday nights

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[bow]Jeff Lucius [/bow] has a really nice Calculator on his site to illustrate this point

DSM90AWD said:

[bow]Jeff Lucius [/bow] has a really nice Calculator on his site to illustrate this point

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Yes, Jeff's site is hallowed ground

My CAI:

Diplomat said:

I asked about this in yet another cold air intake post a few weeks ago. I never got an answer from anyone as to why it wouldn't work (no, I haven't asked AEM about it). As I mentioned in my post, my guess is that it has something to do with the strong vacuum that's created when your turbo spools up. It may cause the valve to open even if there is no water present. Of course this probably wouldn't cause any immediate damage. However, it would mean that you'd constantly be sucking in unfiltered air.

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you're right on the money with the valve opening. the valves are to sensitive and they'd be open any time you get under boost. there is a foam filter on the valve (I believe) and the problem is more about the size of the opening (really small compared to the size of the regular filter) then the cleanliness of the air.

Here's another thread from awhile ago about cold air intakes on turbo cars http://dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=152189

this is from AEM site
Question
Use of AEM Bypass Valve on Forced Induction engines

Answer
AEM does not recommend the use of the bypass valve on engines equipped with forced induction (turbo or superchargers). Additionally, using nitrous oxide in a placement before the bypass valve is dangerous due to fuel contamination of the foam spring/filter as well as degradation of the integrity of the plastic due to the extremely cold temperature of the nitrous oxide. Nitrous can be used downstream of the bypass valve.

Heres a article about it in sport compact car

i am sorry but if you look at most or a good number of turbo car mildly mod to crazy everything you will less likly to see a cold air intake it does offer that much of a gain to have it

madkane95 said:

i am sorry but if you look at most or a good number of turbo car mildly mod to crazy everything you will less likly to see a cold air intake it does offer that much of a gain to have it

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I'll have to disagree with you.. The colder the air going in, the better the car will run.

madkane95 said:

i am sorry but if you look at most or a good number of turbo car mildly mod to crazy everything you will less likly to see a cold air intake it does offer that much of a gain to have it

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^^^ WTF

Look at two of the fastest DSMs on the planet (Shepherd and Rau). Both have their turbo inlets sticking out of their hoods into the oncoming air. Now I suppose that's just for show

A few observations.
Lets try to look at some simple things. If you know for a fact it doesn't help, please tell us exactly why. Just because "enter name here" doesn't run it, doesn't mean it doesn't help/work.
I use DSMlink and have personally logged before and after runs with my CAI.
1. PRE CAI: at a stop, I've logged temp's excess of 210 degrees and rising. Once the vehicle starts moving, temps started to drop(but slowly). It took almost 10 sec.s for the temps to drop to 203-206. Even on a cold night, it only dropped to around 97degrees.

2. AFTER CAI: At a stop light, temps were around 90-96 degrees. Once the vehicle started moving, the temps dropped immediately to aprox 78.....close to ambient temps.

Now my CAI was a little different. Mine was the box built around the filter to block the radiant heat from the engin. Now the big question is did it seem to make a difference. Definitely according to my logs. Knock retard seemed to lower and my logs/timing curves smoothed out. Everything I saw in the logs were slightly better. Was this the next best thing since toilet paper? No, but I'll take every little bit and this definitely helped.

A little more info
According to the manual
-coolant temps below 206F get full timing
-Coolant temps above 224F lose two degrees of advance
-Coolant temps between tose two lose only one degree
-Intake temps above 84F or below 34F lose one degree

Also think about it this way.
Cooler air=more dense......Can't get around that!
Now some turbos heat up the charge faster than others.
The theory goes that with certain turbos, this mod will have more benifit.
The turbo is already sucking in a dencer charge, so right off the bat you're compressing a cooler/dencer charge. This would also benifit a less efficient IC.

......again, this last part is only theory and your results may vary with your setup

I dont understand how can he not see 3 mph gain is amaizing for just mounting a intake

Well cold air intakes are ^$#&@)*% , NO there not, they are &%$^^)&_( well I have 3 more hp than you. WTF
It doesn't matter. It is personal preferance wether you want a cai. quite bickering and either do it or live with all that hot air. In the thread I linked you will find enough info about this subject. On the other hand I love to you .

oh and btw if anyone was wondering, you cannot use the AEM air bypass couplers on a turbo setup.

1. if you set the coupler after the maf you will suck in unmetered air.
2. if you are super retarded and place the bypass coupler in the intake tract after the turbo you will make a boost leak the size of texas.
3. you *Could* use the bypass coupler before the MAF, but if youre in full boost and sucking in water, the turbos gonna suck in water no matter what. if youre running 30lbs/min youre gonna suck in 30lbs of water a min, or 1/2lb of water a second(im drunk, so if this is off the sue me)