I'm looking for specific answers to my stroker questions. I'm trying to find out what parts I will need to buy if I don't buy the stroker kit. I'm using a 6 bolt 4G63 block out of a 91 laser for this project and it's going in my 90 TSI. I'm basically trying to figure out if it is cheaper to buy the parts separately or to just buy the kit. My machine shop here can get me new 4G63 cranks with Clevite bearings for $200 or so so I imagine he can do the same with the 2.4 crank but I need to know which one I need for my application. Do I need the 4G64 or the G4CS crank? Also from what I've read on this subject the rod lengths are the same and I'll need stroker pistons for it to work right? I also need a recommendation on pistons.I hear good/bad things about all the major brands(JE, Ross, Weisco....) and am a little confused on what to get. I know you guys are probably tired of all these stroker questions but I've been reading for 2 days but can't seem to find what I'm looking for. Any help will be much appreciated because I'm not even sure if I have this little bit of the information correct.

any 4g64 6 bolt crank will be fine

but if you buy a regrind kit, send it off to get nitrated, becasue when you machine it all the coating comes off and they fit perfect!!

This has been covered a thousand times, search for future reference - but to answer your question, any 6-bolt 4G64 or or G4CS crank will work. Rods are the same. Buy stroker pistons because the wrist pin is moved up 6mm to accomodate for the deck height difference in the blocks.

I know it's been covered several times and I thank you for answering my questions. I've been reading and searching for 2 days on this site and several others and just couldn't seem to find a straight answer. What stroker pistons and bore size's are recommended? I see SBR sells the Ross 7.5:1 @ .20 over and the JE 8.5:1 up to .40 over. I'd imagine the .40 would be more ideal considering the nature of the project but then again I could be wrong.

i personally would go with the .020 overbore, if you need to rebuild and rebore you have some room. 040 is the conventional limit of the block. so if you go 040 to start with and you need to re bore the block you have no room and will need another block.

I just got back from my machine shop. We found the 88-92 2.4L 4G64 6 bolt crank kit but his book is showing it as a SOHC??? Is that correct or is his book wrong or what? He said it will have a stamp on it that says "64" and told me to find out for sure if this is the right one. The crank kit is only $150 and thats for a brand new crank with either Clevite or Federal Mogul bearings!!

personaly I say bore .038 with Wiseco coated pistons at 8.8:1 compression. This is the setup I currently run.

you will have to clearance the block also with the new crank, the main caps will have the be ground and the #3 block wall will have a small amount of grinding to be done, Also another thing to watch for is that with some rods, or with the crank things will hit the oil squirters, I had mine removed because of this, some people dont have this problem but I did however, my block is a 90 block btw. i Highly doubt there is a difference in the squirters but I did however run into a problem with them.

Yeah I was just reading about the clearance with the caps.If I understand right the bridge between the caps needs to be ground down to clear the rods right? I hadn't heard that about the oil squirter's though thanks for the heads up. I was planning on using the Eagle's since I've read of people making good power with them and they are considerably cheaper in price than others I've seen.Fpr pistons I was considering the JE's mainly because I can get them local for a great price. So is that the crank I need of not? I read up on it a little more and I think it's the right one but again I'm not sure. The book he had didn't say what cars they were from and only had the one 6 bolt 4g64/G64B 2.4 crank so.....

yes that is the crank. the 4gcs, or 4g64 are both sohc. Even the the 7 bolt 4g64 in the 2g nt spider is sohc.