runs normal from 1-2K but as soon as the rpms hit around 2500 it starts to break up and misfire wont build boost etc etc.. Once she hits 3K rpms it runs normal again and pulls hard as usual. Even when revving the car in nuetral it breaks up at 2500. then goes past it


No idea we cant figure this out, everything in the ignition system is brand new...

you can look in the log and see how The graphs are just jumping up and down from the misfire.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/ecm...efore-you-ask-ecmlink-dsmlink-log-advice.html

What plus/gaps are you running?


You should learn to use the DA tables for AFR and timing. Obviously only for AFR after you get a wideband.

Its kinda hard to figure out when you're on and off the throttle like that. What plugs and gap are you running?

those were brand new bpr7es gapped at .25 in that log.

snowborder714 said:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/ecm...efore-you-ask-ecmlink-dsmlink-log-advice.html

What plus/gaps are you running?


You should learn to use the DA tables for AFR and timing. Obviously only for AFR after you get a wideband.

Click to expand...

is there a tutorial on how to tune with the DA tables? I honestly never have.

those were brand new bpr7es gapped at .25 in that log.

Originally Posted by snowborder714
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/ecm...efore-you-ask-ecmlink-dsmlink-log-advice.html

What plus/gaps are you running?


You should learn to use the DA tables for AFR and timing. Obviously only for AFR after you get a wideband.

Click to expand...

is there a tutorial on how to tune with the DA tables? I honestly never have.

Click to expand...

Try gapping them to .18

It's not a plug gap problem, this breakup happens with no boost and with boost

DSM Chase said:

is there a tutorial on how to tune with the DA tables? I honestly never have.

Click to expand...

You set the DA tables to what you want your car to run fuel and timing wise. Then once you get your airflow dialed in (via MAF Comp sliders, or VE table if you're on SD), your wideband will read what you set in the DA fuel table and your timing will show what you set in the DA timing table. The goal is to get the AFRatioEst lines and wideband lines on top of each other. Then you just increase timing until you see knock and back it off a bit.

Any ideas anyone? The only thing that is skeptical that I have done recently is cut the rear o2 because when I dropped my exhaust to install the 3 inch exhaust the o2 wouldn't come out of te bung, I have the wires nutted so they are not touching eachother, but I don't think that would cause my breakup.

DSM Chase said:

btw i see the knock, i usually run race gas on that timing table.

Click to expand...

Does that mean you were running a lesser octane fuel on the same timing table as your race gas tune? Yes, this would probably induce knock (if you didn't already know that).

Can you get a clean, 3rd gear pull from 2k to redline after zeroing out the timing sliders? We can work on adding timing back in via the DA table. But right now, you have two places to look in regards to timing and that can cause issues if you forget.


Are you running a 1g/2gb CAS? If so, make sure to check the box in the Misc tab.

snowborder714 said:

Does that mean you were running a lesser octane fuel on the same timing table as your race gas tune? Yes, this would probably induce knock (if you didn't already know that).

Can you get a clean, 3rd gear pull from 2k to redline after zeroing out the timing sliders? We can work on adding timing back in via the DA table. But right now, you have two places to look in regards to timing and that can cause issues if you forget.


Are you running a 1g/2gb CAS? If so, make surse to check the box in the Misc tab.

Click to expand...

I am running the 2gb CAS
Ok here is 2 more 3rd gear pulls, also out of the boost and just cruising you can see it breaking up at 2500 and 4500, just not running right at all. These are 24psi pulls you can see it pulling timing and running extremely low timing in the 6k range around 5-7 degrees and the value in the DA table for that RPM range is 11, thats strange. You can see it in the 2500 and 4500 range struggling to build boost.

also im posting the log from when i ran my 12.0 at the track, the car was running great that day. (may 19) but we had bad clutch issues that day hence no 11s.

In case you missed it in the 2nd post...

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/ecm...efore-you-ask-ecmlink-dsmlink-log-advice.html

Specifically, this:

Calan said:

Please start your post with either verification or numbers (in the case of a compression test for example) for each item, so we can save time and get down to business.

Click to expand...

Compression numbers are 180 across all four.
Items Changed since Breaking up problem.
 

Coil pack
Transistor
Plug wires
ECU sent back to ecmtuning all was good.
Plugs
TPS
AFuel Pressure regulator
Fuel Pump
Crank Angle sensor
Cam angle sensor

This car has seriously 0 boost leaks it will hold 35psi with no leaks and If you turn the air off to the tester it will continue to hold boost for minutes.

Ohmed out the injector resistor yesterday, it checked out good.

Have you checked for exhaust leaks?

no exhaust leaks... Its in the tune im almost positive i cant figure it out for the life of me though, I mean EVERYTHING i can think of that would cause it Mechanically has been replaced. The only other things im thinking it could be are: The TPS is somehow maulfunctioning, The crank is walking causing the Crank trigger plate to move inbetween the Crank sensor causing misfires, or i have a broke wire somewhere.

If you think it's the tune, reset everything back to stock settings and see if it happens. That'll easily tell you one way or another.

Ive already tried that, Ive completely started over several times, Ive loaded up Tunes from my fastest passes, nothing same thing on all of them... IDK maybe its Mechanical, but my Timing is dead on too, No idea...

DSM Chase said:

EVERYTHING i can think of that would cause it Mechanically has been replaced.

Click to expand...

DSM Chase said:

The only other things im thinking it could be are: The TPS is somehow maulfunctioning, The crank is walking causing the Crank trigger plate to move inbetween the Crank sensor causing misfires, or i have a broke wire somewhere.

Click to expand...

Those two statements ^ cancel each other out.


Without a WB or a MAP sensor, it's really hard to tell much about what's going on during WOT. But based on what I can see, those logs don't show anything extremely out of the ordinary, other than your timing isn't what the ECU is commanding. To me, this points to a mechanical issue in the ignition timing circuit.

Did you drop the plug gap as Keltalon suggested?

Have you verified fuel pressure under load? just a thought.

doubleclutch99 said:

Have you verified fuel pressure under load? just a thought.

Click to expand...

Fuel pressure 43psi with the vaccum line crimped.

Have you checked for shaft play?

Something seems fishy with that log from the 27th and your intake temps. They rose 50° over the course of that pull. Not sure if that's normal or not, but it sure stands out.

Also, if you haven't yet, try disabling antilag and see if it still happens.



Still unsure how people can tune without having a wideband...

Calan said:

Those two statements ^ cancel each other out.

Without a WB or a MAP sensor, it's really hard to tell much about what's going on during WOT. But based on what I can see, those logs don't show anything extremely out of the ordinary, other than your timing isn't what the ECU is commanding. To me, this points to a mechanical issue in the ignition timing circuit. Yea i need a wideband but i just dont understand why it just started doing this it was going so good... Now i have had this problem for a month.

BTW - You didn't provide any of the information we requested, such as plug gap.

Click to expand...

Yea i need a wideband but i just dont understand why it just started doing this it was going so good... Now i have had this problem for a month. i run .25 On my plug gaps.

snowborder714 said:

Have you checked for shaft play?

Something seems fishy with that log from the 27th and your intake temps. They rose 50° over the course of that pull. Not sure if that's normal or not, but it sure stands out.

Also, if you haven't yet, try disabling antilag and see if it still happens.



Still unsure how people can tune without having a wideband...

Click to expand...

Turbo seriously is NEW has like 300 miles on it, has ZERO shaft play. Hmm thats a thought i havnt disabled my anti lag in a long time, But i dont see how that would effect it.

DSM Chase said:

It's not a plug gap problem, this breakup happens with no boost and with boost

Click to expand...

Ive been thinking and Ive decided you dont know how to gap your spark plugs. Watch this

You posted the near same complaint last week then decided to make another thread? I told you to close your gaps, so did Keltalon, followed by another reminder. You are seriously not going to bother? If you're allergic to 10mins of work, there are probably better hobbies to pick from. If it doesnt make a difference, at least we would know you're considering any input offered, rather than e-wasting time.

Its been suggested you dial in your DA tables and you've got 2 links and several reminders here on how to do it, but your most recent posted log includes no changes? What gives? What sense does it make to ask questions, but consider none of the answers?

cjridert1 said:

Ive been thinking and Ive decided you dont know how to gap your spark plugs. Watch this

You posted the near same complaint last week then decided to make another thread? I told you to close your gaps, so did Keltalon, followed by another reminder. You are seriously not going to bother? If you're allergic to 10mins of work, there are probably better hobbies to pick from. If it doesnt make a difference, at least we would know you're considering any input offered, rather than e-wasting time.

Its been suggested you dial in your DA tables and you've got 2 links and several reminders here on how to do it, but your most recent posted log includes no changes? What gives? What sense does it make to ask questions, but consider none of the answers?

Click to expand...

are you kidding me? Cmon you have to give me atleast the slightest bit of credit here. How would i not know how to gap my plugs? the car does the same thing with .28 .25 or .20 plug gaps its NOT THE PLUGS.

DSM Chase said:

are you kidding me? Cmon you have to give me atleast the slightest bit of credit here. How would i not know how to gap my plugs? the car does the same thing with .28 .25 or .20 plug gaps its NOT THE PLUGS.

Click to expand...

1 - You made no mention of gapping them @ .020", only .025", how would I know? Also, if you're actually gapping @ .25", that's still probably your problem.
2 - DA Tables? I would open some logs from other members on Link and see what other members are using for values - this will give some idea how to do your own. If you're convinced this is a tuning problem, you'll probably have to make changes to your tune.
3 - Your boostest really falls off, but AFR stays the same - Id expect more from a 259. What does the boost gauge say when you're near redline? I wouldnt put much stock in AFRest; you could benefit from a WB and MAP, as previously stated. Have you or the computer calibrated your MAF - looks like changes were made.
4 - Is this still race gas still I assume with A/Fs like that? Maybe save some $$ and get a decent base tune on pump gas first?