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clutch not disengaging please help

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Check your clutch fluid. If its good you might have either a bad master cylinder or slave cylinder.
 
jab-619 said:
i just put a new transmission in new clutch,new eveything.now the clutch will not disengage :confused: what the hell?some one please help. :barf:


I got mine together yesterday and have the same problem as you. Looks like the tranny will have to come back out.
 
jab-619 said:
do you know what the prob is? I realy dont want to take it out.

Ok, I've done some research and here is what I've come up with. The act clutch and flywheel are brand new so I would doubt there is a problem. The clutch fork seams to be in the right position. and their is no air in the clutch line.the fork is moving but I'm not sure it was enogh so I made a longer slave rod and that didn't help. the master rod is all the way out as well. So now it has come down to a worn clucth pedal assy.When I push the pedal down the nut on the end of the shaft turns so I think thats the prob.The wierd part is that it was fine before and It's the same cluth just differnt flywheel.

Bob
 
311GSX said:
Ok, I've done some research and here is what I've come up with. The act clutch and flywheel are brand new so I would doubt there is a problem. The clutch fork seams to be in the right position. and their is no air in the clutch line.the fork is moving but I'm not sure it was enogh so I made a longer slave rod and that didn't help. the master rod is all the way out as well. So now it has come down to a worn clucth pedal assy.When I push the pedal down the nut on the end of the shaft turns so I think thats the prob.The wierd part is that it was fine before and It's the same cluth just differnt flywheel.

Bob
I haven't checked my pedal assembly yet. I just read on TRE site that you have to use a act flywheel with a act clutch. You said it's a new flywheel/clutch. But then you say it's same clutch just different flywheel?
 
It is a new ACT clutch and flywheel, when I said same clutch I ment 2600, not actually the same one.

Bob
 
I had disengagement prroblems also, and tried everything, but yesterday my clutch fork broke. I think it bending was causing my problems. It would be good for a while, then get worse. Might be worth checking out
 
Guys, Any updates?

I'm have the same problem. I spun a bearing in my 2G FWD tranny and I needed a rebuild. They rebuilt my tranny and since the tranny was out, why not change the clutch? So I put in an ACT2100 and OEM release bearing. They buttoned everything back up just to find out that the clutch won't disengage. So they pulled out the tranny and decked / machined my stock flywheel. Put the rebuilt tranny back in with the same, new ACT2100 and still no luck - won't disengage. They are starting to think it's the ACT? They're gonna try to put in an OEM clutch and see what happens.

Any ideas?
Peepers
 
I using the RRE SS clutch line. I never checked the slave cylinder, but the 1/4" longer rod seems like a good idea .... wonder if it's needed with a 2100? Taboo's site says it's needed with the 2600, but what about the 2100?
 
just to let you know, the disengaugement problem was a defective pressure plate. The car was fine until I installed the new clutch, ruling out everything else leaving the clutch too blame.

Bob
 
311GSX said:
Ok, I've done some research and here is what I've come up with. The act clutch and flywheel are brand new so I would doubt there is a problem. The clutch fork seams to be in the right position. and their is no air in the clutch line.the fork is moving but I'm not sure it was enogh so I made a longer slave rod and that didn't help. the master rod is all the way out as well. So now it has come down to a worn clucth pedal assy.When I push the pedal down the nut on the end of the shaft turns so I think thats the prob.The wierd part is that it was fine before and It's the same cluth just differnt flywheel.

Bob

I could have wrote this myself, except my 2600 has 800 easy miles on it. Installed with RRE flywheel, new TOB, shimmed perfectly. When I parked it in Dec. everything was fine. I fired it up a couple of weeks ago and it grinds going into all gears. Installed a new master, slave, SS line and ran 2 pints of fresh fluid though it, no bubbles. The master rod is adjusted perfectly, ie the master releases pressure when released. My pedal assembly has almost no play. If that's not bad enough I took it out today and it slips so bad I was killing mosquitos with all the clutch smoke. So the trans gets dropped tomorrow and we will see what an ACT 2600 with 800 miles and no launches looks like.

This is lame. Am I going to have to do this again next year too? :mad:

Bob, did ACT make good on the PP? I got mine from RRE.
 
311GSX, if the ACT pressure plate was to blame, how could you prove that? Did you go back to ACT and tell them your issue? What pressure plate did you install after?

I just find it hard to beleive that alot of us are having the same problem with ACT kits 2100/2600. I would assume that if one ordered a brand new kit, one shouldn't have to worry or second guess if the kit is good or not? My tranny's been out twice now, and I'll be pretty pissed off if the culprit is a brand new deffictive pressure plate. Who's gonna recover my mechanic labour charges?? ACT?? I don't think so ...... I'm going to tell my mechanic to try the 1/4" longer rod trick before pulling the tranny out again. If that doesn't work, in goes an OEM or RPS kit ......
 
Tried the 1/4" longer slave shaft. All it does is give you more master rod adjustment. Did Taboos mods to the new master. It's definitly the clutch.
 
I got the 1/4" longer rod.And did everthing it says on Taboos site and it still wont work.I got a new slave.It can't just be ACT.Because I have a Zoom(shit).I though it was the flywheel.But peepers machined his and he has the same prob. PEEPRES did you have it machined to .608-.610? Thats what RRE says it should be. This Sucks :thumbdown I'v been down 2weeks
 
I don't know what they machined my flywheel to?? .... but this shops knows DSMs - so I'm sure he decked it to spec.
I was also told that all the 1/4" longer rod trick does is only applies build pressure and cause crankwalk. So he's not going down that road. He's shimmed the pivot ball, and does that to all clutch jobs he does - save's him from pulling out the tranny later - if needed.
So looks like all fingers point back to the pressure plate ...... I should get an update today or tomorrow on what the latest verdict is ..... I think he's going to scrap the ACT and put in an OEM or something close to it ......
If it's any consolation ... My car's been in the shop for 2+ weeks as well ......
 
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