If you have any problems with wheel hop, I would recommend upgrading to some prothane mounts if you dont mind a little extra engine vibration. You'll just nee to jack up your engine and do one mount at a time. Are you planing on changing just one mount or all of them. If just one, which one? And are you putting a stock replacement one in or some aftermarket ones?

you will need to support the engine but all in all it's pretty easy. install time for that one is about 2hrs if you don't have any idea what your doing. It took me an entire day to do all 4 with aftemarket bushings and i didn't ahve a clue. Good luck!!

Speed127 is right it will take a while.

On my 91 eagle tsi awd. The drivers is pretty strait forward. I picked up the whole kit, I think it was from Nopi. Anyway, the drivers is direct fit. The transmission may require a little of the old left behind for a tight fit (I can not remember for sure) , The fire wall you might have to leave 1/8 to 1/4 inch ring of the old mount in, the diameter of the new will not be large enough(please measure again its been a while). The radiator, well the 90 to 94 have 2 different style of mount there is the flat bracket and the L bracket mount. In either case it uses the existing mount so DO NOT remove it. Mine had the L bracket and with the mount inserted took a little bit to slide the block bracket over and insert the bolt.

PB blast all bolts and soak for two days prior before starting.
I used a drummel to remove the old mounts. Prep yourself for the biggest mess. The high speed and heat of the drummel turned the mounts shavings into a black syrup that got on everything. In the end I used a whole can of WD40 and a bunch of rags to clean my tools and work area, What a mess.

The vibration at idle will be unbearable for the first few weeks, but like everything else you get used to it.
If your going to do all of them do them one at a time and have a safe way to keep the engine up it will drop about an inch or two.

Good Luck.
PM me if I can help.

It shouldn't take more than a few hours to do and it's not that difficult. I've done about 6 sets and it has never taken me more than 2 hours.

If your mount is cracked then you can't use inserts, you have to either
a: put an uncracked mount in then put inserts in.
b: replace it with total replacement from prothane.
c: fill mount with window weld. http://www.raktron.com/misc/mt.htm or
d: put peices of cutting board in the holes in the mount. http://www.turbomirage.com/mountinserts.htm
I put the cutting board in and then filled it with window weld.

I'd love to do a write-up on this, but I don't have any motor mounts to do the work to. If anyone would be interested in shipping me their motor mounts, I would gladly perform the surgery and ship them back. Just PM me.

99gst_racer said:

I'd love to do a write-up on this, but I don't have any motor mounts to do the work to. If anyone would be interested in shipping me their motor mounts, I would gladly perform the surgery and ship them back. Just PM me.

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Let Me take a look at shipping this weekend and I will send some out. I would have figured some one would have taken You up last time You offered. I will PM for addy tomorrow or so.

Mike

If you're just doing the one, it's pretty easy. I changed mine to a prothane insert about a month ago. It took about half an hour.

Assuming you have basic tools to remove the mount (sockets, jack and stands) you will need a reciprocating saw (or some other method to cut the bushing shell) and a vice (or some other tool to hold the bushing while you saw on it.

The motor mount bushings are not solid. There is space to get a saw blade in there. With a well-lubed blade, cut through the outside of the rubber and through the bushing shell. Be careful not to cut into the actual aluminum frame (choose an area where the aluminum frame is thicker in case you cut too far. Once you cut through the shell the whole bushing will pop out easily.

I don't have a motor mount nearby but here's a sketch from memory of the general shape and cutting area.

very easy to do with an air chisel took me about 20 min per mount i would reccomend getting soild p[rothane mounts not the inserts unless you mind a little vibration

Mine were the insert kit for all the mounts. They were a huge pain since they did not fit right. But finally got it. I now know better.

I can not thank everyone on this site enough, you are a wealth of knowledge and a great resource.

Thank you

after doing a excessive amount of reading different threads of people making there own homemade inserts i think im gonna try to make some homemade motor mount inserts that i think i may get decent results ill let yall know how it goes

I already have the old mount out, like you guys said I just cut through the ring and it came out, but it's getting the new one in that sucks, it's to thick. Can i possibly have the wrong one or are they all the same size.

on the 2, the tranny and tining belt are replacements, (like wrets sketch illustrates). The front and rear use the factory mount with inserts so they need to be in good shape. If not I would repalce the front and rear mount when doing this. If a more solid mount for the front and rear are desired. Use a little windoweld (3m product) and squeeze in the windoweld then put in the inserts, then place it in a clamp for a day or two. Then you have succefully made a hockey puck out of them. There are even more aggessive routes one can take for the front or rear mount but the prothane kit is sufficent for 95% (or more) of the forum.

MMs are one the first upgrades I recommend any FWD with getting. They are cheap, effective and lowers the risks of the diff going pop thru the tranny. RRE sells them for $80-85 depending on the year of DSM. You may even find them cheaper. I have done many 2g installs and a few 1G installs. I have never had a fitament issue. if memory serves right the tranny mount bushing are the same for all years of DSM.

The install time can vary depending on how hard the rear mount is to get off. Some people have dinked with this one all day. here is a non detailed install link (post 3) http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=196012&highlight=mount

like the post states I had a bear with my tranny mount. after getting the other mounts in and doing this one last the tranny would not drop far enough to get the mount to clear the alignment pnis and the chassis bracket. I just stood on a part of the tranny and jumped as a friend wedged it in. Probally not the safest thing to do but it worked, I only had 1 other car that had such a bear on the tranny mount. (he was also a 2gFWD). Good luck on the maniuver, the first set is always a pain.

XxrusianxX said:

I already have the old mount out, like you guys said I just cut through the ring and it came out, but it's getting the new one in that sucks, it's to thick. Can i possibly have the wrong one or are they all the same size.

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They do fit tight. Try lubing them with automotive greese or motor oil. My went in just fine once lubricated (no pun intended).

Where is the best place to jack up the engine? Where do the jackstands go? If someone could just tell me what when and where to set up the jacks and stands to change the mounts.

This is the way I did mine on the Talon

http://www.plymouthlaser.com/burnm.htm

It worked well for me.

Linkizunlistd said:

Where is the best place to jack up the engine? Where do the jackstands go? If someone could just tell me what when and where to set up the jacks and stands to change the mounts.

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Place the stands in the jack notches just behind the front wheels. Although not recommended by some, most of us rasie the engine with a well padded jack under the oil pan. Otherwise you could use a hoist from above.