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Help/Advice: SS Fuel Line Install

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Spoolin98 said:
I used permatex 2 thread sealant on the threads of the blue fitting before tightening it down onto the red fitting (end of the ss line). Is this bad? Whats the negative side of using thread sealant? Is it actually going to harm something, I can only assume it will help assure it doesn't leak.
Think about where this sealant is going. Its going into the red fitting but then after that, what about the excess sealant? Its just sitting there at the end of the fitting, dangling away. Waiting for the right time to bust off and travel straight up your hose, and if your lucky your filter will catch it, but if not, its going right into your injectors and may clog them. Seriously, please remove the sealant.
 
AN Fittings seal at the 37* head of the fastener not the threads like an NPT fastener so sealants should not be needed. As Dan mentions above using sealants could contaminate the sealing surfaces or worse.

I've never used any and have not had any leaks with my several AN / SSLine installs :dsm:
 
Spoolin98 said:
What exactly is the 37* head of the fastener?

The male AN fitting has a 37* "/ \" shape at the end and the female has a 37* "|/ \|". When the two are correctly torked together the sides seal like "|// \\|". If you put stuff on the threads you may not be able to get 100% seal at the proper points :dsm:
 
DSM90AWD said:
The male AN fitting has a 37* "/ \" shape at the end and the female has a 37* "|/ \|". When the two are correctly torked together the sides seal like "|// \\|". If you put stuff on the threads you may not be able to get 100% seal at the proper points :dsm:

OK thanks for the explanation, thats what I thought it was. As for the sealant, I don't see how it could even get anywhere inside the line. If you put it on the male threads and thread it in, the excess sealant pushes up out of it, not into the line, but I'll remove it anyways. Thanks again.
 
Does anyone know of someone with a 2g that installed a ss line? Id like to see some pictures of where they brought the line up between the firewall and the subframe. I have an idea of where I want to run it, but I want to make sure.

Thanks for all your help once again guys. I found someone on here thats parting out a 2g, hopefully I can get the plastic clamps off of him.

Any suggestions on what type of fuel filter I should get? I saw yours Dan, its HUGE! Why such an enormous filter? I need to buy a filter and figure out where I'm mounting it before cutting the other end of the line. Thanks...
 
Spoolin98 said:
Any suggestions on what type of fuel filter I should get? I saw yours Dan, its HUGE! Why such an enormous filter? I need to buy a filter and figure out where I'm mounting it before cutting the other end of the line. Thanks...
It was cheap, and has a cheap quick change 10 micron filter. I don't realy care what size it is, IMO bigger is better. More surface area to filter through. This one is made by Allstar and had -8an outlets, but I used adapters to bring them down to -6an.
 
John, nice write up, very clear and detailed.

John and Dan, I have to thank you both for all your help once again. Your both quick with responses and I appreciate everything. :thumb:
 
Ok I have been doing some research and was wondering what you guys think of this. Heres my plan. I already have a Aero FPR w/gauge for the engine bay. I'm going to order a autometer fullsweep electric fuel pressure gauge with sender for the inside of my car. I have a few questions. First off, does it matter whether the fuel pressure sender is installed before or after the fuel filter? If so, why? My plan is to have the ss line go into the fuel filter, then have a -6 female to -6 male with 1/8 npt port adapter come out of the fuel filter and connect to the ss line thats going to run to my fuel rail. Attach the fuel pressure sender to the 1/8 port. Kind of like the picture attached (took from a write up I found), accept I want to put the fuel pressure sender after the fuel filter. This way I'll have a gauge in my engine bay and in my car, also one before the rail and one after the rail. My next question is, does anyone have a link to the write up on how to tap the fuel rail for a -6 fitting? I know I saw it somewhere on here or vfaq, but now I cant find it.
 

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allgripnoslip said:
http://www.stevetek.com/R-FuelSys2G.html

you can buy a rail adapter for the feed or return line in -6AN or -8AN sizes from www.srvperformance.com $13.99 each

Thats the write-up I got the picture from and what I'm going by, thanks. As for the rail adapters, I'm aware of them, but I was under the assumption that tapping the fuel rail with npt and threading a AN fitting in would allow the most fuel flow. I assume the adapters have to downsize to fit into the stock bore in the fuel rail, correct me if I'm wrong? I would still like the write up on how to drill and tap the fuel rail for AN fittings. I think buying two npt to AN fittings would be cheaper than two adapters for $14 each, and drilling and tapping isn't a problem.
Thanks guys.
 
The rail adaptors have an o-ring seal. AN fittings do not seal on the threads, NPT do. So if you wanted a seal by thread alone, you'd need to drill tap for an NPT size and get an NPT to AN adaptor. You could also just weld an AN fitting to the end (used to be all the rage before the rail adaptors became avaiable).

The Adaptors I got had a visibly larger ID passage than the stock rail ends. Unless you are running larger than -6AN lines, the $14 adaptors are IMO the best (and safest) way to go :dsm:
 
DSM90AWD said:
The rail adaptors have an o-ring seal. AN fittings do not seal on the threads, NPT do. So if you wanted a seal by thread alone, you'd need to drill tap for an NPT size and get an NPT to AN adaptor. You could also just weld an AN fitting to the end (used to be all the rage before the rail adaptors became avaiable).

The Adaptors I got had a visibly larger ID passage than the stock rail ends. Unless you are running larger than -6AN lines, the $14 adaptors are IMO the best (and safest) way to go :dsm:

John,
Thanks for the advice. My plan was to tap the fuel rail with NPT and use a NPT to AN adapter, like you said, only because it would be cheaper and I thought it would have less resistance to flow. I just don't know what size NPT to tap it with? I know I saw a write-up for it awhile back, but now I cant find it. Maybe I'll just go with the adapters like you mentioned since they would be the easiest route. Do you know if the fuel pressure sender should be before or after the fuel filter? Thanks again for your help.
 
John,
If you don't mind me asking, what exactly is the purpose behind parts A and B? I was planning on just running the fuel line from the tank directly to the filter, without the parts you mentioned, A and B. And part D, does that allow you to swivel the line with the filter mounted? Thanks once again.
 

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I would either space that away from the firewall or pad that s/s hose so it doesn't rub on the brake line.

S/S braiding is a great abrasive.

Hal
 
DSM90AWD said:
I would put it after the filter. Good luck and post back pics :dsm:

Correct me if I'm wrong but would'nt you want the pressure sender at the AFPR? The reason I say this is because of the importance of fuel pressure under boost. That wonderful 1:1 ratio. Reading after the fuel filter will only give you line pressure.
 
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