The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Detailed 2.4 4G63 stroker Info needed

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

insanewayne

15+ Year Contributor
317
1
May 18, 2004
Ladysmith,
Hey, posted this in extreme tech...but it seems not to many people go there, and i want to discuss this, so i moved it here.

Ok, so i've been dead set on doing a 2.4 using the 4gcs...but i'm on a budget to get it started...and the wicked deal i found sold on me...so i need some info on how to calcutale the amount of boring needed to put the 4gcs crank in the 4g63, and then bore the cylindes to make up the extra .1 L....also what is the formula for rod/stroke ratio, would it be better then the standard 2.3 stroker ratio of 1.5? or is piston size not a factor in the ratio.

I beleive the cylinder size must increase from the stock 85mm to 87mm... or so it says here.
http://www.pinktemple.com/stroker.html

But i don't know how to convert that to 0.xx" over ..but my calcutaions get .07874" over...

which is 2.376 L ??

These are all formulas i made up in my head...so i need somoene to post some good formulas for engine specs...or link...cuz it would be very useful for me at this descision point.

Ok I figured out the rod/stroke ratio formula....so 1.5 is all we can get out of it...i thought that cylinder diameter would play a factor...but no...so the most we could do is throw in a long rod option, (156mm rod) and get a 1.56 ratio...but really how bad is that? ...like i know 1.7 is ideal..and thats what our beloved 4G63 has....but im on a quest for torque and
fp3065 spoolage and 5-600 hp....so would i get decent cylinder filling at bdc and not too bad of cylinder wall wear with 1.56?

Also is 156mm the max we can do?...how about a 160mm rod...could that work without disturbing comfortable ring placement on the piston?...

I realize that .080 over is pushin it...so i'm guessing most of you are going to say no way....but how bad would .060 over be for reliabilty on a street monster.

Thanks guys

Wayne
 
Bore what to put the crank in!! and bore the cylinders to make up .1 ltr. Use the 4G64 block ,change the pistons to a wiseco or similar that suits and put in 1G rods with Arp bolts and your away thats the way to go!!
 
I am pretty sure the crank fits in the block, I have not heard of anyone needing to bore it.
 
no no no ....LOL..shit.

I want to try to get 2.4 L out of a 4g63...like with the 4gcs crank you get 2.3...so if i were to bore the cylinders...then maybe use .060 over pistons...could i get the .1 litre...safely....whats the max u can bore on the 63 with out comprimising reliability...

And my plan has been to use the 4GCS...but money is an issue now...so i already have a ruinning 63...so if this is possible i might give it a shot.

Thanks

Wayne


P.S.....ill probably just end up being patient and saving up a lil extra to do the 4GCS as i had origianally planned....so this thread isnt just about gettin 2.4L out of a 4g63....I also want to know more about rod/anlges....what is considered horrible...1.7 is ideal...so whats terrible?....can we get any better then 1.56 on the 2.4....like 160mm rods?...

Thanks

Wayne
 
so is this possible?

Im guessing its not without sacraficing strength...

So is there a way too increase the r/s ratio better then 1.56?...I've heard that even that 156mm rod can comprimise piston strength on the top of the piston but is something 160mm possible?..

How bad is 1.56 really..like what is considered horrible? 1.4? ...

Anyone?...

Thanks

Wayne
 
150 views...and 2 replies....cummon guys i need some rod/stroke ratio info here...i've searched (and still am right now) but cant find what im looking for.

ANYONE?!
 
Race motors might like long rod motors but I'm on the side of short rod setup for pump fuel.Guess it all boils down to what you're using it for.
 
Yeh, it will be getting nothing but 94 octane...why do u say that shorter rods are better for street use tho?....longer rods decrease sidewall wear, and increase cylinder filling...(at a minor degree)

And yeh actually i've been reading many good articles on dsmtalk in the last few days, thanks.

So no one knows if 160mm rods are possible...
 
New question, whats the max overbore i can run on the 4GCS without compimising reliablitly on a street driven car?

Anyone got the formula for displacement (per cylinder)

Thans

Wayne
 
Why bother going through all that? Why bore over .060 +? Just get a 4G64 Block, 4G64 Crank and put a 4G63 head on it. Done.
 
Yeh...i know that, that was my original plan, and probably what i'll end up doing, except for that gives you a rod to stroke ratio of 1.5...not to great...are 4g63 has a r/s ratio of 1.7...quite favourable.....The reason im asking this question it because i am looking into using the destroked 2.1 setup which runs a 1.84 rod ratio...this thing revs to 10K and loves every bit of it.....but 2.1 isn't good enough for me..i want that torque and trubo spoolin ability that the 2.4 has....so i'm trying to figure out how much more we can get out of the block my over boring....Anyone?....and i want it to have no reliabilty issues on 25 psi.

Thanks guys

Wayne
 
Defiant!...im glad you've joined my thread...out of everyone who've posted so far, i'd think you might have a good answer for me? or a good link?

Thanks

Wayne

P.S....if my only option is sleeves...arent they big $$$...and what's the most i could do with out them...even tho sleeves are iron, and so are our block...it there a point to that, or are they just stonger...i've only heard of sleeves in aluminum block applications.
 
Hey guys, another question for ya'll....i just found a 4gcs at the junkers for 50$....he was like 100$ man, then i was like what if I undo it all myself?...Then he's like uuh #### 50 bucks....so he's prolly just thinkin, it's a peice of shit hyundai, get rid of it...now he sais its as is...and he doesn't know whats wrong with the car...but its 50$ and im gettin it machined for the pistons and every checked for clearances etc so, i should do this right, like it's a steal and a half im thinkin?

Anyone got anything to say about this...

It has 200,000 km's on it..but I'm getting it bored + honed and crank checked and prolly micropolished...so i should be good to go....shit it's got 1g big rods it in either way...those are worth 50$....

Thanks

wayne
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top