I am upgrading my intercooler so I had to get a new j pipe. I am getting one from Punishment. I was wondering what the best way would be to put a nipple on for my MBC. I have searched and found that people usually just drill, tap, and screw a hose barb in. I would rather not do this as I would like something welded on there solid so it would have no chance of leaking.

Has anyone had a nipple welded on or part of a hose barb welded on? I don't think this is possible because hose barbs are normally made of brass and the pipe is steel. Any other ways (not previously listed) that you have done it?

My brother also thought of getting a bung and welding that on and then screwing the hose barb into there with teflon on it. Any comments on this method?

Pictures would also be of great help if you have done something like this.

Just ask Punishment to weld one on for you. What's wrong with drill and tap anyway?

Drill the hole and weld an appropriately sized nut onto the OUTSIDE of the j-pipe. Then just thread the barbed fitting into the nut and use a dab of loctite or teflon tape.

Sometimes I spout off pure genius. You're welcome.

oldman said:

Just ask Punishment to weld one on for you. What's wrong with drill and tap anyway?

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I did ask and they didn't stock nipples to weld on. This kind of surprised me as everyone says to go to them for custom work...

I don't like the drill and tap option because I do not want any chance of leaking since you'll only be able to get a few threads in there anyway. I just think there are better options out there.

JWoodley said:

Drill the hole and weld an appropriately sized nut onto the OUTSIDE of the j-pipe. Then just thread the barbed fitting into the nut and use a dab of loctite or teflon tape.

Sometimes I spout off pure genius. You're welcome.

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Ya, that's what I had said before...

Drill + tap + JBWeld = leakproof boost source.

Boosted98gsx said:

Drill + tap + JBWeld = leakproof boost source.

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I still don't like the idea that you only have a few threads catching. At least with a bung/nut you'll have more to work with.

Boosted98gsx said:

Drill + tap + JBWeld = leakproof boost source.

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+1 but I'd say tap the compressor housing. There's more material to work with.

xveganxcowboyx said:

+1 but I'd say tap the compressor housing. There's more material to work with.

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Yes, that'd be ideal but I don't want to take the turbo off. The j pipe isn't on yet so it will be easier to work with.

You don't need to take the turbo off. Just pull off the intake pipe and shove something down to keep metal flakes from getting into the turbo. Be sure it's in a spot that won't interfere with anything else.

xveganxcowboyx said:

You don't need to take the turbo off. Just pull off the intake pipe and shove something down to keep metal flakes from getting into the turbo. Be sure it's in a spot that won't interfere with anything else.

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To be honest with you, I'm scared of trying to tap the turbo. If I screw something up, I really don't have the money to fix it either.

Boosted98gsx said:

Drill + tap + JBWeld = leakproof boost source.

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+2 nothing wrong with this if you do it right.

its the most convenient if you can't/won't take the time to find a welder, and nipple can easily be purchased at various stores, along with the jbweld.

and I say negative on the turbo, too much risk there.

RedTurboEclipse said:

and I say negative on the turbo, too much risk there.

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Depends on which turbo.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showpost.php?p=151181520&postcount=15

RedTurboEclipse said:

+2 nothing wrong with this if you do it right.

its the most convenient if you can't/won't take the time to find a welder, and nipple can easily be purchased at various stores, along with the jbweld.

and I say negative on the turbo, too much risk there.

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Thanks for the response. I would have no problem finding a welder, but where would I be able to purchase a nipple?

Boosted98gsx said:

Drill + tap + JBWeld = leakproof boost source.

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This is exactly what I did and it's held without leaking for about a year at 21psi. I got my nipple at HDR (Home Depot Racing)

I just welded a regular nipple on mine, cost me like $5.00.

I went to Autozone and purchased a zinc coated doubled end nipple. It looked like brass at first until I saw it looked like zinc and took a magnet to it. I just cut it and welded it on. Easier than tapping etc I thought.

Drilling & taping the pipe for a 1/8" NPT barbed fitting, will actually be pretty secure, even though it only goes in a few threads. If your looking for a SS fitting, most industrial hydraulic hose supply stores will carry them. When I did my old jpipe for the evoIII, I drilled & taped the pipe, then threaded the fitting to where I wanted it (brass fitting) & then silver soldered it in place. This will work just as well as welding in this location & don't have to worry about using a brass fitting.

When helping my friend install his 16G he needed some boost source. So we just got either a nipple welded onto his LICP.

I would just tell Punishment Racing to weld a nipple on for you.

Thank you everyone for the different options that you have suggested! I have a few more to consider now.

Also, I just talked with someone at Punishment and they told me that it'd be a good option to drill, tap, and JBWeld if I was using the compressor housing but would be better to weld directly if going onto the j pipe. So, now I have some more thinking to do as to which method might be better (seeing as a lot of people here like the tap method), easier, or cheaper to do.

Thanks everyone!

Anyone know where a stainless nipple can be found to go on the j-pipe?

I know that you can get aluminum pipe to use for a nipple at any hobby shop where they sell rc cars and trains...they might have stainless also.
I believe you want aluminum though because the j-pipe from punishment is aluminum. Make sure to wrap the top portion in exhaust wrap so that it doesn't melt near the exhaust manifold...it can and will happen if you don't.

Welding a little piece like that shouldn't cost more than $10, make sure there is no leaks or bubbles in their welds!

Here are a few sites I found selling ss nipples:

http://www.plumbingsupply.com/stainles.html
http://www.plumbingproducts.com/stainles.html (looks the same as above link but different company name)
http://www.midlandindustrial.com/index.php?p=flash_catalog/onlinecatalogpage&wd=no&cd=no&page=192

And if you have a local plumbing shop, I'd ask them. If they don't have them, they may be able to get them in.

m_0ney_pit said:

I believe you want aluminum though because the j-pipe from punishment is aluminum.

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Now the person at Punishment told me either mild or stainless steel for the j pipe. But if you were doing the compressor housing, to use aluminum (unless your housing is made of stainless steel).

If your too lazy to drill n tap you can purchase a LICP from Road Race engineering for $25 bucks...

I intially bought a nipple fitting at acehardware for 1/8 NPT fitting which was very difficult

Tap and drill is fairly easy. I just tapped my water housing with 1/8 fitting for my temp gauge probe. Just wrapped with teflon and no leakage...
You want to find 1/8 -27 NPT tap for 8.99 at loews or HDR

EnticivEclipse said:

If your too lazy to drill n tap you can purchase a LICP from Road Race engineering for $25 bucks...

I intially bought a nipple fitting at acehardware for 1/8 NPT fitting which was very difficult

Tap and drill is fairly easy. I just tapped my water housing with 1/8 fitting for my temp gauge probe. Just wrapped with teflon and no leakage...
You want to find 1/8 -27 NPT tap for 8.99 at loews or HDR

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I already bought an SSAC FMIC and Punishment j pipe so I have all the piping I need. I am comfortable with tapping so that is not an issue.

snowborder714 said:

Here are a few sites I found selling ss nipples:

http://www.plumbingsupply.com/stainles.html
http://www.plumbingproducts.com/stainles.html (looks the same as above link but different company name)
http://www.midlandindustrial.com/index.php?p=flash_catalog/onlinecatalogpage&wd=no&cd=no&page=192

And if you have a local plumbing shop, I'd ask them. If they don't have them, they may be able to get them in.




Now the person at Punishment told me either mild or stainless steel for the j pipe. But if you were doing the compressor housing, to use aluminum (unless your housing is made of stainless steel).

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Straight from their site...

Here is our new fully tigged welded aluminum j pipe for your fmic, perfect for those of you running a 14b, 16g etc