ok guys i had the head on my car rebuilt using the stockused valves,now is their a certain amount of torque the head is tourque down to, because at 4000 to red line the engine has a bad rattle. also upon puting the valves back in he grinded them to make it fit. im so

now is their a certain amount of torque the head is tourque down to

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Are you serious? Of course there is a certain amount of torque you have to torque the head to. How much? I can't think of it off the top of my head but you should look it up. Also I hope you torqued it down in the correct sequence or you could have some warpage.
I couldn't tell you if improper amount of torque is the result of the engine rattle but I suppose it could be a posibility. If they are the original valves, why would you or someone grind them down? Did you have any head work?

Did you use the stock head bolts? Did you put in ARP head studs? I need more info on
what you exactly did. If you ground down the valves too much you may need to
replace ALL the valves. BTW I think you have to tourque the stock head bolts to 80lbs
max But I could be wrong check =====> Vfaq

yea man there's a particular order as well as tightness. Mitsu recommends it done in a few stages too just to insure no leaks.

mitsufrkr said:

ok guys i had the head on my car rebuilt using the stockused valves,now is their a certain amount of torque the head is tourque down to, because at 4000 to red line the engine has a bad rattle. also upon puting the valves back in he grinded them to make it fit. im so

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Whoa.

Here is probably what you should have done.....................



Front of engine = (Timing belt side)
Tighten the cylinder head bolts in the sequence shown.
Each bolt should be tightened in two to three steps
torquing progressively. Tighten to specified torque in
the final sequence.


-
<2.0L DOHC Engine>

ft.lbs.
Cylinder head bolt 6 5 - 7 2


< front of engine

l-------------------------- l
l 8 6 1 3 9 l
l 0 0 0 0 0 l Torque sequence
l l
l 0 0 0 0 0 l
l 10 4 2 5 7 l
l--------------------------l

Each bolt should be tightened in two to three steps, a little at a time
ie....30lb 50lb then 65-72lb

ok first , i did not do the work. a repair shop called B&B auto repair in Tarrent Alabama did the work. me of course did not know how to do the repair or else i would have done it but im learning. tried to take it to dodge but the said they wouldent work on it because the car is a 92 and is over 10years old. so please lighten up, dose anyone in bham, AL know a shop i could take it too? the reason the vavles were grinded down was he put the head on and he thought he did it right the car was missing and you could hear the vavles bending . he got the old vavles out my org head and tried too install them him self and grinded the to make them fit ultimatly the head was sent to a mechine shop to be rebulit with the org parts. the head bolts are stock. replaced head gasket and it ran but had a rattle at 4000K to red line also their is a loos of power. if it needs new vavles were can i get some or just agood newly rebuilt head alltogether.

Go pee on the side of the shop and take your car to a different one.

Sorry.........I took it that you were doing the work since you were asking about torque values......................

hahaha pee on the shop thats about the best idea ive heard. It sounds like ur mechanic might be a hack. DSM WHAT!

dose any of you guys know were i can go and get a good head with the cams ,lifters, rocker arms,cam gear and all the internal stuff already their, just want a stock replacement. a good web adress would be nice.

www.cylinderheads.com. that is where I got mine. They have 2 different ones listed one does not come with rockers or lifters but the more expensive one comes with everything.